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Stromberg woes - HELP!

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
Here's the (short) story: In the fall of '06 I removed the Stroms from my Series V to have them rebuilt. Since I admittedly know zero about carburettion I gave them to a buddy who is a Holley master and he did the deed. I didn't get them back onto the car until May and had nothing but headaches trying to keep the car running. Last summer I met a guy who was into Triumph who offered to give me a hand to sort the problem out. A bent 5M metering needle, and both not being properly seated in their pistons accounted for some of the problem but it still is a PITA to start, keep running, and maintain a smooth idle at low RPM's. My original buddy says I should get rid of this British s**t and buy a real car - AMERICAN (that b*stard). My Triumph buddy has dropped off the map and I'm at a loss.

Considering the thought of another summer without my Alpine is ..... well ...... I just can't bear the thought! Is there anybody in the Central Pa area who can bail me out? I would appreciate any hands-on help possible. Help!

Mark
 

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
Mark, I'm not much with Stroms, but I'd make a diligent search for vacuum leaks. Your symptoms are classic for vacuum leak.

Bill
 

RootesRooter

Donation Time
Float levels could be off, too. Also, are you sure the rebuilder replaced the needle valves that control flow to the bowls? Just one gummed up valve will make an Alpine run very raggedy.
 

Green67Alpine

Former SAOCA Membership Director
Platinum Level Sponsor
Hey Mark, Sounds like the problems I was having with my Strom's, I never got them to work (very good).....but Jim E did a great job of tracking down and fixing the air/vacuum leak ! I'm not sure what else he did to 'em but they're now good to go.
Tom j
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
Mark: Are you sure he replaced the diaphragms? Some people who are experienced in working with SUs (no diaphragms) think Strom CDs are just miniature SUs and don't know about the diaphs. You should also check the adjustment of the choke and make sure the bar moves to its full height.
 

Jim E

Donation Time
Tom you had pretty much four problems with the 150s, the floats were off, one carb had a problem that would not allow the mixture to be adjusted, the fuel pressure was a little low and the number one issue was the intake gasket leaking.

The new version of intake/exhaust gasket is a problem, I know of at least three people who have used them and they all have vacuum leaks. On Tom's car I tried two not counting the one on the car when I got it and they were all the same, leaked like a rusty bucket. This gasket is a black material with a shiney metal side bonded to it with a bunch of little holes stamped in the metal that I guess are meant to stick the metal to the gasket material. I finally gave up on the gasket and made one out of header gasket and sprayed it with K and W copper coat.

150s are not difficult to adjust is a little easier to learn if you have someone show you. I typically back the mixture screws out 3 and 1/2 turns making sure both are out equal amount [book says 2 and a quarter I think, can never get one to run right with the screws out that little], get the car running and then adjust the balance, with a uni syn of some sort, the rubber hose thing just forget it the only thing a rubber hose is good for is to smack yourself with for getting in this position in the first place. So once balanced I tinker with the mix for best RPM then check the balance again, lock the slip joint for the throttle back down then check the balance again, maybe make some minor adjust to the balance with the carbs locked together especially if the shafts are worn. But to get the thing right it has to be sealed up no vacuum leaks, you may also want to do a valve adjust , check the timing and points if you have them, then check your balance and mixture again cause if the valves are off it will not suck and blow the same and you could have to tinker with it some more. Ther is other stuff, centralize the jets, float level get the mixture screws to zero on each carb before backing them out 3 1/2 flats but over all it is not real hard to figure out unless you have a base problem like a vacuum leak or very low compression in one cylinder, burnt valve that sort of thing and the carbs will tell you something is up because the car will simply not run right or respond to adjustments, and if you have to have the choke out to idle it is a pretty good clue things are not all they should be.

I really like the Strombergs they give very nice throttle responce, no holes or bog and with a just decent motor you can pull down 30 mpg.
 

sd_pace

Donation Time
i have been messin with mine now for about a week and finally got them workin somewhat decent but they are persnickity little things... i had a hard time with the idle and smoothness... was able to get the idle to 1k but thats all... ended up pulling the manifold to set the synk and pulled the bowls to correctly seat the needles... its pretty close but not all the way there yet
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
Jim: You reminded me of when I changed to the Weber 32/36 some years ago. After the conversion, to my horror, it would only run after doping with raw gas and with the throttle almost wide open. Sure enough, it was the new intake manifold sucking air; at low throttle opeings (high manifold vacuum) it sucked enough to make the mixture too weak to fire, while at large opings (low vac.) it ran OK.

I ended up having to add an extra gasket out of a roll of gasket material from Manny Moe and Jack. After that, no problems. The strange thing was that when I checked with a steel rule, both mating surfaces were plane, so in theory the stock gasket should have done fine.
 

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
This evening I set out to troubleshoot my Strom issues. After years of playing with cars I have learned that anytime you set out to try to deal with a challenge it is critical to have your bases covered. So, since I made sure I had good tools, a competent buddy and plenty of Fosters the evening was sure to be a success.

Turns out the problem WAS vacuum, as Bill strongly suggested. Before I got the car the PO had installed a vacuum gauge and the hose that went from the intake to the gauge was split behind the dash, about 6" from the gauge. We only came to realize this after our 3rd beer (each) once I noticed the gauge wasn't measuring consistently. After the leak was fixed we readjusted the jetting, idle and timing and threw in a new set of plugs. Then we noticed that fuel was leaking from pipe at the front carb 't' fitting. We both felt this was a repair best left for another day but not before we took the SV out for a test flogging. It's gonna need a little more fine tuning but it runs well and it felt great to be on the road again.

Many, many thanks for the suggestions I received from you guys, including the PM's. Hopefully I can repay the favor sometime.

Mark ..... volvoguys
 

Green67Alpine

Former SAOCA Membership Director
Platinum Level Sponsor
Always feels good to be on the road again. So you recommend Fosters for fixing Alpines ?:D
I've been using German beer.... could be the problem..

Tom j
 

64beam

Donation Time
Hi Mark,

I have no experience with the Strombergs unfortunately, only with the DHLA Dellortos. What I found as others have stated, start off making sure there are absolutely no vacuum leaks. Then reset both carburettors to a starting point, and balance them before trying to tune them. If they are not balanced correctly, you will have trouble. Don't have too many Fosters until you have things running well or things just go bad ;) .

Have a great driving summer :) .

Regards, Robin.
 
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