-
Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.
If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.
Enjoy.
Removing splined rear hubs?
- Thread starter Randy
- Start date
RootesRacer
Donation Time
How does one remove splined rear hubs. Are the bolts threaded right and left for each of the sides? My bolts are a bit tough to loosen. If they have frozen up on me, what can I do to prevent breaking the heads off?
The following instructions are from a tool I saw and made a replica many moons ago....
You first must loosen the axle nut inside the hubs.
This is no different than the bolt on hubs.
The next step requires a modified knock off (side specific).
Next procure a hardened threaded "hub puller" shaft, from a normal pulley or hub puller.
Also procure 2 nuts that match the puller shafts threads (typ fine thread).
You drill a hole in the knock off to provide for the pullers shaft in the center each knock off.
Braze one each of the nuts onto the inside of each knock off in the center.
Install the puller shaft into the relevant knock off, and tighten down the knock off till it is home against the hub.
Tighten the puller shaft till it engages the axle.
Tighten down until the hub is broken free.
Much like the bolt on hubs, it can take a lot of force to break the hub loose from the tapered axle shaft.
Jim E
Donation Time
Thinking he means the four bolts that hold the brake drum to the hub. If so those are just regular thread.
The nuts on the axle that hold the hubs to the axle are also regular handed thread. These can be hard to get off if you are using a breaker bar. Seem to recall they are on at about 180 ft lb. You might get them loose with the tire on the car and the car on the ground with a breaker bar and a pipe on the bar. An impact wrench is the ticket for removal and replacement of the nut.
Someone on here built a spinner puller and just managed to bust the center out of the spinner.
I use one like the above picture, no Alpine hub has beat me yet, had a Tiger hub come close.
www.toolking.com part number OCT 7394
The below link may or may not work...
http://www.toolking.com/otc(divisionofspxcorp.)_otc7394.aspx
Even with the heavy duty puller it takes a BFH and choice words to get one off that has never been off...
Oh and I have seen these for $125 so you may get one cheaper if you shop a bit this site is just the first one that google spit out. You only need two of the fingers for Alpines
The nuts on the axle that hold the hubs to the axle are also regular handed thread. These can be hard to get off if you are using a breaker bar. Seem to recall they are on at about 180 ft lb. You might get them loose with the tire on the car and the car on the ground with a breaker bar and a pipe on the bar. An impact wrench is the ticket for removal and replacement of the nut.
Someone on here built a spinner puller and just managed to bust the center out of the spinner.
I use one like the above picture, no Alpine hub has beat me yet, had a Tiger hub come close.
www.toolking.com part number OCT 7394
The below link may or may not work...
http://www.toolking.com/otc(divisionofspxcorp.)_otc7394.aspx
Even with the heavy duty puller it takes a BFH and choice words to get one off that has never been off...
Oh and I have seen these for $125 so you may get one cheaper if you shop a bit this site is just the first one that google spit out. You only need two of the fingers for Alpines
Stars & Stripes Tool Inc. sells a Universal Hub Puller for about $45...it looks to be the same tool.
Direct:
http://www.sastool.com/product_info.php?products_id=226&osCsid=01a0b5efd6c9cecfda5206a58c3c9e9f
Homepage:
http://www.sastool.com/
I have been meaning to buy one of these myself...
Paul
Direct:
http://www.sastool.com/product_info.php?products_id=226&osCsid=01a0b5efd6c9cecfda5206a58c3c9e9f
Homepage:
http://www.sastool.com/
I have been meaning to buy one of these myself...
Paul
jack Bacon
Donation Time
Removing splined rear hubs
I will be ordering my hub puller tomorrow also
Regards,
Jack
I will be ordering my hub puller tomorrow also
Regards,
Jack
removing rear splined hubs
I actually stripped one wheel puller and broke another on one hub. I also borrowed a sledge drive ( heavy duty) from Advance Auto Parts. The hub did not move. I ended up pulling the axle and pressing the hub off (with heat). When it turned loose it sounded like a 12 guage shotgun.
Good luck,
Russ
I actually stripped one wheel puller and broke another on one hub. I also borrowed a sledge drive ( heavy duty) from Advance Auto Parts. The hub did not move. I ended up pulling the axle and pressing the hub off (with heat). When it turned loose it sounded like a 12 guage shotgun.
