Starter Motor identification

[am99ey]

Hello all
My starter does not work anymore.
A simple clack clack from the relay, much more I can not get out.
I have opened the brush-covering-ring. The four brushes 'look' as if the still have contact to the collector. It is difficult to determine as the motor is still fitted in. I tried to gently hit on the case with a hammer, no success. I am tempted to get a replacement unit.
Unfortunately I can not read the letters/numbers stamped on the case as they are faint.
I can read something like 25()88() 12V 27() ENGLAND.
Where as () can be a zero or six or a G.

Can someone please tell me the proper model or type?
(The manual is listing Lucas M35G)

Thank you, Andy

http://vrr.dyndns.biz/Docs/OLE/Lucas/Lucas-400e-to-N40-ocrStarters.pdf

 

[afc742]

Something you might try if it quit all of a sudden is to turn the armature with a wrench and then try to start it. There is a square on the back of the starter, thats what its there for.

 

[Tom H]

Good idea to try the suggestion of rotating the starter manually.

But before replacing the starter, be sure the problem is not the solenoid (or relay as you call it) . If teh relay goes clack, but the contacts are bad, you will get no power to the starter. So use a voltmeter or test lamp to verifythat voltage is getting to the starter. Or use a heavy jumper to bypass the relay as see if the starter turns .

Once you are sure the starter is bad, you can probably find a rebuilt starter locally. Not sure about the auto parts situation in your area, but the Alpine starter is the same as the starter in a lot of British sports car made from 1960 to 1975 or so. I got one at Advance Auto parts asking for a starter for a 1970 MG Midget.

Tom

 

[am99ey]

Hello Tom
Thanks for the reply. I have tried all tricks. There are 12V arriving on the starters bolt/connector. The solenoid is working properly. The starter turns free, by hand. Collector and brushes look all right. Next step is to remove the starter. I want to have a replacement for spare.

I need the correct numbers to order a rebuild kit, and as a backup, an other (spare) starter motor. They are available here in all conditions and qualities.
Thanks, Andy

 

[Tom H]

Andy, I just had a chance to look carefullly at one of my spare starters. I canread clearly the following:

25085B
M35G 1

and off to the right a bit is stamped:

C

12V

4 67


Looks to me that we all have a M35G starter

They are 12 V starters
Mine was made in April 1967

The other numbers are just lot or sequence numbers, I guess.

Your attachement clearly shows the M35G.

Tom

 

[puff4]

Andy, I just had a chance to look carefully at one of my spare starters. I can read clearly the following:

25085B
M35G 1

and off to the right a bit is stamped:

C

12V

4 67

Looks to me that we all have a M35G starter

They are 12 V starters
Mine was made in April 1967

The other numbers are just lot or sequence numbers, I guess.

Your attachment clearly shows the M35G.

Tom

Yes, exactly right. The type of starter is a Lucas M35G and the specific model number is 25085B. Lucas often had 'type' devices and then would make slight variations on them to produce individual model number devices. For example, two seemingly identical M35G's may have different engagement gears.

 

[George Coleman]

gear reduction starter!

 

[Paul N.]

Yes, exactly right. The type of starter is a Lucas M35G and the specific model number is 25085B. Lucas often had 'type' devices and then would make slight variations on them to produce individual model number devices. For example, two seemingly identical M35G's may have different engagement gears.

. . . . . Also different mounting bolt spacing. Some are 4" and some are 4½".

 

[am99ey]

Today I got hold of a used starter motor M35J with approx. 130tkm of usage. Gear pinion shows slight wearing.
Internet is telling me this is a typical replacement unit for M35G; less of quality.
Are there experiences out there? Should I use it?
Thank you Andy

http://www.imps4ever.info/tech/parts.html

 

[Tom H]

Andy, I do not know anything about the starter you describe. But I repeat that I think you should be able to source a rebuilt starter pretty conveniently. I do not know what the Parts distribution network looks like in Europe, but if anywhere close to what we have in the US, I'll bet you can find one in stock not far away. You will not likely find a listing for a rare car like an Alpine, but look for a starter for a 72 MG Midget. Same starter.

By the way , Andy, I assume tkm means "thousand Killometers" is that correct? I don't think I have seen that term elsewhere. I would think a European would use kkm - "kilo kilo meters" I tried googling tkm and found a dozen interpretations but none that were appropriate here.
Tom

 

[afc742]

I believe that a 75 triumph spitfire uses the same starter also.

 

[Tom H]

Yes, O'Reilly's shows this same starter for 62-79 MG Midget, 60-70 Austin Sprites, 60-64 Austin Minis, 67-80 Spitfires, and 67-80 TR6 and 250s.

That's why i'm telling Andy to get a rebuilt one locally, should be easy even in Europe.

Tom

 

[am99ey]

Hello Tom
That is correct, spare parts are easy to get here, reasonably priced. Back in the sixties and seventies the roads where full of British Cars around here. I also prefer to purchase parts locally, always a chat included, new contacts to exchange knowledge (thanks to people who maintain their market existence!). M35G and M35J seem to be interchangeable. Starting this threat I was not sure about what was fitted in my SV. But now it is clear. I will install the M35J after rebuilding, and give it a try.

Yes, tkm stands for thousand_kilo_meters. Not an official measure, but more of a abbreviation, sometimes used by car enthusiasts. Very correct would be: 420'000'000 meters. Playing with this, more difficult for me is the "thinking in inches" like 3/4" .. 7/16" as I grew up in a metric world *smile*.
I just like to see my cars on the road for a long time.
Cheers Andy