• Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.

    If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.

    Enjoy.

Switching Wheel Hubs

Bill Tubbs

Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
Searching through the messages, it seems that removing wheel hubs can be (and usually is) a real PITA.

I have wire wheels on my SV but bought some hubs for standard wheels several years ago in the thought of making the switch. Being much less than mechanically inclined, ("then why did you buy an Alpine, fool!?") I'm thinking maybe removing the wire wheel hubs isn't a task for the faint of heart. The wires aren't bad, cosmetically, and the ride seems okay, but for a 48-year-old car I'm guessing that it's chancy not having them checked out.

I'm not really into buying a set of new wheels, considering the cost.

Has anyone here pulled the hubs and NOT had problems?
 
snamelc

snamelc

Donation Time
Bill:

These hubs are difficult to pull by nature since the axle is tapered. This gives the effect of an interference fit if the proper torque has been applied during initial assembly. Some folks have resorted to pulling the axle out of the diff and taking the assembly to a shop to have the hub pressed off. I've never had to do that but my secret to success has been patience. I always leave the axle nut on but loose so the hub and puller don't go flying across the room and hit something it could harm, like my gut! At times, you'll have to leave tension on the hub over night. If that doesn't do it, give the puller another couple of good whacks and wait again. This method has never failed me. Good luck!
 
Bill Tubbs

Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
Thanks for the response, Bill. I'll mull over whether or not I want to do this, this summer. It sounds doable, but I'd hate to start something I can't finish and have the car sitting idle for another couple of years. Which is what it was doing before I got the carb/manifold/electrical sorted out recently. I guess it's the cart before the horse, but how difficult is it to put replacement hubs on? Just grease and torque?

Bill
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
I'm not sure you can tell from the front, all the measurements I have are from the rear of the hub, but since you say you bought non wire hubs some time ago you need to be sure what you have on the car and what you want to replace with are the same. Series I-IV rear hubs hole and offset for the seal surface are different from the series V so they don't interchange. Andd even though you have a V, don't assume that it is necessarily original after all these years. I can dig out measurements for the rear of the hub if you like.
 
Bill Tubbs

Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
Any measurement will be great, Mike. I don't know when/if I'll tackle this project but forewarned is forearmed! No hurry.

Thanks,
Bill
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
Dug around this weekend, for a series V hub the hole in the back for the axles is 29mm diameter. The outer diameter of the boss, where the seal rides, is 42mm. For the earlier hubs, these measurements are slightly smaller.
 
Bill Tubbs

Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
Great! I'll check the measurements out next chance I get.

I hadn't thought that far ahead, but are there other steps to the conversion beside just pulling off the old hubs and putting the new ones on? Probably a silly question... I'll scour the Forum and see what's already been posted.

Thanks, Mike.
 
Bill Tubbs

Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
bernd_st

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Did the same swap years before and it was a very heavy task. Your hubs may work but doubt that the respective puller you have will work. If the splined hubs are worn (like mine) it would be easier to carefully grind them off with an angle grinder...
 
V

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
The larger ones are for the front. I can't tell for sure what rears you have from your pics so post another showing the profile of one of your rear hubs.

Thx, Mark ..... volvoguys
 
V

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
The profile pic of the hub is the money shot. Grats, Bill! Your rear hubs are are just what you need for your Series V.

Gotta say, however, that the puller you show prolly isn't up to the task of pulling wire hubs. Having successfully removed dozens of steel/wire hubs, my personal preference is the Proto 4001 puller. Works on both types with some additional hardware you most likely have laying around your garage.

Once you get to the point you want to tackle this chore, PM me and I'll offer a few suggestions.

Regards, Mark ..... volvoguys
 
Bill Tubbs

Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
I just looked at some Proto 4001 pullers online - seems like a lot on eBay - and they look pretty similar to what I have. Are you thinking the strength of mine may not be up to the task?

It'll be a little while before I get to this but after reading some threads about the different hubs I wanted to make sure I did I in fact have the correct ones to begin with :).

Thanks again, Mark.
 
J

johnd

Donation Time
Bill - Don't underestimate how difficult a job it is to remove the wire wheel hubs. I couldn't get mine off even using a hydraulic press! Ended up cutting them off. I'd advise heeding the advice being given by the guys who have successfully used the wheel pullers they are recommending.
 
Bill Tubbs

Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
George and John...

Yeah, I've been looking at the threads each time I get the drive to do this and it looks like there is a wide variety of success stories. I've seen that Tiger tool before (on their web site) and it would be neat if someone just manufactured and sold it. I don't weld, and I don't really trust local guys to do this. The Tiger site that puller is on reads, "excellently manufactured by Dan Westland", I guess they mean it's 'excellently designed'.

When I get to this project, I hope to only do it once. I have two sets of steel wheels; one from my original SV that went to scrap yard heaven years ago, and a set someone passed along to me. I also have a set of slotted rims that were on my old Alpine when I first bought it back in the 70s, but these are extremely wide and kinda ridiculous for the car. Although I DID drive it with those things for a few years. You just had to get moving in order to turn the steering wheel. :D

Thanks for all the feedback, fellas!
 
V

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
I suspect your puller may be suitable for steel hub removal but not wire. The diameter/height of wire centers might cause clearance issues. Also, the distance from the holes and the center shoulder may also be a problem. Dunno .... I can't tell from here.

I lurked on eBay for months before I found a nice used Proto 4001 for about $50 plus postage. I've (honestly) pulled a hundred + hubs and it is will worth the coin.

Mark ..... volvoguys
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top