RPM Guage

[bbonner]

We are having problems with our RPM Rev gauge It stopped working when we put in a new distributor. It is a 64 IV which I believe is a positive electrical system. The new distributor works fine but it is not the original type that came with the car and we are unable to figure out how to hook the Rev meter back up as the wires don't match how it was hooked up before. ANY ONE Have any suggestions. Beverly

 

[mikephillips]

Can you provide some details on the distributor, make, model, what's different about the wiring and so on?? without knowing where you're starting from our thoughts might not be worth much.

 

[bbonner]

distributor

I will get that information for you. I will have to do that when I get home from work. We replaced the coil too. I will get all the information. I just miss the RPM Thing even tough it is not necessary like to have it operational. Beverly (THANK YOU FOR RESPONDING)

 

[sunalp]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the tach run off the coil, not the distributor? I know there's more wires there, only one runs to the distributor.
You probably have a loose wire on the back of the tach.
HTH.
Cheers!
Steve

 

[bbonner]

Correct

I was confused....it is a woman thing. Yes when we go to connect it to the coil the wiring is different. You are right..Dah. Thanks for bringing me to my senses. We replaced both at that time. It seems there is two white wires and the coil is different and doesn't have the same place to hook it too. Do we have to change the coil to something different??? Beverly

 

[sunbby]

It actually sort of runs off both the coil and the distrubutor. The normal setup up has the tach sense on the wire from the ignition switch to the coil, this circuit then goes to the distributor and points.

Replacing the coil and distributor should not have required messing with the connections on the tach at all. Since you mentioned there are 2 white wires on the old coil and there is only 1 spot on the new coil or something, I'm guessing a different switched 12volt line is supplying the tach, not the line from the ignition switch that runs through the tach pickup.

It may just be a matter off switching which wire you have supplying the coil.

But as Mike requested, please give us some more details about the wiring differences before changing anything so we can be sure nothing will be fried!

Also, is the tach completely dead or is it giving erratic/low readings?

 

[bbonner]

rpm

When my husband tries to hook the wires back up the rpm needle jumps but when the car is running and this happens it shuts the car off....weird. Then if he puts the other white wire on it does nothing. The needle doesn't jump but the car stays running. Confused....I will get the information for you. All the other guages are still working fine. Bev

 

[V_Mad]

Your old coil should have had two terminals: one connected only to the distributor, and the other connected to the white ignition wires terminal (there might be two wires, one comes from your tach probably via a ballast resistor and the other comes from the solenoid). Your new coil should be connected the same way. There is no reason to disconnect the tachometer.

I cant see what the problem might be?

 

[SIVAllan]

The ballast resistor (or whatever it is called) can monkey up wiring as well, particularly if the new coil uses an internal resistor, but the factory wires are looking for the resistor.

Allan

 

[bbonner]

coil

We put electronic ignition in the car and since then we have had this problem. It must have something to do with it Bev

 

[sunbby]

Bev,

Did you get your tachometer working? If so, what was the issue?

Todd

 

[bbonner]

Rpm

No My husband thinks he might have to put the resister back on that he took off and hook it to the RPM Thingy. Any ideas? Bev