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Tbird driveshaft

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cobraii78

Donation Time
I searched our local wrecker and they have a few tbirds in stock, so I thought I'd go this upcoming Saturday to get a driveshaft for my v6 conversion project. Before I get out there and possibly bring home the wrong one, I was hoping I could get info on which years work for this, plus anything else I need to know.

Thanks,

Mike
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
'88 - '90 T bird.... is what has been recommended.


I received one in a package I bought, took a couple of Alpine drive shafts, to a Driveline shop and had them build me a couple of drive shafts for my cars undergoing modifications.

I only had one front yoke (tbird) but the Shop was able to provide all that was needed to make me two units. Actually they made two shafts, the Alpine (rear) and the Front yokes were welded to new tubes then balanced for about $150.00 each.

Suggest you get the measurements (distance between your T5 and yoke on the rear axle) for your car before going too far.

I believe you can get all new stuff provided from a Driveline Shop except of course the Alpine rear yoke. A new yoke is cheaper than looking for a used t-bird drive shaft. IMHO.
 
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cobraii78

Donation Time
Thanks Dan,

I know my local wrecker has a 90 tbirds in stock so I was going to go check it. For $34 bucks I thought it was worth it. Hey Dan, how do you find the alpine rear axles are with the v6 conversion? I already changed out my keys to hardened ones. I thought about getting an 8" shortened but up here it's hard to find someone to do it and they want big $$$.

Thanks,

Mike
 
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Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
DanR said:
'88 - '90 T bird.... is what has been recommended.

I believe you can get all new stuff provided from a Driveline Shop except of course the Alpine rear yoke. A new yoke is cheaper than looking for a used t-bird drive shaft. IMHO.
Click to expand...

Hi Dan actually you can get a new rear yoke also. When I had my drive shaft made up the Alpine yoke was not too good - the shop had a suitable replacement in stock. I don't recall what it came from - I will see if I can find the receipt and post the info here.
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
The recommended is SV because of the heavier axles.

There other options, but I'm sticking with the SV. Lots of disc brake options also. Read what some of these guys are doing to increase stopping power for their modified Alpines. Interesting aspects....
 
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Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
cobraii78 said:
Thanks Dan,

how do you find the alpine rear axles are with the v6 conversion? I already changed out my keys to hardened ones. I thought about getting an 8" shortened but up here it's hard to find someone to do it and they want big $$$.

Thanks,

Mike
Click to expand...

Pete here - (Paul A) I am running the stock alpine rear end in both of my V6 cars - both have hardened keys - no problem so far. I don't drive like I am 20 yrs old - probably a good thing! - but I have no difficulty in breaking the rear tires loose, speed shifting and getting the tires to break loose going to 2nd and 3rd. I do not have extreme hp in either one, so if you are doing an extreme engine rebuild/modification that will generate a lot of additional horsepower you may need a "stronger" rear axle.

I am sure Jose can give you an idea of what the hp breaking point may be.
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Thanks for that good piece of info.... looking forward to finding the mfg and part number.
 
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V6 JOSE

Donation Time
Hi Mike,

If you can find a driveshaft from a T-Bird, that´s fine. You will need to have it shortened to about 24" trunion to trunion, I can´t remember for sure. If you can´t find that, just have a driveline shop make you one.

You can use the stock rear end if you change out the soft woodruff keys, and tighten all the ring gear bolts with Loctite red (stud and bearing mount). The stockrear end is pretty strong if you´re not going to be doing a lot of standing starts. I would say it will handle about 180 hp without too much trouble. If you are running a full on 2.8 V6, I would recommend using a Ford 8", although it can get a bit expensive.

If you are going to use the stock rear end, you´ll need to have the shop swedge down the end to fit the smaller Alpine yoke. The Alpine U-joint will not last as long as the Ford 8" will. I used to have to change out U-joints about every 2 years, because I was always jumping on it.

Jose
 
C

cobraii78

Donation Time
Well, no luck with the '90 tbird driveshaft. Car was already scrapped. I have found an '86 tbird with a v6. Same driveshaft? If so I'll go get it this week.

