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t5 mod

L

lillypad

Donation Time
I have a 1994 t5 that we will machine the input shaft as the info stated here on the forum
My question is how much does the input shaft need to be shortened?? I see here it says about a half inch. Is this critical? what is the exact length or amount need to take off?
Thanks
John
 
Barry

Barry

Diamond Level Sponsor
It is the front bearing retainer / throwout bearing support tube that must be shortened, NOT the input shaft.
 
MikeH

MikeH

Diamond Level Sponsor
lillypad said:
I have a 1994 t5 that we will machine the input shaft as the info stated here on the forum
My question is how much does the input shaft need to be shortened?? I see here it says about a half inch. Is this critical? what is the exact length or amount need to take off?
Thanks
John
Click to expand...

It is not the input shaft that gets shortened. It is the bearing retainer, the tube looking thing that goes over the input shaft, that needs to be shorted so it doesn't interfere with the clutch. If yours is aluminum, I would consider getting the steel bearing reatainer for the 5.0 T-5. It would already be the correct length. The diameter of the flange part (the part that bolts to the T5 body) of the retainer needs to be reduced to fit the hole in the bell housing. The pilot bearing spud of the input shaft needs to be turned down to match the size of the T5 used behind the 2.3, which is .590" from the current .668"

Here is a useful link:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/Detailed/349.shtml
 
M

mferris

Donation Time
John,

MikeH is correct that it is *NOT* the input shaft that gets shortened. However, my experience with a new steel bearing retainer (for whatever reason) was different - I did have to shorten the one I purchased.

Having just had to tear apart my conversion to cut down the steel bearing retainer (which bolts to the transmission case around the input shaft), I'd advise checking the length of the retainer before assembly.

I had purchased the following components for my 2.8 conversion with 2.8 bellhousing and T5 transmission:

Clutch Pack:
07-008 Clutch Kit: Ford Mustang, Mustang II, Mercury Capri - 9½"
Phoenix Friction Link: http://bit.ly/US2D4w

V8 Bearing Retainer:
Ford Racing T-5 Bearing Retainers M-7050-B
Summit Link: http://bit.ly/WoVwxu

On the bearing retainer - I only turned down the base of this to fit in the bellhousing but did *NOT* shorten it based on what was said on the forum.

However, after assembling the car - the clutch would not disengage and the engine was hard to turn over (and made a screeching sound when cranking).

As noted elsewhere on the forum I broke down the car again and saw that the bearing retainer was pressing on the clutch disc (metal filings on the retainer end and a ring on the clutch disk).

I shorted the tube to 4.5 in from the surface of the mounting flange to the end of the tube, which I had found someone else had mentioned on the forum.

This fixed the problem.

Picture of the part being shortened.
http://bit.ly/W2XN2o

Whether this is all works right is unknown until I get the engine started and test it out, but the clutch disengages now and the engine turns over freely.

-M
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
I just discovered that the later 3.8 V6 T5s use a steel tube like the early 5.0 V8, 1979-1993, but have the longer length of the 3.8 V6. If you are going to order a steel tube version, ask for one for a 1979-1993 Mustang 5.0 V8.

You will still need to turn down the O.D. of the flange, to fit the Mustang II bellhousing.

Jose
 
M

mferris

Donation Time
Jose - what I can say happened in mine - is that I had a T5 from a 2004 Mustang V6 and that the bearing retainer that I purchased from Summit Racing for a V8 Mustang (http://bit.ly/WoVwxu) was exactly like the one that came on my 2004 V6 T5. I could have used either one, both were steel, and both would have ended up needing to be shorted to 4.5 inches.

So even though I bought a T5 for a V8 (no year specified on Summit Racing anyway)- it was still too long. Perhaps there is a different part that I don't know about.

Regardless - 10 minute modification with a hacksaw.

-M
 
V

V6 JOSE

Donation Time
When you asked for the front collar, did you tell them you had a 2004 T5? That could be the reason they sent you a copy of what you had. When you order, tell them it is for a 1979-1993 5.0 V8, because all of the pre 1993 T5s came with a shorter collar. It was only after 1993 that the Mustang came with a longer body, and is why the bellhousing is deeper and the input shaft is longer to compensate for it.

Remember. The pre 1993 T5s all had shore input shafts, and the 1994 and later have longer input shafts.

Jose


mferris said:
Jose - what I can say happened in mine - is that I had a T5 from a 2004 Mustang V6 and that the bearing retainer that I purchased from Summit Racing for a V8 Mustang (http://bit.ly/WoVwxu) was exactly like the one that came on my 2004 V6 T5. I could have used either one, both were steel, and both would have ended up needing to be shorted to 4.5 inches.

So even though I bought a T5 for a V8 (no year specified on Summit Racing anyway)- it was still too long. Perhaps there is a different part that I don't know about.

Regardless - 10 minute modification with a hacksaw.

-M
Click to expand...
 
P

Paul A

Alpine Registry Curator
Platinum Level Sponsor
I have not been a part of this discussion but will offer my experience as it may be helpful to others considering using a T5

My T5 transmission came from a '96 Mustang - tag #238. I did not need to modify the length of the input shaft. As others have already indicated, the end (spud) of the input shaft needs to be reduced in size (turned down) to fit into the bearing housed in the flywheel. An alternative is to remove the input bearing and replace it with a bearing or bushing of suitable size, thereby eliminating the need to turn down the input shaft. Either way will work.

The bearing retainer on my transmission was too long and needed to be trimmed in order for the starter to spin the engine. I removed 5/16" from the bearing retainer tube. The bearing retainer on my transmission was steel, not aluminum. I suspect it was the original FoMoCo retainer but did not bother to verify. It was steel, it was in excellent condition. I used it.
 
61Alpine

61Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Can anyone tell me how to identify which T5 I have. About to fire my V6 for the first time and the info in this thread has me concerned.
 
gordonra

gordonra

Donation Time
Hi Rob,

Unless someone has removed it, there should be an aluminum tag under one of the bolts that holdes the tailshaft housing on.

Mine was/is on the drivers side, upper bolt. If you look through the opening in the tunnel you ca see it, but the angle makes it difficult to read.

The number you are looking for is a three digit code at the end of another string of letters/numbers.

There are tables online (or I can send you one) that will show you which year and engine it was designed for. Here is one: http://www.britishv8.org/articles/borg-warner-t5-id-tags.htm

Mine, Kelly's and several others have code 238 which is a common version for the V6 swap.

Rich
 
61Alpine

61Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
I bought mine from a rebuilder in Phoenix. I don't remember seeing the tag but I'll look today.
If there is no tag, is there any other way to identify it?
 
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