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Stromberg rebuild

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Sorry guys, I know there are a bunch of threads on stromberg adjustment and I've searched, but none have given me the spescifics I want. I have a CD FSM, but it doesn't cover the SV. Awhile back I came across an article, not sure if it was a thread or a link to an article, that gave an excellent explaination for rebuilding these carbs. I can't find it again! Could someone, please direct me? I specifically need the float height and jet offset. Once I get the fuel system, working I can get her painted, then it's just interior and I can get her on the road.
Thanks,
Ron
 

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
Good morning, all
After casting around in the site, a bit more, I refound the link to the rootes1725 site. I found the float height, of 19mm. I have a curiosity question. Before refinding the correct site, I found a couple of Triumph sites, that gave the measurement, for strombergcd150, of 17mm. Is this a function of the different way the carbs mount, to the manifold, or is there a range of adjustment, that will work? I also, thought I'd seen an acutal measurement, for the jet offset. Most posts recommend just bringing the jet level w/the body casing and backing off 2.5 turns and it more a matter of having them backed out to the same depth.
One of the carbs seems to be setup correctly, needle centered and nice clack when the piston is dropped. I'm having trouble w/the other one, though. It seems to be binding, between the piston tube and top cap cylinder/tube and possibly the piston. When I do the "drop test" it either doesn't drop, sticks, or slowly comes down, part way. I've tried cleaning w/solvents, gentle enough to not damage the diaphram. Normally I'd get some 2000grit paper and smooth them out, but have seen warnings about doing this. Any suggestions?
Perhaps my next question should be in another thread, but it seems appropriate here. If it needs to be moved, please let me know.
Can faucet o-rings be used? NAPA was out of the correct size, but I found it in the plumbing section of Home Depot.
I'd really like to not have to take off the carbs, again. So would like to have them close to right, when I put them back on. (Doesn't everyone!) Once I get the carbs back on, it's only a matter of hooking up the fuel delivery system, getting her started and I can then put tires on and get her into paint. It may just be psycological but all the mechanical work I've done on it, just isn't visible. Eventhough I know I've made good progress it just doesn't LOOK, like I have.
Thanks
Ron
 

RootesRacer

Donation Time
1) Different apps of stroms are mounted at different angles, and may even have different shaped floats.

2) No, dont trust that plumbing o-rings are gasoline resistant. Since the exhaust is directly under the potential stream of gasoline, taking a chance and having a failure is a bad risk IMO.
 

Ron67Alpine

Silver Level Sponsor
1) Different apps of stroms are mounted at different angles, and may even have different shaped floats.

2) No, dont trust that plumbing o-rings are gasoline resistant. Since the exhaust is directly under the potential stream of gasoline, taking a chance and having a failure is a bad risk IMO.

Thanks for the reply, RootesRacer. Pretty much what I thought.
 

V_Mad

Donation Time
Good morning, all
One of the carbs seems to be setup correctly, needle centered and nice clack when the piston is dropped. I'm having trouble w/the other one, though. It seems to be binding, between the piston tube and top cap cylinder/tube and possibly the piston. When I do the "drop test" it either doesn't drop, sticks, or slowly comes down, part way. I've tried cleaning w/solvents, gentle enough to not damage the diaphram. Normally I'd get some 2000grit paper and smooth them out, but have seen warnings about doing this. Any suggestions?
Ron
Many problems with CD carbs are caused by sticking pistons. IMO there is nothing wrong with using a fine abrasive to remove any high spots. Make sure you thoroughly flush out afterwards to remove any grit.
 
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