S IV ignition questions...

[SIVAllan]

SIV ignition questions

I hooked a compressor to the fuel line, and let it run for over an hour. It leveled off at about 70 psi.

Finally the hose I used to hook the compressor to the fuel line blew out.

Some gas appeared at the end of the fuel line, but the blockage must still be there as the fuel pump once re-hooked to the fuel line draws no fuel when the engine spins.

I can get a pressure hose in the morning, and force air backwards much longer; maybe the block will clear and I can move to step two.

But it looks like fuel line/tank corruption, likely from degraded fuel tank linings.

I guess I'll have to figure out how to remove the gas tanks and fuel line. Removing the tanks should be interesting...

Any knowledge on fuel tank removal would be very much appreciated!

Allan

Allan[/QUOTE]

 

[Bill Blue]

Allan, if 70 psi did not do it, forget the rest. Time to pull the tanks. I pulled mine a couple of years ago. The highlights (at least what I remember) are:

Remove the trunk lid
Remove all the trunk lid linkage and springs
Remove the hose clamps holding pieces of the crossover pipe together and to the tanks. Struggle a bit to remove the crossover hoses, curse quite a bit, bandage the cuts, then slice them open to free the crossover pipe and elbows.
Remove the filler hose and the small vapor equalization hose that runs from tank to tank across the top of the trunk.
Unbolt and remove the tanks. Remember - THEY WILL COME OUT WITHOUT REMOVING THE FENDERS. But you will experience doubt.

I'm sure there is plenty I've forgotten, but that should get you started.

Bill

 

[SIVAllan]

S IV ignition questions

Allan, if 70 psi did not do it, forget the rest. Time to pull the tanks. I pulled mine a couple of years ago. The highlights (at least what I remember) are:

Remove the trunk lid
Remove all the trunk lid linkage and springs
Remove the hose clamps holding pieces of the crossover pipe together and to the tanks. Struggle a bit to remove the crossover hoses, curse quite a bit, bandage the cuts, then slice them open to free the crossover pipe and elbows.
Remove the filler hose and the small vapor equalization hose that runs from tank to tank across the top of the trunk.
Unbolt and remove the tanks. Remember - THEY WILL COME OUT WITHOUT REMOVING THE FENDERS. But you will experience doubt.

I'm sure there is plenty I've forgotten, but that should get you started.

Bill

Bill,

Thanks again.

I plan to do one more test tomorrow.

I will double check whether the fuel pump is installed correctly, then drain the fuel tanks, and replenish with current fuel, and see if I can by visual inspection spot any kinks in the fuel line.

I will also try compressed air through the line with it disconnected in the rear.

I don't mind tackling the tanks, but want to be as sure of the fuel line as possible as a first step.

Thanks again for your help! It is very much appreciated.

Allan

 

[Jeff Scoville]

Allan, If it's one thing you'll learn is when we say your wasting your time, we know what were talking about.
No matter how much you wish we are all wrong, were not.
Even if you were to clear the line, it will just clog again as once this stuff starts coming loose it just NEVER ends.
It has most certainly gotten into your carb/carbs as well.
I bought a Series IV a couple years ago that had 3 carbs and numerous rebuild kits in the trunk. Seller said it had a carb problem, I pulled the tanks had them dipped and lined, put them in the car and have driven it trouble free since. ( I now have 3 perfect spare carbs!)
Twenty years ago I had another IV that I screwed with for a couple years off and on, finally selling it for peanuts as a non-runner. Knowing now what I didn't know then, I sold a perfectly good car with dirty tanks for far less than I care to recall.
Do some searching, our tanks are small enough you can find a radiator shop that can boil/dip them for you, even if you don't re-line them (which I suggest you do) at least all the junk will be gone. They can usually be done in less than a week. I paid about $125.00 including lining.
You may also want to try to save by "cleaning" them yourself, don't waste your time.

 

[Bill Blue]

Allan, what Jeff is saying is true. You may, however, be able to salvage the gas line if you manage to clear it. They seem to last forever and installing replacements is not fun.

As to the tanks, the only question is "Have they been cleaned?" If not, they will need it as they all go bad if gasoline has been in them all these years. I cleaned and relined my tanks. If you can get it done for $125, that is a bargain. The cleaner and relining material is not cheap and getting all the crap out of them is a real chore. Even though the liner is peeling off, some of it still sticks like crazy and has to come out.

Bill

 

[SIVAllan]

Hi Bill,

I have no doubt as to the truth of the issue.

I have to drain the tanks anyway, and while at it might as well clean the line, and proceed one step at a time.

I've already begun looking into procedures for re-doing the tanks, or swapping them as cores for tanks already re-prepared.

I'm naturally curious and wonder whether the tanks all go bad, or if this is primarily an issue for tanks that have been in prolonged disuse.

I don't know what category my S IV is in, it appears not to have been idle a long time, but I really can't say. I don't have that information.

I have to find a container for the old fuel this morning, and once I get it drained will post whether it appears to have gunk in it, or is discolored.

It never occurred to me but it's probably a good idea for any new owner to drain old fuel as step #1.

I appreciate and value the help and advice of folks here, no question.