Mike
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
cobraii78: I believe Paul A will provide you with the part numbers for getting a "new" shaft made and save you a lot of trouble.

I also have the part numbers in file (?) if I can locate them for a new yoke (applicable to the T5) ....

I do believe you have some time let before you will need the drive shaft....;)
 
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cobraii78

Donation Time
Thanks guys. I did see 88-90 is "what was recommended". I guess I should have asked whether '86 would work as well instead of if it was the same. As DanR says, I have time before I need one. I'll take my time and either find the recommended one or get a new one made.


Mike
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
cobraii78 said:
........ I'll take my time and either find the recommended one or get a new one made. Mike
Click to expand...

Mike, I am reading your comments as if you have been led to believe the T-bird driveshshaft will "fit" the V6 conversion. If you are of that mindset, please understand only the "yoke" is to be removed, then fastened to a new shaft with the rear piece of the Alpine.

DanR

P.S. I have some PIC's someplace that show the drive shaft with a huge collar that is also removed and discorded.
 
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cobraii78

Donation Time
Yep, must admit, from the answers I`ve had on this post, I was sure I could do this either way. 1) New with yolks from tbird/Alpine 2) Tbird driveshaft shortened and Alpine yolk.

Mike
 
Greggers

Greggers

SAOCA Vice President
Platinum Level Sponsor
T Bird Drive Shaft ('88 - '90)

Uploading some T Bird Drive Shaft ('88 - '90) photos on DanR's behalf.
 

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DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Cobraii,

A look at these PIC's (Posted by Greggers [A nice & helpful Guy]) should give a clear understanding of why the "drive shaft" will not fit the V6 Conversion.

The length of the shaft is almost as long as the car.

The front yoke pictured has a large collar that must be removed.

The diameter of the shaft itself is way too large for a good fit even if cut down.

After going through the trials of finding a '88 - '90 T-bird drive shaft which are becoming extremely scarce, I contacted a good DriveLine shop for help.

They suggested I provide them with the length (distance between the tail shaft of the transmission (T5) and the flange of the Rear assy in the car (in this case it was a SV rear assy).

Paul A has provided part numbers for the yoke to be used in the T5 application and the Alpine .

I also have the mfg & part numbers of the yoke my DriveLine Shop provided me for the shaft assy I had made. (Not to find them).

Hope this helps you and any one that might have a few questions on: Who, What, Where, When, Why and How;)

I surely do enjoy this Forum and all of the Folks that contribute:D

And a special thanks to Greggers for uploading these PICs'....
 
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260Alpine

260Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Common C4 Automatic yoke works for the Ford T5. GM TH350 yoke works for the GM T5. The part# listed is for the Sunbeam stock axle yoke. The MGB uses a 240Z rear yoke to do the same thing. I always get both needed yokes first and put the front yoke all the way in and pull out 1". Measure between for your driveline length. The MGB uses 2" diameter tubing. Speedway Motors sells a 2" tube driveline at a reasonable price in various lengths for the 1310 Ujoints.
 
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V6 JOSE

Donation Time
The mistake you made, was to use a driveshaft from a Turbo Coupe. It has the large balancer on the front and is too large in diameter to fit the Alpine tunnel. The driveshaft you´d need is from an automatic T-Bird. it doesn´t have the balancer and is much smaller in diameer too.

Jose
 
DanR

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
jose, I assume you are referring to my POST. If so, It came in the package deal I bought where a kit of yours was bought and the project fell through for various reasons.

It came in a large round tube sealed and clearly marked as a '88 - '90 T-Bird drive shaft for a V6.

Not having experience with that particular vehicle I did not learn of it not being the "right" T-Bird Drive Shaft until you just brought it to light.

Thanks much for the enlightenment.

Not intending to be overly critical, but, This is another of the reasons it would have surely eliminated some costly and unnecessary expenses if there had been some adequate Documentation on the conversion process, especially when gathering parts.

Again, thanks for the enlightenment,

DanR
 
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