Good luck,
Russ
jack Bacon
Donation Time
Removing Rear Hubs
So, if the hubs won't budge can one pull the axle with the hub. If so, what is the proper procedure. My son siad if we can pull each axle and hub out he can press them off at the shop.
Regards,
Jack
So, if the hubs won't budge can one pull the axle with the hub. If so, what is the proper procedure. My son siad if we can pull each axle and hub out he can press them off at the shop.
Regards,
Jack
Jack,
I would strongly suggest NOT removing the hub & axle and using a press to separate the two. I've know a few guys who have damaged their parts and there have been a few threads in the past from others who have done the same. The WSM instructs to use a puller and 'smartly' strike the end to remove.
The Churchill tool originally used by Rootes was a 4-point puller and, yes, would be a little gentler on the hub - but it's really not necessary. I've used the tripod type pullers mentioned earlier in this thread and wasn't pleased with their performance. I now use a heavy duty puller made by Proto (model 4001) that can be used on either steel or wire hubs and can occasionally be bought on eBay for $75-$100. This is the best I've found and has proved reliable many times.
Mark
I would strongly suggest NOT removing the hub & axle and using a press to separate the two. I've know a few guys who have damaged their parts and there have been a few threads in the past from others who have done the same. The WSM instructs to use a puller and 'smartly' strike the end to remove.
The Churchill tool originally used by Rootes was a 4-point puller and, yes, would be a little gentler on the hub - but it's really not necessary. I've used the tripod type pullers mentioned earlier in this thread and wasn't pleased with their performance. I now use a heavy duty puller made by Proto (model 4001) that can be used on either steel or wire hubs and can occasionally be bought on eBay for $75-$100. This is the best I've found and has proved reliable many times.
Mark
Jim E
Donation Time
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PROT...ryZ43996QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
V guys,
This one? looks like a nice puller. I recommend the one I pictured because it is the one in the shop and has worked for me. Well one tiger hub caused me some trouble and had to use the torch to heat the thing up. Actually with heat it still pulled the hub but I left the nut on the axle and the heat welded the nut to the threads which was a problem. Had to cut teh nut off and spent hours dressing the threads. The only thing that concerns me about the puller I have is the two leg pull, no way to get a four leg pull with it that I can figure out. The issue is I have seen the hubs distort a bit on a tuff pull. You can actually see the area you are bolted to bend a bit they always seem to spring back to shape after they come off but it is a bit nerve racking. I think the most important thing and I think this is REALLY important is getting a straight pull and I spend time when attaching the puller to ensure it is square to the hub and does not cock when you apply pressure.
Side note, fixed the wiring on my 242 OD and man now I really like the car!
V guys,
This one? looks like a nice puller. I recommend the one I pictured because it is the one in the shop and has worked for me. Well one tiger hub caused me some trouble and had to use the torch to heat the thing up. Actually with heat it still pulled the hub but I left the nut on the axle and the heat welded the nut to the threads which was a problem. Had to cut teh nut off and spent hours dressing the threads. The only thing that concerns me about the puller I have is the two leg pull, no way to get a four leg pull with it that I can figure out. The issue is I have seen the hubs distort a bit on a tuff pull. You can actually see the area you are bolted to bend a bit they always seem to spring back to shape after they come off but it is a bit nerve racking. I think the most important thing and I think this is REALLY important is getting a straight pull and I spend time when attaching the puller to ensure it is square to the hub and does not cock when you apply pressure.
Side note, fixed the wiring on my 242 OD and man now I really like the car!
RootesRacer
Donation Time
Procedure is:
Remove brake shoes and brake HW.
Remove brake lines to the rear slave cyl.
Remove e-brake linkage to rear slave cyl.
Remove slave cyl + e-brake HW.
Remove the brake backing plate to axle tube bolts.
Break the gasket seal between the backing plate and the axle tube.
Pull the axle out (backing plate goes along with the ride).
Pay attention to the number of gaskets and amount on each side of the backing plate, and try to reproduce these thicknesses upon reassembly.
Remove brake shoes and brake HW.
Remove brake lines to the rear slave cyl.
Remove e-brake linkage to rear slave cyl.
Remove slave cyl + e-brake HW.
Remove the brake backing plate to axle tube bolts.
Break the gasket seal between the backing plate and the axle tube.
Pull the axle out (backing plate goes along with the ride).
