Solex a No Go - Weber Questions

[65series4]

Ok guys. I got the diaphram for the Solex and guess what, it still is not working properly. Big Surprise there. The throttle shaft for the secondary is leaking vacumm. So with a heavy heart, I am going to bite the bullit and go for the Weber. So with that being said, I have a few questions. First, is the jetting the same for both the 1592 and the 1725? Some of you said that the Weber will fit my stock manafold with a few mods. What are the mods? Does the stock linkage work, or does it need a special linkage setup? Any other things that need to be changed? Thanks for any help.
Mike

 

[64beam]

Hi Mike,

The Weber DGV is the carby of choice for the upgrade and usually there is some tinkering with the jetting to stop some hesitation issues. Depending on how the carby is jetted will depend on if any jetting mods are required. As the Weber has a bigger secondary choke, the stock manifold will need to be removed and opened up to suit otherwise the secondary butterfly will not open fully. The linkage in the case of my Alpine did not require any modification and they should both "normally" share very similar linkages. Other items you may need will be a carby spacer (if not already installed), a manifold gasket and sealant and you may have to modify your linkage if not suitable.

Regards, Robin.

 

[Alpine 1789]

As the Weber has a bigger secondary choke, the stock manifold will need to be removed and opened up to suit otherwise the secondary butterfly will not open fully.

Just in case this isn't clear or sounds difficult, all you have to do is lay the Weber gasket on top of your manifold and draw the outline of the Weber opening on top off your stock opening. You will see that one side (I'm pretty sure it is the side away from the engine, but I'm not near the car at the moment) is larger than the other. That side needs to be enlarged to match the Weber. You need a rotary rasp for your electric drill and an appropriately sized sanding drum. The aluminum is soft and the rasp will open it up to the correct rough size pretty quickly. Use the sanding drum to finish it off and leave a smooth surface.

The Weber gasket is just one large oblong, while the stock manifold has separate holes for each side of the carb. I have been told there are two schools of thought here. One group says to remove the divider and match the gasket, the other to keep the separate openings. I don't know if one method is really better than the other, but perhaps others will weigh in on it now.

 

[65beam]

weber

i have three cars with the stock intake manifold. i still have the spacer for the solex between the intake and carb. i did not have to open up the manifold to use the weber. my 32/36 carbs were bought from sunbeam specialties starting maybe 25 years ago. at that time they were jetted for an MGB. they all continue to work fine and have never caused a problem. i discussed this with doug at tiger auto just a few weeks ago and he said the same thing about the jetting. as far as the linkage ,the only thing that needs changed on the series 4 linkage is to turn the tab on the rod from the firewall to the carb so the rod from the peddle can hook up.it needs turned 90degrees. on the solex the linkage from the firewall has a 90 degree turn to the bottom,the weber needs to turn towards the motor. it's a really simple change over that too many people try to make very difficult when it's really a piece of cake to do .let common sense prevail and it's a quick change over. i took my original rod to a welding shop,showed him what i wanted and had 5 made. still have a couple spares . forget all the nonsense and stories about how hard it is to do and just do it . don't worry about getting it adjusted perfect since everything on the motor will change as soon as you drive it hard . my sreies 4 still does about 30mpg and i can't remember the last time i adjusted anything on the carb! something else that is a good thing to do is to have the rod that fastens to the carb made a little long so you can drill it and use a cotter pin to hold it in place. call rick at sunbeam specialties and buy a carb and it probably will work great. if you have questions ,e mail me. i'll send you photos .

 

[65series4]

So basically, I have to port and polish the manifold to size and bend the throttle rod 90 degrees towards the engine. I have an oxy/actelene torch, so I should be able to do that myself. Right now, I have the oil breather hose from the valve cover going to the side of the Solex. Is there a connection for it on the Weber or does this get removed and done another way. I am pretty good at improvising and fabricating as long as i have a little direction. Thanks for the info so far. Does anyone know the specs for the right jet size? I have a friend that has an unused dgv carb, but I want to make sure it has the right jetting before I put it in. He is giving me a really good price, so being on SS, I am trying to save a few bucks. Any advice about that would help. I would rather not spend less up front, just to pay more in the end. Do it right the first time is always cheaper in the long run, so any input would be appreciated.

Mike

 

[65beam]

weber

if you have the original intake with the black spacer,you don't need to do anything to the intake. i didn't on any of my cars.

 

[64beam]

if you have the original intake with the black spacer,you don't need to do anything to the intake. i didn't on any of my cars.

Hi,

I understand that your setup works fine and has been for years by your post. By not opening the inlet manifold, wouldn't that cause some restriction in flow? Also, Do you have a listing of jet sizes for the DGV you installed? I would be interested in comparing what I have and I'm sure Mike will be very interested.

Regards, Robin.

 

[65beam]

weber

my carbs all came from sunbeam specialties. they were jetted when i bought them so i don't have a clue what jets are in them. being stock motors i don't worry about a restiction of flow. these are cars from the 60's and i seem to think that they run as good now or maybe better than they did when new.this could be due to having my motors in much better shape than back in the 60's. at least they don't burn oil now. any weber dgv is better than the solex. at least i have not had a car fire since i shelved the solex.

 

[old grumpy]

A new life are upon us!

Can we take our old Solexes and together, at the same time, unison, as an act of "newly-found revelation" throw them into the Atlantic sea, and/or the Pacific Ocean.
Then we sit down on the beach, eat barbeque-sausages, drink bear, and open up our newly arrived packages from the post office with new and shiny Weber carburettors.
The sun is slowly disappearing down the horizon and the sky will be full of stars!

 

[Ron67Alpine]

Hi Mike,
I've decided to go w/the 32/36 on my SV rebuild. I still haven't got the car to the point I can take it on a test drive, but have been able to get a good idle. The Weber I have was put together by using the parts from 2 other carbs and has electric choke and an electric primary idle solenoid. Using the stock 32/36 setup instructions, it's so far been bolt on and start up, eventhough I still haven't set the fuel/air mixture. I appartantly had to do more severe mods to my stromberg linkage, but on my setup, the 90* bend is away from the engine.

 

[old grumpy]

Look, look!!

Hey! I have made the same!!!