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Overdrive problem

DaveSeries1

DaveSeries1

Silver Level Sponsor
Here's one for the pros. My S1 has been running well during the break in period, most everything is ok. One big problem. My overdrive keeps blowing the fuse when I try to engage it. Power to the solenoid is good, with the Green/Black wire disconnected, it lights a test light. Took the solenoid out, cleaned everything, put it back in and tested it. Tried 6 times and it clicked and worked every time. Pump lever is not stuck and moved freely. Took it down the road, Engaged the overdrive, and it blew the fuse! Replace the fuse, tested the circuit again in the driveway, all is good. What the heck is happening? I'll road test it tonight and see if it blows another fuse but I'm stumped. Another small problem, the low beam filament of the driver's side headlight keeps blowing out. Voltmeter shows 13 1/2 volts, no overload, but 3 bulbs have blown. Any ideas?
 
husky drvr

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
Dave,

Just some questions that the experts will probably ask.

Are you still using the original wiring harness?

Still using the original generator and regulator?

Has your Alpine been changed to negative ground?

Do you have an ammeter or voltmeter installed?

Have you checked the system voltage at higher than idle RPM's?

What happens to the system voltage under electrical load?

What type headlights are expiring; original sealed beam, halogen, or LED?

Just a few thoughts,
 
DaveSeries1

DaveSeries1

Silver Level Sponsor
Thanks for the replies. I'll try to answer as well as I can. Only other thing on the circuit is the horn, and that works fine, doesn't blow the fuse. Has original wiring harness (all tested before re-installing). Rebuilt generator, new voltage regulator. Still positive ground. Has ammeter and voltmeter both, all indicating good voltage. At high rpms, goes up to 13 1/2- 14 volts, no higher. Under load, voltage stay constant. Have sealed beam headlights, only drivers side giving problem.
 
bernd_st

bernd_st

Bronze Level Sponsor
Has been asked before, but what fuse rating are you using ?
On a side note: Remember that you were searching for a S1 solenoid earlier. Has your solenoid coil been rewired ?

P.S. The standard fuse rating should be 35Amps on both switched & non switched circuits. The solenoid draws around 17Amps initially...
 
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V

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
If you exhaust all suggestions above and your problem persists, here's another:

I read your post above where you said you tested and reused the original wiring harness. I'm unfamiliar with Series I, but on later-production cars, the overdrive has its own loom separate from the main harness. Unless you conducted a thorough continuity test, there is a chance your issue could still be with the loom.

After 60+ years, original wiring becomes brittle (especially exterior) which can lead to unseen internal shorts inside the protective wrapping. To check this, you would need to check each wire's continuity individually, but also against others within the harness since none of the wires share a common electrical pathway. (Presumably your OD loom is separate) Picture this:

Your loom is laying on your bench with 4 wires on the left and another 4 on the right. Connect your ohmmeter to both sides of the relay-to-solenoid wire and see if it maintains good continuity even as you jostle the loom a little. If it does, that's good! But now connect the ohmmeter to a different wire on the right while it remains connected to the left and see if you have continuity (you shouldn't). Repeat this process throughout the loom to assure you have no cross connections (shorts) as each individual wire must have its own pathway.

Now, if the loom is still on the car, a quick and easy test would be to disconnect the relay-to-solenoid wire at both ends and put in a temporary jumper. Take the car for a spin and see if you continue to blow fuses.
 
DaveSeries1

DaveSeries1

Silver Level Sponsor
My fuses are 35amp, no problems unless the overdrive is actuated. As I mentioned before, I disconnect the wire at the solenoid, and it has steady 12vts and lights a test light. connect it to the solenoid, and the fuse blows. I figure that means the solenoid is shorted out. The wires from the relay to the solenoid have been replaced, and there were only two wires. (one to the cut-out switch, and one to the solenoid). I removed the solenoid and took it apart to clean it, cleaned the contact points and tested the coil, all seemed good. put it back in and tested it 6 times and it clicked. took it on the road and the fuse blew. The valve lever moves freely so it's no frozen. I think it pretty much means the solenoid is bad.
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
What kind of relay do you have?
Being an early series OD it shouldn't have the self cancel function or switch ..but wondering if maybe something like the relay is the wrong type and causing issues..
 
DaveSeries1

DaveSeries1

Silver Level Sponsor
All original to the car, does not have the self-cancelling function. Power is good right down to the solenoid.
 
T

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
DaveSeries1 said:
My fuses are 35amp, no problems unless the overdrive is actuated. As I mentioned before, I disconnect the wire at the solenoid, and it has steady 12vts and lights a test light. connect it to the solenoid, and the fuse blows. I figure that means the solenoid is shorted out. The wires from the relay to the solenoid have been replaced, and there were only two wires. (one to the cut-out switch, and one to the solenoid). I removed the solenoid and took it apart to clean it, cleaned the contact points and tested the coil, all seemed good. put it back in and tested it 6 times and it clicked. took it on the road and the fuse blew. The valve lever moves freely so it's no frozen. I think it pretty much means the solenoid is bad.
Click to expand...
Agree, the solenoid is bad. Current flow through devices heats things up and as the internals expand with the heat they make unwanted contact and short out.
 
spmdr

spmdr

Diamond Level Sponsor
There is a major difference between Statically testing the OD electronics standing still

and testing it driving down the road.

The OD has an oil pump that runs off the turning of the output shaft/driveshaft.

The solenoid mechanicals may NOT be movable when the pump is functioning (drive shaft turning, at a high enough speed.).

DW
 
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