Repair Bakelite Glove Box Surround

[tylerite3124]

Anyone have a recommendation for what adhesive to use to repair the bakelite glove box surround on our Alpines? Mine broke trying to remove it and I want to repair it by gluing it back together. Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
Rick

 

[junkman]

I would try Super Glue Gel, I've repaired many things with it and good luck. Maybe epoxy a patch on the back after you super glue it.

 

[tylerite3124]

I would try Super Glue Gel, I've repaired many things with it and good luck.

Thanks Jeff. Do you have to hold the parts together with pressure for a minute or so after applying the gel?
Rick

 

[junkman]

If it's warm not even a minute.

 

[puff4]

With Bakelite, and many other repairs, I'm a big fan of using a 2-part slow-to-medium cure epoxy... it's much stronger ultimately than super glue, and it gives plenty of working time to get things perfectly lined up. Further, any excess can easily be cleaned up with alcohol (or acetone) before before it's fully cured, meaning any glue that oozes out can rapidly be cleaned up, making the repair even more invisible. Super glue will work on Bakelite, but your work time is virtually zero, and any excess that gets on the part or appears at the join is difficult to remove. Also, if you have to stop and start over, the superglue will be next to impossible to remove, whereas the epoxy can be 100% removed prior to cure. You can also get archival-quality epoxies that won't yellow over time (like HXTAL NYL-1). Finally, epoxy can be combined with linen or other thin fabric to make a built-up patch in a hidden area at the join that can make the part even stronger.

One trick I use is to employ modeling clay to hold the pieces in the proper position during the cure. You can also use electrical tape, which has a bit of stretch to it, to hole the join tight during cure.

 

[tylerite3124]

With Bakelite, and many other repairs, I'm a big fan of using a 2-part slow-to-medium cure epoxy... it's much stronger ultimately than super glue, and it gives plenty of working time to get things perfectly lined up. Further, any excess can easily be cleaned up with alcohol (or acetone) before before it's fully cured, meaning any glue that oozes out can rapidly be cleaned up, making the repair even more invisible. Super glue will work on Bakelite, but your work time is virtually zero, and any excess that gets on the part or appears at the join is difficult to remove. Also, if you have to stop and start over, the superglue will be next to impossible to remove, whereas the epoxy can be 100% removed prior to cure. You can also get archival-quality epoxies that won't yellow over time (like HXTAL NYL-1). Finally, epoxy can be combined with linen or other thin fabric to make a built-up patch in a hidden area at the join that can make the part even stronger.

One trick I use is to employ modeling clay to hold the pieces in the proper position during the cure. You can also use electrical tape, which has a bit of stretch to it, to hole the join tight during cure.

Thanks, Kevin. Very informative.
Rick

 

[volvoguys]

2X agree with Kevin. Epoxy is a far better adhesive.

 

[sunalp]

I've used the two part epoxy to fix broken bakelite. It does work pretty well, but these parts are old and likely
to break again. As a welder once told me, the repair is only as good as the weakest part.

 

[Bill Blue]

I use super glue to glue it back together. After the glue sets for an hour or so, I use two part epoxy (J B Weld) to reinforce the repaired area Sand, paint with Krylon Satin Black and it looks like it just arrived from the factory. Produces a very strong part.

 

[tylerite3124]

I use super glue to glue it back together. After the glue sets for an hour or so, I use two part epoxy (J B Weld) to reinforce the repaired area Sand, paint with Krylon Satin Black and it looks like it just arrived from the factory. Produces a very strong part.

Thanks for the input! I appreciate it.
Rick

 

[Pete S.]

Anyone have a recommendation for what adhesive to use to repair the bakelite glove box surround on our Alpines? Mine broke trying to remove it and I want to repair it by gluing it back together. Any suggestions will be much appreciated.
Rick

If it was mine, I would use Marine grade epoxy.

 

[tylerite3124]

If it was mine, I would use Marine grade epoxy.

Thanks, Pete

 

[bobbo]

If all fails, I do have a spare from changing out my dash.

 

[JSLoeffl]

Krylon Fusion - Satin Black spray paint works well if you refinish it. Works well and close match to original. I have used it on my cubby surround, steering wheel, and steering column cover.

 

[tylerite3124]

Krylon Fusion - Satin Black spray paint works well if you refinish it. Works well and close match to original. I have used it on my cubby surround, steering wheel, and steering column cover.

Thanks, Joey.
Rick

 

[puff4]

I agree on Krylon Satin Black where the finish won’t otherwise be restorable. I’ve used it for years on many of my restorations because it most closely matches the original patina of plastics and certain metal panels.

With the Bakelite, however, I really like to keep the finish in the original Bakelite. It has a certain “glow” when waxed and polished that’s really hard to replicate with paint. Frankly, I just use some very fine steel wool to remove the oxidation, then I rub in some black shoe polish and buff it to a nice shine. It comes up great!

 

[tylerite3124]

I agree on Krylon Satin Black where the finish won’t otherwise be restorable. I’ve used it for years on many of my restorations because it most closely matches the original patina of plastics and certain metal panels.

With the Bakelite, however, I really like to keep the finish in the original Bakelite. It has a certain “glow” when waxed and polished that’s really hard to replicate with paint. Frankly, I just use some very fine steel wool to remove the oxidation, then I rub in some black shoe polish and buff it to a nice shine. It comes up great!

Great information. Thanks Kevin.

 

[Alpine 1789]

I just use some very fine steel wool to remove the oxidation, then I rub in some black shoe polish and buff it to a nice shine. It comes up great!

I have had very good luck with this method, but have also used India Ink to dye the plastic first. But, I will also add that one problem with this method - at least with the steering wheel surround - is that cleaning the inside of the windows frequently spots the finish on the bakelite and requires a re-polishing to bring back the glow.

 

[tylerite3124]

I have had very good luck with this method, but have also used India Ink to dye the plastic first.

More good information. Thanks, Jim.

 

[Acollin]

While I hate to rain on the parade, I have mixed luck with glue/ epoxy/ jb weld etc. In my experience , if the bit requires stressing/ twisting the weakened spot, getting it back in place, it is likely to break. With my glove box surround, the repair failed, but on my steering wheel, the repair worked pretty well.
I was able to source another surround— its been awhile now, but it might have come from Mark— volvoguy. You really have nothing to lose with a repair, but know that the surround is available used— there might be some hunting required, but they are out there.
Good luck