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Tachometer - Electronic Conversion

Silver Creek Sunbeam

Silver Creek Sunbeam

Gold Level Sponsor
I'm looking for input on procedure (in general) and parts/kit sources for converting my original Series V Tachometer to electronic.

I would also be interested in hearing of any negative effects (if any) to doing the conversion.

I searched the forum and the only posts I saw were one from 2017 and two others from eight or ten years ago. Even three years can bring with it a lot of new technology, so I wanted to get fresh input.

I know there are guys on here who have a lot of knowledge on the gauges, so I wanted to see what they have to say.

My tach is in good shape...just not accurate...and I am considering both calibration 'as is' and the electronic conversion.

Thanks for any input that you give.
 
Silver Creek Sunbeam

Silver Creek Sunbeam

Gold Level Sponsor
Tom H said:
Yup, I'm the guy! I think you are a little bit confused. The tach in your SV IS electronic. It's no longer accurate because it's over 50 years old and the parts have aged. See my article on upgrading the tach. I can sell you a kit of parts or I can do the upgrade AND calibrate it. Send me an e-mail to tahayden42ATLive.com.

http://sunbeamalpine.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/alpine_tach_repair_rev5.pdf

Tom
Click to expand...

Not confused...just not thinking. Of corse is electronic.
What I’m talking about, as I’m sure you figured out, is a configuration that eliminates the ‘loop’...maybe I’m confused on that also and that doesn’t exist. Lol

I’ll take a look at your info...thanks!
 
Last edited:
Warren

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
Also Tom Hall, Theo Smit, and Jim Gislason who sells modern gauges that look like stock Tiger one's..
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Tod, Nice Alpine on June in the new calendar. But no, I had not figured out your issue about the "loop". The loop is a very effective way for the tach to respond the current pulses going to the coil. I have upgraded over 60 of these tachs, mostly for Forum members, and all of them are working fine in their Alpines, using the loop. There are several "issues" about the loop but all are easily handled: 1) make sure the loop loops in the correct direction- automatic if using the original wires and the plastic loop holder, 2) be sure to save and use the steel C-Clip to hold the loop in place- it requires that clip and it must be steel. 3) Be sure the tips of the C-Clip make contact with the mating tips protruding out from inside the case. Be sure the wire looping through the rear of the tach is the same wire (and the only wire) providing power to the coil. All of these are simple but sometimes missed, especially when people replace the wiring, or are not careful in removing the tach.

If you want to replace the original electronics with a modern IC chip, Nisonger offers such. And I think they use a voltage trigger, rather than the current loop. But then you'll need to figure how and where to add the trigger wire. And I doubt you will gain any accuracy compared to what the original circuit provides - when updated with modern, more stable, timing components and accurately calibrated. Be sure to look at the typical calibration report that is on the last page of my article to see how accurate there old-design tachs can be.

Tom
 
puff4

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
I think mine is the very first tachometer that you did, Tom, and it still works great. The loop tach is a fine setup and frankly there’s a lot of other stuff to improve on an Alpine before I’d get to that!
 
Silver Creek Sunbeam

Silver Creek Sunbeam

Gold Level Sponsor
Tom H said:
Tod, Nice Alpine on June in the new calendar. But no, I had not figured out your issue about the "loop". The loop is a very effective way for the tach to respond the current pulses going to the coil. I have upgraded over 60 of these tachs, mostly for Forum members, and all of them are working fine in their Alpines, using the loop. There are several "issues" about the loop but all are easily handled: 1) make sure the loop loops in the correct direction- automatic if using the original wires and the plastic loop holder, 2) be sure to save and use the steel C-Clip to hold the loop in place- it requires that clip and it must be steel. 3) Be sure the tips of the C-Clip make contact with the mating tips protruding out from inside the case. Be sure the wire looping through the rear of the tach is the same wire (and the only wire) providing power to the coil. All of these are simple but sometimes missed, especially when people replace the wiring, or are not careful in removing the tach.

If you want to replace the original electronics with a modern IC chip, Nisonger offers such. And I think they use a voltage trigger, rather than the current loop. But then you'll need to figure how and where to add the trigger wire. And I doubt you will gain any accuracy compared to what the original circuit provides - when updated with modern, more stable, timing components and accurately calibrated. Be sure to look at the typical calibration report that is on the last page of my article to see how accurate there old-design tachs can be.

