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Successful 2182 mile rally despite exhaust valve losing clearance!

mightyohm

Donation Time
Last weekend, my wife and I drove our 62 Sunbeam Alpine from Seattle to Sacramento for the 2015 Snowball Rally (http://www.thesnowballrally.com/). The Snowball Rally is an informal gathering of vintage sports cars (pre-1980) that starts in Sacramento and winds about 500 miles around Lake Tahoe and into Nevada before returning back to the starting line.

The freshly rebuilt motor in our Alpine performed very well. We had to drive about 800 miles just to get to the starting line, and the rebuilt overdrive transmission and driveshaft from Jeff Howarth performed beautifully. (I can't imagine making a trip like that without OD.)

We split driving into 2 days and drove to Ashland, OR on day 1 (about 500 miles from home or 2/3 of the way). Upon coming over a couple steep mountain passes and rolling into Ashland, I noticed the engine was idling low and rough. I checked a few basics the next morning and replaced a suspect spark plug, but didn't find anything obviously wrong. We pressed on, but by the time we arrived in Redding, it was obvious that the car wasn't running right - it was down on power. I pulled one plug wire at a time at idle and realized that cyl #1 was no longer firing.

I decided to pull into an Autozone and to check the valves and do a compression check. Bad news - cyl #1 exhaust valve had zero clearance. Fearing that I had burned the valve, I adjusted clearance back to spec and checked compression - cylinder #1 was 20-30 psi lower than the neighboring #2. More bad news! The car idled noticeably better with the new valve adjustment, however, and figuring that we had little to lose by pushing forward (the valve was already burned), we continued our drive.

The car performed admirably the rest of the drive to Sacramento. I checked the valves again the next morning at the start of the rally and found #1 tight again, a few thousands under spec but not completely zero clearance. I adjusted it again. The other valves were fine the whole time.

We drove through heavy rain, snow, and quite a few mountain passes, some over 8000 ft. We took it very, very slow over the mountains, often in 3rd gear (barely keeping up with the trucks), to try to give the motor a fighting chance at surviving the drive. I adjusted the valves again that evening. Cyl #1 tight again!

We pushed on and made it to the finish line and then the 800 miles back home (another valve adjustment at a rest stop in Oregon showed that the clearance is still moving, but more slowly now.)

Aside from the exhaust valve issue, the car had essentially no issues. I tightened a rear lever shock bolt once to stop a knock, and added fluids as necessary throughout the weekend. Not bad for what was by far the longest trip this car has seen in at least 25 years. Total mileage for the trip was 2182 miles.

I'm suspecting valve seat recession is the cause for the exhaust valve problems. I'm still fairly new to Sunbeams and older cars in general and wasn't aware that this was an issue before now. I had the head rebuilt over a year ago, but didn't have the valve seats replaced. I suspect that cyl #1 seat is failing. Should I have installed hardened seats? Any other theories about what is happening? I plan to test compression again and also perform a leakdown test before pulling the head off to inspect.

I attached some photos of the drive.

Cheers and thanks to everyone who has helped us make it this far. I could not have done the rebuild myself without the help of this forum and its members.
 

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Bill Tubbs

Donation Time
Wow! I wish I'd paid attention and found out about that rally! I'm about 30 miles south of Sacramento and that would have been fun to check out!

Congratulations! I can only hope that my SV will be that reliable once I get things finished this summer.
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
Jeff,

Well done on the rally... And for keeping the car going with the head issue. I also saw a towell on the dash in 1 oic.. Was that for defrosting the screen inside or catching a leak?

On the seats, you probably should have done those and guides as part of a normal rebuild. The alpine having an alloy head has harder seats than normal cars of the period and in theory should not wear much bellow 3000 rpm as most vsr occurs beyond that. However cruising an alpine at 60 mph will see you into the wear zone.

I would suggest modern hardened seats next time ( and have them do a 3 or even 5 angle grind) and stainless steel valves to protect against the modern fuels. You said the motor was a fresh build? Did you do a rebore? What pistons and rings? Or did you hone and re-ring it?
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Congrats! Glad to see you stuck with it. 2,000 miles in an Alpine is a long way, even when things are working as they should.

Keep in mind that while valve seats are the prime suspect, they are by no means the only possible culprit. On a fresh rebuild, almost anything that moves is a candidate. Cam lobe could be soft, as can pushrods, lifters and rockers. I suggest that you thoroughly inspect parts as they are removed during the teardown. You just might luck out and find it is something easy to fix.

Bill
 
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DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Drain the oil and see if there are any metal shavings?

The cam lobe as Bill Blue mentioned would be my "suspect" !

Beautiful l'il Blue! Man what a trip, sure would enjoy myself.

Best of luck with the continuation of your Alpine.

DanR
 

snamelc

Donation Time
Jeff:

Congratulations! You pulled it off! This is the result of a lot of hard work, skill, and determination. I love reading threads like this. It's what Alpine ownership is all about. Looking forward to your resolution of the valve problem.

Bill
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Drain the oil and see if there are any metal shavings?

The cam lobe as Bill Blue mentioned would be my "suspect" !


DanR

Valve lobe would have to "grow" to loose lash, this doesnt happen.

Best likelihood is that either the lash was not set correctly in the first place or major loss "erosion" in valve or seat material took place during running.

Valve is going to be trashed, sometimes they even seize in the guides since the exh valve cant cool itself without contact to the seat.
 