Pay attention to the number of gaskets and amount on each side of the backing plate, and try to reproduce these thicknesses upon reassembly.
Hi Jim,
Yes, that is the exact puller I use and it has never let me down. Honestly, it would be better to get a hold of the hub by 4 points but 2 will would perfectly fine. Once I mount the puller onto the hub I crank the center bolt (with a long breaker bar) pretty tight and hit the bolt a few times with a 6 pound hammer. I crank the bolt another 1/4 turn and hit it again. After 3-4 times the whole assembly pops off and I have no worries about warping since I never expose the parts to extreme pressures. I agree with the earlier suggestion to keep the bolt on the spindle so stuff doesn't fly all over the place.
The puller can be used on steel or wire hubs. I recommend the purchase of 2 additional bolts with the same threads as those that you took out to remove the brake drum - only 1" longer. They're particularly important for wire removal because the thickness of the spline throat necessitates the puller leg be about an inch from the bolting surface. If anyone actually buys one of these pullers and wants some more tech tips I'll be happy to supply a number to call and we can discuss.
BTW, Jim, I'm glad you sorted your problem with the 240 heater. I'm kinda curious what you found in WIRING that caused the heat to be constantly on??
tc, Mark ..... volvoguys
Yes, that is the exact puller I use and it has never let me down. Honestly, it would be better to get a hold of the hub by 4 points but 2 will would perfectly fine. Once I mount the puller onto the hub I crank the center bolt (with a long breaker bar) pretty tight and hit the bolt a few times with a 6 pound hammer. I crank the bolt another 1/4 turn and hit it again. After 3-4 times the whole assembly pops off and I have no worries about warping since I never expose the parts to extreme pressures. I agree with the earlier suggestion to keep the bolt on the spindle so stuff doesn't fly all over the place.
The puller can be used on steel or wire hubs. I recommend the purchase of 2 additional bolts with the same threads as those that you took out to remove the brake drum - only 1" longer. They're particularly important for wire removal because the thickness of the spline throat necessitates the puller leg be about an inch from the bolting surface. If anyone actually buys one of these pullers and wants some more tech tips I'll be happy to supply a number to call and we can discuss.
BTW, Jim, I'm glad you sorted your problem with the 240 heater. I'm kinda curious what you found in WIRING that caused the heat to be constantly on??
tc, Mark ..... volvoguys
Jim E
Donation Time
Oh I do pretty nuch the same thing with the puller I use, tighten-whack it-tighten whack it repeat til it comes off, and I leave the nut on, just will not leave the nut on a stuck one that has to have the gas ax applied to it. Will just keep out of the way...
On the 242 still have not sorted the heat on all the time issue, just repaired the wiring to the overdrive so instead of it being in 4th OD all the time now have both 4th gears. PM me your number I would like to talk about a couple issues on this beast.
On the 242 still have not sorted the heat on all the time issue, just repaired the wiring to the overdrive so instead of it being in 4th OD all the time now have both 4th gears. PM me your number I would like to talk about a couple issues on this beast.
jack Bacon
Donation Time
Removing splined rear hubs
When using the rear hub, is the center bolt directly on the end of the axle shaft or do you have a round piece of metal in between for protection?
Regards,
Jack
When using the rear hub, is the center bolt directly on the end of the axle shaft or do you have a round piece of metal in between for protection?
Regards,
Jack
jack Bacon
Donation Time
Removing Splined rear hubs
Finally got around to trying my new hub puller. I put 12 washers between the puller legs and the hub. Started turning , whacking with small sledge as I went. The legs are gradually starting to come in contact with the splines on the wire wheel hub and not budging. I am letting it sit overnight with pressure on the axle. If no luck tomorrow will pull the axles. My hub puller is from Stars & Stripes Tools in Duluth, MN -
http://www.sastool.com/advanced_sea...uller&osCsid=a4057f88035f695de172ee69d8307fb0
Regards,
Jack
Finally got around to trying my new hub puller. I put 12 washers between the puller legs and the hub. Started turning , whacking with small sledge as I went. The legs are gradually starting to come in contact with the splines on the wire wheel hub and not budging. I am letting it sit overnight with pressure on the axle. If no luck tomorrow will pull the axles. My hub puller is from Stars & Stripes Tools in Duluth, MN -
http://www.sastool.com/advanced_sea...uller&osCsid=a4057f88035f695de172ee69d8307fb0
Regards,
Jack