Allan

 

[Bill Blue]

Allan, it appears the liner is not totally fuel proof and the problem comes from years of soaking in gasoline. I say that because my tank bottoms had lost all the liner, while the upper portions were in good condition. Well, at least better condition. Also, there are cars that have been in continuous use for the past 30-40 years that have problem tanks, driving their frustrated owners to drink.

Bill

 

[Green67Alpine]

Allan, Sims Radiator, many locations in the Atlanta area, will "boil out" your tanks and cross tubes , I've had them do a couple radiators in the past, and this winter I'm going to get my Series V tanks done, while the car is up forinterior and overdrive installation.


Tom j

 

[SIVAllan]

Tom,

Thanks. Does SIMS apply the red aircraft stuff too?

Allan

 

[SIVAllan]

Hi Bill,

I wanted to pick your brain for a moment <s>?

I am testing fuel delivery and have hit a problem...

I disconnected the fuel line just below the rear bumper, and drained the line and the tanks.

I am trying to hook to an alternate fuel source for testing.

I found a hardware store fitting to which a fuel hose could be attached, and connected the fitting and fuel hose to the end of the fuel line.

Then the test hose was inserted into a cannister of fuel.

The fuel tanks are not part of the equation and will be relined or replaced.

The engine was then cranked, but no fuel was pumped.

I can feel slight pressure at either end of the line while the engine turns, but no fuel is moving through the line.

Forcing air through the line reveals no blockage.

I tried use of the fuel pump's manual primer, but to no avail.

Possibly the test fitting is not airtight; it is on finger tight, and the test hose is well clamped to it.

If anything comes to mind I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks.

Allan

 

[Green67Alpine]

Allen, Sims does use some kind of "red sealer" as the guy in Larryville called it. I got my carbs back (again) but the front bowl or the "t" leaks like hell, how VERY disappointing as I've been waiting quite a while to get this car running.................

Tom j

 

[SIVAllan]

Tom,

Thanks for the Sims tip.

Sorry about the carbs! I have a pair of Stromberg 150's to rebuild if the Zeniths are a problem (if I ever get that far along!!). They were in the parts car trunk for 20 years.

Allan

 

[Bill Blue]

Hi Bill,

I wanted to pick your brain for a moment <s>?

I am testing fuel delivery and have hit a problem...

I disconnected the fuel line just below the rear bumper, and drained the line and the tanks.

I am trying to hook to an alternate fuel source for testing.

I found a hardware store fitting to which a fuel hose could be attached, and connected the fitting and fuel hose to the end of the fuel line.

Then the test hose was inserted into a cannister of fuel.

The fuel tanks are not part of the equation and will be relined or replaced.

The engine was then cranked, but no fuel was pumped.

I can feel slight pressure at either end of the line while the engine turns, but no fuel is moving through the line.

Forcing air through the line reveals no blockage.

I tried use of the fuel pump's manual primer, but to no avail.

Possibly the test fitting is not airtight; it is on finger tight, and the test hose is well clamped to it.

If anything comes to mind I would appreciate it very much.

Thanks.

Allan

Barring a leak at a joint on either end of the fuel line, I think you are looking at a fuel pump problem. A mechanical pump will generate considerable vacuum. But I'm afraid I'm going to have to leave it at that as I have never messed with the Alpine fuel pump. I think there is supposed to be a spacer between the fuel pump and block, but that's about it. Without it, the pump will not operate correctly.

Sorry to be of so little help.

Bill

 

[SIVAllan]

Bill,

Thanks. Actually the info is quite helpful.

I will revisit the pump. I have a S V parts car now, and will take a look at its fuel pump with reference to a spacer. That had not occurred to me.

Allan

 

[SIVAllan]

S IV ignition questions

Bill,

Thanks. Actually the info is quite helpful.

I will revisit the pump. I have a S V parts car now, and will take a look at its fuel pump with reference to a spacer. That had not occurred to me.

Allan

Hi,

Just an update on the fuel pump, and a fuel line question...?

Pump was removed from the S IV, correct inlet fittings found, and an off-the-car test was performed satisfactorily.

Pump was reinstalled, and was tested using a fuel line to a remote fuel source. Pump works on the car satisractorily.

Fuel line.

I think it needs replacing.

I have seen a flexible fuel line on a S V, and wondered what is the correct length?

I can use my S IV fuel line fittings on a new flexible fuel line, which would be easier to install for a rookie like me.

I will start assembling items for the fuel tank re-do, and in the meantime, will continue to work on the fuel line.

If anyone has information or comment regarding a flexible fuel line, particularly the correct length, please jump right in.

Thanks!

Allan

 

[65beam]

fuel line

a series 5 that we bought in california had rubber fuel hose from the tank to the pump.not sure how long it was but would be easy to measure with a tape measure.the rubber hose was pushed onto a short piece of the original line and secured with a hose clamp.it was secured under the car with the clips that hold the original line.

 

[SIVAllan]

Ingenius!

I'd never have thought of that solution.

Great!

Thanks.

Allan

 

[Jeff Scoville]

Allen, it should go without saying, but.....
Whichever line you decide to use, make sure it is WELL secured and routed as far away as possible from moving parts and heat sources.
There are multiple tabs along the frame to keep it secured, use as many as possible.

 

[SIVAllan]

Jeff, thanks.

That's good advice.

I will route the new line along the same route as the factory line, and make double sure it is secured all along the way.

Allan