Removing the "jaw nut"

[philt]

Ok replacing the timing cover on my "67. The front crank seal is likely original and past it useful life. A nice CNC part from SS is a major improvement.
How do I remove the 'jaw nut" since I have no idea where to find the "Churchill starting dog nut spanner" noted in the manual. The current nut looks like someone used a pipe wrench..
Phil

 

[RootesRooter]

Hopefully the nut's not too buggered up by the pipe wrench. Is the nut a standard flat head or the stock one: long and slotted?

If its long and slotted, you'll need a 1-5/16" deep socket. Otherwise a regular 1-5/16" socket will do.

Oh, and there's no "seal" on the crank, but there are aftermarket timing chain covers with built-in seals. You'll also possibly (likely?) need a new lower pulley, as the stock ones inevitably crack along the keyway and start wobbling. The repros are a much better (tighter) fit.

 

[puff4]

Yes, RootesRooter is correct. I actually have the prototype of that new CNC cover on my Series V - mine is black and has the talbot logo engraved on the front. The seal on it works great, but you do need to change crank pulleys (harmonic balancer). However, that’s not a bad thing - nearly all the original harmonic balancers out there are now well beyond their useful life, and many are so bad that the outer (v-belt) ring has shifted and is either wobbling out of line or has rotated, leading to incorrect timing marks. There are several vendors offering new ones and I strongly recommend getting one.

 

[philt]

Yes I was surprised the internal "reverse oil slinger" is the seal and the timing covers has only a rubber O ring . My thanks to RootesRoots and puff4.
I will be ordering a replacement bolt and the balancer tomorrow from SS.
It looks like I will need to remove the front suspension to get at the damaged nut.

 

[jumpinjan]

Get a large pipe wrench and get that nut off....Locate a trash can and deposit the nut in the can. Replace with a grade 8, 3/4"-16 x 1" hex bolt & washer.
You will not regret it.
Jan