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SIII Gearbox -add oil
- Thread starter themole
- Start date
65beam
Donation Time
oil
if you pull up the trans tunnel carpet on the right side and pull out the rubber plug you can see the oil fill plug on the trans. if there isn't a plug you may have a series 1 trans. they had a dip stick on the left front corner of the trans. this was accessed by a plug in the carpet and the tunnel. you also filled the trans here. look behind the engine to see if the dip stick is there.
if you pull up the trans tunnel carpet on the right side and pull out the rubber plug you can see the oil fill plug on the trans. if there isn't a plug you may have a series 1 trans. they had a dip stick on the left front corner of the trans. this was accessed by a plug in the carpet and the tunnel. you also filled the trans here. look behind the engine to see if the dip stick is there.
themole
Donation Time
dip stick
Yes, there is a easy-to-remove cap/plug on the top left of the transmission.
There is no stick attached to it to indicate the oil level though.
Should there be?
If I add oil here at what point is the gearbox full?
This gearbox has an overdrive (that will not engage).
I am hoping it's an oil issue.
thanks
tm
Yes, there is a easy-to-remove cap/plug on the top left of the transmission.
There is no stick attached to it to indicate the oil level though.
Should there be?
If I add oil here at what point is the gearbox full?
This gearbox has an overdrive (that will not engage).
I am hoping it's an oil issue.
thanks
tm
themole
Donation Time
moving the plunger
Thanks for the oil quantity.
What I do know is the OD switch goes on and off and kicks on and off when shifting from 3rd to 2nd and back.
Not sure about the solenoid. I checked wires to see if they had fallen off.
I see this gearbox has two switches on top but the appear to be wired and grounded right.
Not sure how to test the solenoid though. If I unbolt it I should see the plunger move I am guessing.
tm
Thanks for the oil quantity.
What I do know is the OD switch goes on and off and kicks on and off when shifting from 3rd to 2nd and back.
Not sure about the solenoid. I checked wires to see if they had fallen off.
I see this gearbox has two switches on top but the appear to be wired and grounded right.
Not sure how to test the solenoid though. If I unbolt it I should see the plunger move I am guessing.
tm
Your terminology confuses a bit. You say that the OD "switch" goes OFF when shifting out of 3-4. I assume you mean the OD lamp goes off and you can probably hear the relay click. I see from the SIII wiring diagram that the SIII OD control is the same circuit as the SV, which is what I have.
The OD relay on these Alpines is a common problem. The OD light tells you that the relay is ON, but there are 2 contacts in the relay, one that keeps the relay on and lights the light, but the second contact will often not close, and that is the contact that sends power to the solenoid. The result is that you hear the relay click and you see the light come on but the solenoid is not powered.
You can usually hear the solenoid which is part of the OD unit. The relay is in the engine bay, on the firewall or inside fender on the (US) passenger side. so you can easily hear that click, but listen to hear if the solenoid clicks as well.
Tom
The OD relay on these Alpines is a common problem. The OD light tells you that the relay is ON, but there are 2 contacts in the relay, one that keeps the relay on and lights the light, but the second contact will often not close, and that is the contact that sends power to the solenoid. The result is that you hear the relay click and you see the light come on but the solenoid is not powered.
You can usually hear the solenoid which is part of the OD unit. The relay is in the engine bay, on the firewall or inside fender on the (US) passenger side. so you can easily hear that click, but listen to hear if the solenoid clicks as well.
Tom
If my description fits, there are several possible causes:
1) Bad solenoid
2) Bad relay
3) loose connections,
Easy to sort out. Requires a multimeter or a test light.
Ignition on, motor not running, gearbox in 3 or 4 th, gear, turn OD switch ON. OD light turns on. Now test for 12 V at term C1, the Yellow/Purple wire, on the relay. (You might want to temporarily re-mount the relay with terminals up fr access while troubleshooting. Be sure to re-attach the relay, as it must be grounded for proper operation)
If you have 12 V at Term C1, the relay is working, but if you did not hear the solenoid click, you have either a loose wire at the solenoid or a bad solenoid. Solenoid is available from VB and is not too difficult to replace .
If you have no 12 V at Term C1, then you have a bad relay. Replacements for these special, 2 contact, relays are hard to find, but you can replace it with a much more common relay, either a more common Lucas 6RA relay (like used for the original Series V ALt circuit) if you want to maintain an original look, or use a modern, low cost ( $6 ?) relay you can get from any Auto parts store. To use either of these more common relays you need a separate resistor and diode. I can supply these, along with connectors that simply the whole process in a kit I sell for $10, incl shipping in the US.
See this thread for more details:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17211
Tom
P.S. The relay CAN be disassembled and repaired, but I have had poor results with that. Most recently I added just the diode to my original OD relay, which is another solution if the relay still closes the one contact.
1) Bad solenoid
2) Bad relay
3) loose connections,
Easy to sort out. Requires a multimeter or a test light.
Ignition on, motor not running, gearbox in 3 or 4 th, gear, turn OD switch ON. OD light turns on. Now test for 12 V at term C1, the Yellow/Purple wire, on the relay. (You might want to temporarily re-mount the relay with terminals up fr access while troubleshooting. Be sure to re-attach the relay, as it must be grounded for proper operation)
If you have 12 V at Term C1, the relay is working, but if you did not hear the solenoid click, you have either a loose wire at the solenoid or a bad solenoid. Solenoid is available from VB and is not too difficult to replace .
If you have no 12 V at Term C1, then you have a bad relay. Replacements for these special, 2 contact, relays are hard to find, but you can replace it with a much more common relay, either a more common Lucas 6RA relay (like used for the original Series V ALt circuit) if you want to maintain an original look, or use a modern, low cost ( $6 ?) relay you can get from any Auto parts store. To use either of these more common relays you need a separate resistor and diode. I can supply these, along with connectors that simply the whole process in a kit I sell for $10, incl shipping in the US.
See this thread for more details:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=17211
Tom
P.S. The relay CAN be disassembled and repaired, but I have had poor results with that. Most recently I added just the diode to my original OD relay, which is another solution if the relay still closes the one contact.
Last edited:
themole
Donation Time
Relay test complete. When the OD is switched on and the car is in 3rd a breaker closes. I checked the solenoid as well and is make a loud click. The other breaker remains closed all the time. It seems to be power. If I open it the other breaker opens as well.
Not sure where to go from here.
I would really like to check the oil level before I drain and replace. Are there any indicators on this old gear box for measurement?
thanks
TM
Not sure where to go from here.
I would really like to check the oil level before I drain and replace. Are there any indicators on this old gear box for measurement?
thanks
TM