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Oil Pressure Regulator Questions

zack

Donation Time
The squarish dump holes look like a custom mod. The spring looks like it is a replacement. The original spring had ~15 coils.

Mike

That would be just lovely if I spent all that time reverse engineering something some random guy did with files in his garage. Might explain why this car seems to have minimal wear yet had lower oil pressure even when the valve was working.

If the Speedy Spares site actually had NOS replacements that would be great...I don't see them either.
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
From the photo, it looks like it was an original tube and the dump holes were modified. Probably an original plunger. I think the parts you have are a good starting point for the design re-work you are doing.

Mike
 

greenbeam

Platinum Level Sponsor
Great stuff gentlemen. Control theory, engineering, materials, and on it goes. Really interesting to read, especially as it concerns one of the regular problems on our cars. Keep up the civilised discussion.

About the only thing I'm able to add is that the original system was designed to a budget, and the story is that the Rootes family were prodigious budgeters. So it may not have been an issue of poor design, rather a time and dollar limitation imposed from above (hands up anyone who hasn't lived that??).

Cheers,
Paul.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
Wow, this has got to be boring some of the readers here, but it's great stuff.

I'm still struggling with the idea that the ball version has more mechanical gain. I've not studied fluid flow in decades but I always try to visualize what is going on in any physics situation. Jarrid writes:

The radius of the ball will act differently as a valve compared to a flat piston moving into a dump port zone. The ball design has more flow paths than just straight into the dump zone and the smoother flow path will pass more oil than a flat piston does with the same cross-sectional area. Flow can exit the dump port from any direction with the same restrictivity due to the radius of the ball whereas with the flat piston, there is a step right at the interface between the flat of the piston and the dump port.

I can't picture that. When the ball is half way across the port, looking from the outside you would see the widest part of the ball centered in the hole and you would see the pressure side hemisphere still partly obstructing your view, similarly partially blocking flow. Another visual: With the ball half way across the port, look into the open end of the tube while having the area outside the tube well lit. Surely you would see less light entering the tube from the outside than you would with a flat piston halfway across the dump port. And when the wide part of the ball finally clears the full port there is still the hemisphere partially blocking the flow. Full flow will not be achieved until the last portion of the ball clears the port. The piston version only needs to move the diameter of the port to go from no flow to full flow. But the ball version needs to move the full port diameter plus half the ball diameter to go from zero to full. That seems to me to be a decreased mechanical gain. I'm sure the graphs of flow vs position is not a straight line for either design, but I can't visualize it being significantly steeper for the ball at any point.

Tom
 

zack

Donation Time
Wow, this has got to be boring some of the readers here, but it's great stuff.

I'm still struggling with the idea that the ball version has more mechanical gain. I've not studied fluid flow in decades but I always try to visualize what is going on in any physics situation. Jarrid writes:



I can't picture that. When the ball is half way across the port, looking from the outside you would see the widest part of the ball centered in the hole and you would see the pressure side hemisphere still partly obstructing your view, similarly partially blocking flow. Another visual: With the ball half way across the port, look into the open end of the tube while having the area outside the tube well lit. Surely you would see less light entering the tube from the outside than you would with a flat piston halfway across the dump port. And when the wide part of the ball finally clears the full port there is still the hemisphere partially blocking the flow. Full flow will not be achieved until the last portion of the ball clears the port. The piston version only needs to move the diameter of the port to go from no flow to full flow. But the ball version needs to move the full port diameter plus half the ball diameter to go from zero to full. That seems to me to be a decreased mechanical gain. I'm sure the graphs of flow vs position is not a straight line for either design, but I can't visualize it being significantly steeper for the ball at any point.

Tom

First, before the physics talk, I need the diameter and location (and quantity) of the dump ports for the design with the bronze tube and the threads at the wrench end so I can redo my design. Thanks in advance to anyone who would be kind enough to do some measurements.

The ball does not have more mechanical advantage; the oil is only pushing the ball one way so the oil pressing against the ball 'towards the center' is negated and it's the same as a plunger of the same diameter. When I first read that comment I thought he was actually talking about the difference between square and round dump ports; now I'm not sure what he was talking about; there is nothing I can see that would be 4x anyway.

I think you are actually both arguing different ends of the same concept, one that certainly has effect but that I think has a very small effect. He is basically saying that if you spray a cube and a baseball with a fire hose the cube will bounce more water back at you, less off to the sides. You are saying that if the items are right at the end of the hose and the baseball is slightly inside the end of the hose then the baseball will cause more restriction, thus reducing the flow.

The issue with the first argument is that the pressure differences are great enough that the "water bouncing back at you" would be almost impossible to measure. It would be measurable in a closed system like we have, but we are still talking pretty small numbers compared to the opening pressure. The issue with the second argument is that the combined cross-sectional area of the ports is smaller than the ball; the maximum flow for the ports is achieved well before the maximum flow for the ball. Basically I'm saying that if you put something small right at the end of a fire hose the water pressure will just fling it out of your hand. I know this is oversimplified, but sometimes physics is easier if you think of things you could do in the real world.

It is useful to remember that pressurized oil is not light. Light bounces at angles and it gets absorbed. Oil is happy to creep up 2 inches of threads if they are not properly sealed. Oil also pushes (I know light does as well but it's hard to detect if you are not in outer space). Pressurized oil will go wherever it can and as long as the restriction isn't significant (like the threads example) then the flow will not be significantly effected.

