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series V starter works fires then dies

L

lumpy

Well I have not used this forum in about 2 years.

My wife's series V was finally uncovered today and "Houston We have a problem"

Starts up and runs as long as I hold the key in the start position , when I put it in the on position it dies.
So I thought bad switch , I pulled out another (yes I have a stockpile of parts). Wired it up and the same thing happens.

got me stumped where to start chasing Mr. Lucas.

Any Ideas??

F.Y.I. Shout out to Bob Berghult for staying in touch with me since the last time I met him at the Sunbeam invasion III I believe it was:)

Lumpy

Eagle , Mi
 
M

mikephillips

Donation Time
I think you should check the control box, charging circuit and wiring. The car runs with the solenoid on, which as a direct connection to the battery. Once the key is released the solenoid opens and the car shuts off. So there's no "backflow" from the battery to run the system and no charge from the alternator in the wiring either. With the key off, do the lights work?? Is there any power in the wiring at that point at all?? I'd have to look at a wiring diagrahm to see where the common point is but something's unhooked, burned out or miswired there.
 
L

lumpy

Yes , Lights work , Fuel gauge works with the key in the on position.
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Look at the connections to the ballast resistor. I'll bet they are corroded or broken. When in the starting position, the battery voltage is applied directly to the coil, bypassing the ballast resistor . But when you release to the Run position the voltage is applied by way of the ballast. And if that path is not good, you quit. Put the Ign sw in the run position and see if you have Voltage at the coil. Should be 1+ V if teh points are in te open position or maybe just 608 V is the points are closed. If No Voltage , then look at the voltage going into the Ballast resistor. The ballast Resistor is the large rectangular ceramic device near the coil.

I'm 90% sure this is the problem.

Tom
 
L

lumpy

o.k. here is what I got:

I only have a test light not a volt meter.

Key on I get a light at the ballast resistor side not connected to the coil.
I got no light at the ballast resistor side that is connected to the coil + side.

Bad Resistor???
 
Nickodell

Nickodell

Donation Time
Sounds as if you found the problem. One thing I don't understand, though. If you have to keep the ignition switch in the "start" position, your starter Bendix drive cog should be kicked out as soon as the engine fires, and I would have thought that you would then get a horrendous mashing of gears noise as it keeps trying to reengage with the flywheel ring gear.
 
L

lumpy

no it does not reengage so no grinding noise , can hear the starter whirling though.

Where does one locate a replacement ballast??

Any cross referenced ones or does it have to be the same?
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
You might try repairing the resistor. It may have accessible rivets that you could tighten a bit with a few taps from a small hammer. SS lists it as No Longer Available. You might be able to take yours to a good auto parts store and they might find a match. Probably would help to know the resistance value. I might measure mine when I get home.

Tom
 
L

lumpy

well I did update this over to an electronic ignition (pertronix) a few years back, should I just get an internally resistant coil? maybe a higher performance?
Not really worried about original , it is my wife's daily driver weather permitting and I want it reliable.

Thanks again in advance

Lumpy
 
sunbby

sunbby

Past SAOCA President
Donation Time
lumpy said:
o.k. here is what I got:

I only have a test light not a volt meter.

Key on I get a light at the ballast resistor side not connected to the coil.
I got no light at the ballast resistor side that is connected to the coil + side.

Bad Resistor???
Click to expand...

If the points are closed that side will read 0 volts. Either open the points or disconnect the wire from the distributor and check it. (Or feel if the resistor is getting hot).
 
Ken Ellis

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
I suppose it's possible that you have an intermittent engine ground, that works at high current (starter on) but not at normal run current. Of course, I could be way off, but it won't hurt to clean and verify good grounds from the firewall to the engine, and from the battery to the chassis.

Ken
 
B

Bill Blue

Platinum Level Sponsor
I repaired my resistor by soldering the riveted joints. Just have to give the hot resin flux some time to clean all the oxide off the brass. If you can't, or don't want to repair it, go to any auto store and ask for a 12 volt ignition ballast resistor. You should be able to get one that looks a lot like the one you have. Electrically, they are all the same.

Bill
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
As I said, you could try repairing it like Bill describes. Or try a replacement item from a good autoparts store. It's a pretty common (Old style) part. I checked a good one and it is about 1.5 ohms. Much simpler to repair of replace than getting a new coil. Plus the added starting spark that comes with this arrangement might be a plus when starting an infrequently used car.

Todd, even with points closed, the Plus side of the coil, where the ballast is connected, should read some volts. Either 7 volts (with the points closed) or 12 V with the points open (no current so no V dropped through the ballast). It's the other side of the coil - the side leading to the points that would be zero if the points were closed. I think he's found his problem- bad ballast


Tom
 
L

lumpy

I will fire up the imp and head to the parts store tomorrow and pick up a ballast, The one on the car is a bit corroded , so a $6.00 part will tell me.

Thanks for the heads up. i will follow up and let everyone know

lumpy
 
sunbby

sunbby

Past SAOCA President
Donation Time
Tom H said:
Todd, even with points closed, the Plus side of the coil, where the ballast is connected, should read some volts. Either 7 volts (with the points closed) or 12 V with the points open (no current so no V dropped through the ballast). It's the other side of the coil - the side leading to the points that would be zero if the points were closed. I think he's found his problem- bad ballast
Tom
Click to expand...

Yep, forgot about the internal resistance of the coil, as well as I was thinking about measuring the other side of the coil. :eek:
 
L

lumpy

BINGO - DING DING DING DING , WE HAVE A WINNER!

Replace the ballast resistor fires up and al be damned it continued to run.

Lots of love to this board , Thanks Tom H.

Hope to talk the wife into a day trip to the invasion this year in her car.

Lumpy
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
That's great , Lumpy. This was one of the rare occasions where I was pretty sure I knew the answer. Glad it worked for you.

How about telling us exactly the part number of what you bought. I had assumed it would be fairly easy to get something apropriate at a decent Auto Parts place, but am not sure what to ask for or how a counter guy would respond if I just asked for a "ballast resistor".

And I hope you an dyour wife make it to the Invasion, and I hope I do too.

Tom
 
L

lumpy

Tom

went to the local Carquest store he said hey they are all the same mainly , just lets check out the Ohms.

Most were in the 1.3-1.6 area so I just took one that they had in stock part # was RU4

total was $10.00

Lumpy
 
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