Tom
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment on the calendar. I haven't received mine yet but my dad who lives 20 minutes away got his four days ago...so I'm a bit concerned.
It's kind of fitting that it is the June pic because I took possession of the car in the month of June (2019) after it had been sitting for nearly 20 years.

Thanks for the info you provided above. I guess I had just misread or misunderstood something I had seen in the past and trying to recall from my memory just added to the challenge.
I've scoured so many posts on this forum over the past year and a half that sometimes I'm pretty tired and brain fried when I read some of them. Lol

I put a new wiring harness in the car and the thicker tach wire provides the ability to make only one loop. My guess is that I will need to replace that wire, maybe?

Having said that, the tach was not accurate before the new wiring harness, so I'm sure your recommended refurbishment is the way to go.

Could you give me pricing (PM if you'd like) on the DIY kit, as well as what you charge for the refurb and calibration?
I went through the tach cosmetically, so I'm good to go on that part of it.

Thanks,

Tod
 
absunbeam

absunbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
Tom H-Since we are on Tach refurbishing, is there a way to convert an Alpine one to a V6 conversion (Ford 2.8)?
Thanks,
Al
 
P

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
Tom H said:
Tod, Nice Alpine on June in the new calendar. But no, I had not figured out your issue about the "loop". The loop is a very effective way for the tach to respond the current pulses going to the coil. I have upgraded over 60 of these tachs, mostly for Forum members, and all of them are working fine in their Alpines, using the loop. There are several "issues" about the loop but all are easily handled: 1) make sure the loop loops in the correct direction- automatic if using the original wires and the plastic loop holder, 2) be sure to save and use the steel C-Clip to hold the loop in place- it requires that clip and it must be steel. 3) Be sure the tips of the C-Clip make contact with the mating tips protruding out from inside the case. Be sure the wire looping through the rear of the tach is the same wire (and the only wire) providing power to the coil. All of these are simple but sometimes missed, especially when people replace the wiring, or are not careful in removing the tach.

If you want to replace the original electronics with a modern IC chip, Nisonger offers such. And I think they use a voltage trigger, rather than the current loop. But then you'll need to figure how and where to add the trigger wire. And I doubt you will gain any accuracy compared to what the original circuit provides - when updated with modern, more stable, timing components and accurately calibrated. Be sure to look at the typical calibration report that is on the last page of my article to see how accurate there old-design tachs can be.

Tom
Click to expand...
I have had several redone by Tom. All are accurate. All are working fine after several years. He is the best. I highly recommend him. Pete
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
absunbeam said:
Tom H-Since we are on Tach refurbishing, is there a way to convert an Alpine one to a V6 conversion (Ford 2.8)?
Thanks,
Al
Click to expand...
Al, All that's really needed is to adjust the calibration potentiometer. But I'd also suggest you replace the 6 parts that have aged a good bit. See my article:
http://sunbeamalpine.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/10/alpine_tach_repair_rev5.pdf

But depending on how the ignition is wired you may need to re-route a wire. As long as the wire going from the Ignition switch to the coil, (the white wire looped on the backside of the tach) is still going to the coil the tach will respond.
 
Kristian Jonsson

Kristian Jonsson

Donation Time
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Kristian, yes, the e-mail address is correct BUT you must substitute the @ symbol where it says AT. This is a common way to communicate an e-mail address on a public forum yet maybe fool a robot looking for e-mail addresses to spam.

But also note that my write up refers to upgrading an existing SIV or SV electronic tach. If you are looking to modify a SI,II,or III mechanical tach to electronic tach, that is another, difficult task that I do not do. I do have a spare SIV tach that pretty much matches the earlier Series tachs except it does not include the ignition and turn indicator lamps. It is quite simple to wire an electronic tach into your ignition.

Tom
 
Kristian Jonsson

Kristian Jonsson

Donation Time
Tom H said:
Kristian, yes, the e-mail address is correct BUT you must substitute the @ symbol where it says AT. This is a common way to communicate an e-mail address on a public forum yet maybe fool a robot looking for e-mail addresses to spam.

But also note that my write up refers to upgrading an existing SIV or SV electronic tach. If you are looking to modify a SI,II,or III mechanical tach to electronic tach, that is another, difficult task that I do not do. I do have a spare SIV tach that pretty much matches the earlier Series tachs except it does not include the ignition and turn indicator lamps. It is quite simple to wire an electronic tach into your ignition.

Tom
Click to expand...
I have of course used the @ symbol, but now I tried again and it worked.
No, I am not talking about the mechanical ones. I have these too, in my other Rootes car. I will send a picture of the electronic ones.
 
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