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Tach & Pertronics

Alpine Bob

Donation Time
What are the problems if any with having the Pertronics ignition & Flame Thrower Coil and my tach. I have a negitive ground system now that I have the 1725 engine installed? I have an overdrive installed also. I have an overdrive speedometer also to install. Thanks in advance.
Bob
 

65beam

Donation Time
Pertronics

it's worked fine in three of my cars for several years.no problems! i don't have to worry adjusting the points.that's a plus.and my tach works about as good as you would expect a forty something year old tach to work.
 

64beam

Donation Time
Hi Bob,

As long as you order the correct module (come in both positive and negative earth) you will have no problems. Very easy to install and once the timing is correct, no more replacing points as 65beam stated.

Regards, Robin.
 

Alpine Bob

Donation Time
Hi Robin,
Yes, I did get the correct module. I had the same setup in the car when I had the positive gnd. I got the new module when I converted to negitive gnd. My question, since the tach has something to do with the rotation of the distributor, and the making and braking of the points, I thought something special had to be done. I know this is a stupid question, but the most stupid question is the one that is not asked.:D
Doesn't the wiring on the back of the tach make a loop of some kind? Which way does it go?
 

Wombat

Donation Time
Bob

When I converted my Series IV from Positive to Negative earth, I needed to swap over the internal power connections to the circuit board in the Tacho (not as difficult as it sounds as the +ve and -ve earth tachos are esentially the same inside). The wire from the ignition switch to the coil forms a sensing loop at the back of the tach. I had to reverse the connections of this loop so the current still flowed through it the same way. There is an identifying sleeve on one end of the loop, but I can't remember whether that is supposed to be connected to the switch or the coil. If you convert from positive to negative earth, that connection should be the other way around.

All this was still with the points, so I don't know if the electronic ignition make a difference.

Hope this is a little clearer than mud.

Others of the Forum have empasised the importance of the steel "U" piece that clamps the loop in place.
 

65beam

Donation Time
tach

bob,
everybody is making this sound so difficult and it's easy.pull your positive ground tach out ,put it on the shelf,install a series 5 tach and go down the road.negative ground tachs are not hard to find.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bob,

Yes, you need to loop the wire that goes from the ignition to the coil through the "transformer" on the rear of the tach. The "transformer" consists of one or two loops on the outside (through the plastic form and also the metal U) and many loops on the inside (part of te internal circuit). Yes, It matters somewhat which direction the wire loops, but I can't say which way, so try one direction and see if it works. But also note this key step I noted a few weeks ago to Steve:

Steve,

"An important thing to note is that you need, not just the plastic form to wrap the wire through, but you also need the U shaped piece of steel that fits around the plastic form. That U shaped (or staple shaped) piece of steel is a critical half of the steel core of the pulse transformer made up of the loop on the outside and the loops on the inside. If you have lost the U-shaped piece of steel you can probably make one from a piece of "tin can" - but be sure the can is steel (test itwith a magnet) and not aluminum. And when you assemble the plastic form and u shaped steel to the tach, be sure that both ends of the steel "U" make good contact with each end of the steel part on the tach. Otherwise you will not have a good transformer.

Many people have had problems with these metal U's,but I don't think most have realized that unless there is good contact at each end of the U there will be too small a pulse transferred to the tach to make good pulse counts."

I think SS also sells this U shaped steel piece and also the plastic part.

Tom H
 

Alpine Bob

Donation Time
:confused: I don't remember a plastic piece, but I do have the metal staple looking piece. What does the plastic piece look like? Any pictures or a good discription?
We installed the new OD speedo, and does it ever work beautifully. I ran behind the wife's Caddy on the freeway yesterday and all the way up to 80mph, my speedo was right with her's in and out of OD, at least I won't have a viable excuse for the police (Steve Kirk :rolleyes: ) :D
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Bob,

There's a drawing at this link.
http://www.teae.org/tech_tips/tips/m8.html

The plastic part is not critical, but handy to keep the metal from cutting through the insulation - (could be very important as I have read here about a short almost causing a fire) .

SS has this plastic piece and the metal piece under "Instruments"

And yes, the direction you loop the wire through will make a difference. But the biggest problem is making sure that the outer U metal makes good contact with the inner metal U. When you pull off the outer U you can just see the tips of the inner U. When you install the outer metal U it needs to make contact. You can try to spread the U and then squeeze it so it fits inside the inner U with some tension pushing outward. Or vice versa. Sometimes it just wants to slide so that each leg just overlaps the same side. This has less assurance of contact.

Tom H
 

ramajon

Donation Time
my electronic ignition effects my tac by causing the tac to read at 850 when I turn the key on...anyone know how to eliminate this phenomenum???
 
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