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Series 4 GT, pretending to be an ST

RootesRooter

RootesRooter

Donation Time
Probably not. I think I see GT waistrolls, but not a GT backpanel. Ad claims to have softtop frame included. If the slideshow would function, one of the other 55 photos would probably tell. Ad also claims to include a hardtop. Wonder if its stock?
 
B

bmohr

Gold Level Sponsor
Hi Paul,

Looks like an ST to me. On my GT with the soft top fitted by PO, it does not go flush but has a 'drophead' look to it. - Ian got me familiar with that term. I think they're just missing the trim for the soft top well and doors and such. Interesting that there are so few pics of the engine.
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
paul is correct, this car was a GT, The GT had L sectioned metal supports on the side to support the Gt side panels in the back and 2 vertical ones that went back to the rear scuttle to support the backrest you can see them in the pics where the side ones have been cut and the rear ones decapitated.

1808_1368856999537.jpg
 
P. Scofield

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
OK, I called and got pictures of the ID Tags. It's a GT alright. Looks like B9403104 GT. But get this.......Color Code 83?

What? That's right, Sapphire Blue on a Series IV? Was this a special order? Imagine if it was, what was the interior color. This may have been a real beaut when it came into the dealer.

Paul
 
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alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
Paul, you already have an amazing S3 GT... you want to collect a GT set? Bill Atallas Tiger GT was for sale.. then all you would need is a SVGT.. and maybe an auto SIVGT.. and a SIVa GT.. then you would be complete.

The car appears to have an original clock and ammeter.. did it have OD in the VIN?
 
P. Scofield

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
Mike, I know, I know, I don't need it, Besides, needs way too much. Need a doner GT and $20K to make this into a real nice car. I'd rather put that into a Tiger. Been looking around a bit.

PS: No, no OD on this tag
 
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Warren

Warren

Bronze Level Sponsor
Tupperware Top

Is that a Fiberglass aka in the wooden boat world Tupperware top? Looks different than the aluminium one.
 
O

OneHundredYears

Donation Time
Hey Guys! I'm super, brand new to SAOCA and I was wondering if you guys could offer some advice, since you really seem to know what you're talking about. I'm starting the hunt for my very first Sunbeam, and I'm wondering if this car would be a good place to start?

Paul seems to think it's a good car at a bad price, am I correct about that? If you don't mind me asking what would be a good price for this car? (Based on the pictures) would it be reasonably decent as a daily driver?

I was hoping to spend quite a bit less than what they're asking, especially since it would be my first, but I'm not sure if that's realistic on my part, or if I should be saving up some more.

Jeremy
 
Greggers

Greggers

SAOCA Vice President
Platinum Level Sponsor
Jeremy,

You can get a decent daily driver for that money or less. But personally, I don't think this is that car. And the money you'd have to put into it to bring it up to daily-driver snuff would add up and add up fast. I'm not sure I'd give $4000 for that car. I'm sure it runs like a top, and I'm sure it doesn't have a spec of rust. But just in the pictures, I can see thousands in bits and pieces.

With all the Alpines that show up on Craigslist in LA and surrounding areas (nothing decent currently, sadly), I wouldn't give this particular example another thought. Wait and you'll find one you can plunk $5000 on and have something to drive and tinker with as you tweak it to your taste.
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
On this car.. it really depends what you want to do with it.. lets say for example you found a rusty alpine or one that was full of filler, but with decent trim and interior parts etc... buy that car.. buy this one and move all the missing parts over and you end up with a solid and complete car for probably a fair bit less than a big resto.

Finding parts is a pain and tracking down hard to find parts far more so... but.. the golden rule in Sunbeams is buy the best body you can.. sorting rust and damage will cost far more in the long run than doing what is mentioned above, sourcing a donor car for the bits and swapping them in.
 
P. Scofield

P. Scofield

Bronze Level Sponsor
OneHundredYears said:
Paul seems to think it's a good car at a bad price, am I correct about that? If you don't mind me asking what would be a good price for this car? (Based on the pictures) would it be reasonably decent as a daily driver?
Jeremy
Click to expand...

It's a decent car in a rare color, but to bring it back it's proper GT identity, you are going to need a doner car for missing GT body parts and someone to weld them back on. Then, you need a hard-top, and a decnt one will cost you $1500 or more. Not to mention a ton of other stuff. To me, this is a classic example of a car worth more in parts than whole. If I was going to take this project on, I wouldn't pay more than $1800-$2400 for the whole ball of wax. And I would have to want it awful bad.

As someone else said, there are tons of Alipnes out there in the $5000 range that are complete, correct and drivable!

Paul
 
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M

mferris

Donation Time
Agree that it depends on what you want. I paid less than 1/2 of what they are asking for this car, and probably got a car about 1/4 as nice.

I ended up adjusting my goal from wanting a classic car to wanting experience and tools (welding, fabrication, and soon painting). I could/should have cut my losses along the way - but even with an extra $10K in (and likely $4K more to go) - I'm considering this cost of the entertainment and education, not of a car. Overall - I'm glad I'm doing this to a Sunbeam that was as beaten as mine vs. one that was nice from the start.

Regardless I think there are a few tenents for me in this game for the next time:
- Always check out a car in person
- Buy and appropriately price in necessary car projects (or not) - painting, engine, brakes, rust. OR - If you don't want projects, buy a show car.
- For lower demand/cost classis - if you want at least the chance of getting most of the money you put into it out of the car when you sell it, buy one that is complete and don't touch it
 
O

OneHundredYears

Donation Time
Awesome, thanks so much for the advice Greg, Michael, Paul, and mferris. I really appreciate it a lot. I'll keep my eyes out for something else that comes along, I'm really excited to officially become a Sunbeam owner soon I hope. Thanks a bunch, really!
 
RootesRich

RootesRich

Donation Time
OneHundredYears said:
Awesome, thanks so much for the advice Greg, Michael, Paul, and mferris. I really appreciate it a lot. I'll keep my eyes out for something else that comes along, I'm really excited to officially become a Sunbeam owner soon I hope. Thanks a bunch, really!
Click to expand...

If you happen to find a car you're interested in, I'd recommend having a local Sunbeam owner to come have a look with you. A knowledgeable 2nd set of eyes could save you some heartburn down the line.
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
For less than a GBP... the GT seat tops for the rear.. the metal supports for the back and side rests are easy, just L section and you have the mounts there.. no need to get originals.. and the actually panels are just ply.. so you can rebuild the rear area quite cheaply... if you get these bits..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sunbeam-A...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3cd33bf2b6

Not saying it would be a cheap project.. but if its a solid car its not a bad place to start... that said.. the person was already going down the ST conversion path.. as GT's are not that practical.
 
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