Alpine 1789

SAOCA President
Diamond Level Sponsor
This is probably a real long shot, but in the spirit of eliminating easy things first, is there any chance the rocker adjuster stud or the nut is partially stripped? I have had to replace one of the other when adjusting the valves - no doubt because I over tightened the nut at some point in the past. I could be way off base here, but I would think damaged threads on either might allow the valve to tighten up over the course of a long drive.
 

George Farrell

Donation Time
I'll bet on the valve seats. A few years back after driving from Minneapolis to the Invasion in Dayton, OH, I went on to Chattanooga and then to Kansas City before heading home. About 1500, mostly high speed miles into the 2300 mile trip, I experienced the same symptoms. My 1725 had been rebuilt a few thousand miles earlier, but the valve seats were original. Removing the head we found the exhaust valves had sunken well into the seats. I got hardened seats and new valves and had no more problems.

George
 

johnd

Donation Time
Wow! I don't know what impressed me most - the fact that you drove your Alpine that distance in that condition or that your wife agreed to go with you! I'm still working on trying to convince my wife that it's (fairly) safe to go around the block with me. Congratulations again - you earned it!
 

Alpineracer8

Donation Time
Very impressive, Jeff!!!! That's a great-looking Alpine you've got there!! I admire you and your wife for taking on this rally in your Alpine. That spirit is what these cars are all about!!!

Best of luck with the valve problem,
 

albeam

Donation Time
losing clearance

Well done jeff a great effort.I love seeing sunbeams used like this.
Your car looks fantastic too with a bit of real road dirt on it.

Albeam
 

mightyohm

Donation Time
Jeff,

Well done on the rally... And for keeping the car going with the head issue. I also saw a towell on the dash in 1 oic.. Was that for defrosting the screen inside or catching a leak?

On the seats, you probably should have done those and guides as part of a normal rebuild. The alpine having an alloy head has harder seats than normal cars of the period and in theory should not wear much bellow 3000 rpm as most vsr occurs beyond that. However cruising an alpine at 60 mph will see you into the wear zone.

I would suggest modern hardened seats next time ( and have them do a 3 or even 5 angle grind) and stainless steel valves to protect against the modern fuels. You said the motor was a fresh build? Did you do a rebore? What pistons and rings? Or did you hone and re-ring it?

The towel was needed to absorb the steady stream of water coming through the lower left corner of the windshield seal. I haven't done much troubleshooting but I suspect a new seal is needed. The old one looks fine but may not have been installed properly (or maybe they always leak?)

I wish I had known about the valve seats when I had the head rebuilt! I didn't realize that seats were such a common problem. Now that I've done some reading I agree that it's quite likely that at least one seat is failing.

Who sells stainless valves for the Alpine? Is this something my machine shop can source or do I need to talk to the usual suspects (SS, VB, etc)?

I just finished completely rebuilding the motor. I bored the block, installed new pistons, ground crank, reground cam, etc, etc. It's a bit disappointing that it has to come apart again but pulling the head seems "easy" now that I've done it a couple times before!
 

mightyohm

Donation Time
Jeff:

Congratulations! You pulled it off! This is the result of a lot of hard work, skill, and determination. I love reading threads like this. It's what Alpine ownership is all about. Looking forward to your resolution of the valve problem.

Bill

Thanks, Bill! Hope to get the car running again so I can park next to you at ABFM this year!
 

mightyohm

Donation Time
Warmed up the motor and checked valves again this weekend. Everything was fine except for #1 exhaust, which measured 0.008" vs. the 0.014" I set just a few hundred miles ago.

I did a compression check and got somewhat disappointing results:

cyl 1, 2, 3, 4
115, 160, 165, 150.

adding oil to the cylinders raised compression to
140, 190, 200, 180.

I also did a leakdown test. All 4 cyls are leaking thru the rings quite a bit, and #1 is surprisingly leaking to the intake and not the exhaust as I expected.

The head needs to come off to fix the valve recession issue on #1 exhaust as well as the leaking #1 intake valve, but I'm a bit concerned that the rings are not sealing well with almost 3000 miles on the motor. The spark plugs look great, and I am not consuming much oil at all despite a couple leaks on the underside of the motor.
 
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George Coleman

Gold Level Sponsor
Sounds like a head job is in order, as for the rings if you installed chrom/moly it will take some more time to fully seat. There could be the issue of the rings not being installed right but that compression test looks good for the most part. :cool:
 

alpine_64

Donation Time
I'm a little surprised at the variation of compression on a fresh build.

A few questions:
When you ran the Motor in how many times did you torque the head and at what intervals?
Did you torque the head in the correct sequence?
What pistons and rings did you use in the rebuild?
Did you reface the rocker tips?

On the stainless valves I'm not sure if the sunbeam suppliers there offer them but you can cross reference them to some ford gm and other manufacturers. If you have a good machine shop ask for their help.... That said you might want to wait till after you analyse your engine first to make sure they have done things right.
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Look into late 60s, early 70s datsun 510 for donor SS valves.

It will need some grinding work as the valves are oversized, but its probably the closest OEM fit for the alpine.
 

mightyohm

Donation Time
A few questions:
When you ran the Motor in how many times did you torque the head and at what intervals?
Did you torque the head in the correct sequence?
What pistons and rings did you use in the rebuild?
Did you reface the rocker tips?

I retorqued the head once at around 600 miles.

I followed the shop manual when torquing the head. When I retorqued it, I loosened each bolt and torqued back to spec, one at a time, in the proper sequence.

Pistons are 040 over King brand from SS. Rings are Hastings, I think they are plain cast iron - nothing fancy.

Delta refaced the rocker tips when they did the cam and lifters.
 
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