I really don't think that the ball concept is problematic from a flow or frequency standard. The main issue I have is with the ball-spring interface. I don't really want a spring touching the ball or possibly rocking towards the release ports and jamming as it ages. I also don't want to have to get a mating piece made, or to buy the tooling to do it myself. Given proper materials I believe the wear would be the same between both designs, except that the piston would wear a longer section. The ball would also be better at skipping over ridges, but with enough chamfer the piston would do that well enough, at least up to the point that the tube was so worn that it needed to be replaced anyway.

So basically I'm back to the original piston design, except with a better spring I found. Once (if) I find out what the original dump ports were I'll fine-tune it and either make it or have it made...or if that website actually has NOS OPR's hidden somewhere maybe I'll just buy one of those and leave the final drawings here so that when they run out the next person can go to a machine shop with them.
 

Oldskool979

Donation Time
Opvr

The part number for my series V was 71269824 Oil Pressure Relief Valve. It was 10# plus shipping. (forgot that I ordered 2) I had to call them (011-44-1273-412764) because much of their stuff is not listed. They seem to have a lot of items that our US suppliers show as NLA or out of stock. Heater control valves, heater cores, correct size rear wheel bearings/w seals etc.
 

65beam

Donation Time
regulator

If an owner plans to keep his Sunbeam for several years it's a good idea to stock some parts and the normal repair kits in order to ease the burden and frustration of trying to fix the car if it breaks. The availability of parts is much worse than it was 10 years ago and it will continue to get worse. Alpine production was very low compared to other british cars of the era. For that reason folks like Moss have not ventured into selling Sunbeam parts. Not enough market for the parts. It would be good for everyone if someone would step in and make parts such as this relief valve but the cost for any run of parts would be steep. That's the price we would have to live with unless other owners are willing to help off set the cost. There are other specific items such as front suspension parts that are NLA. SS does have urethane bushings for the cross track rod. This item was NLA for a time. I bought two sets a couple weeks ago to install in what appears to be a new cross track rod. They are very nice. I'm fortunate that I have been able to collect new parts and lots of used items such as engines and trans over the years. If it breaks I can fix it quick. I've bought a lot more stock since these photos were taken. At least 75 % of this stock is new. I have three other garages with used items.
 

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zack

Donation Time
If an owner plans to keep his Sunbeam for several years it's a good idea to stock some parts and the normal repair kits in order to ease the burden and frustration of trying to fix the car if it breaks. The availability of parts is much worse than it was 10 years ago and it will continue to get worse. Alpine production was very low compared to other british cars of the era. For that reason folks like Moss have not ventured into selling Sunbeam parts. Not enough market for the parts. It would be good for everyone if someone would step in and make parts such as this relief valve but the cost for any run of parts would be steep. That's the price we would have to live with unless other owners are willing to help off set the cost. There are other specific items such as front suspension parts that are NLA. SS does have urethane bushings for the cross track rod. This item was NLA for a time. I bought two sets a couple weeks ago to install in what appears to be a new cross track rod. They are very nice. I'm fortunate that I have been able to collect new parts and lots of used items such as engines and trans over the years. If it breaks I can fix it quick. I've bought a lot more stock since these photos were taken. At least 75 % of this stock is new. I have three other garages with used items.

If there really is a place selling OPR's for 10# then no one is going to be making them; the materials would cost that much. I contacted that store and hopefully they have them but if not I guess I'll make one or two. If I do end up making them and they work well at least I can throw some prints online so that others can have them made. That's less of an option with something like bodywork but for a lot of mechanical parts it's better to be able to have something made for a one-off price than to not be able to get it at all.

You say you got an extra one...I hope it is the same model as I'm dealing with. If so, would you mind getting the diameter of the dump ports and the distance up the shaft?
 

husky drvr

Platinum Level Sponsor
Hi folks,

Sorry to get into the discussion about design so late but I would like to throw out a couple of observations.

First, I think the original design OPRV should be reasonably self damping for resonate oscillation due to piston friction and any oil that has migrated into the tube behind the piston. Just thinking that any oil trapped behind the piston will work like a shock absorber (suspension damper) as the piston is trying to force oil through the small vent holes behind the piston.

Second, if you use a ball instead of a piston, this damping will not be possible while the major ball diameter is within the limits of the ports.

Last, everyone seems to be in agreement that the OE design is adequately operative as the OPRV, just the material choices leave room for improvement due to wear. Why not try to use the OE design and just substitute materials? Maybe something like a steel tube with a Teflon or HDPE piston?
 

zack

Donation Time
Hi folks,

Sorry to get into the discussion about design so late but I would like to throw out a couple of observations.

First, I think the original design OPRV should be reasonably self damping for resonate oscillation due to piston friction and any oil that has migrated into the tube behind the piston. Just thinking that any oil trapped behind the piston will work like a shock absorber (suspension damper) as the piston is trying to force oil through the small vent holes behind the piston.

Second, if you use a ball instead of a piston, this damping will not be possible while the major ball diameter is within the limits of the ports.

Last, everyone seems to be in agreement that the OE design is adequately operative as the OPRV, just the material choices leave room for improvement due to wear. Why not try to use the OE design and just substitute materials? Maybe something like a steel tube with a Teflon or HDPE piston?

The oil in the tube after the piston is marginal, even on a worn tube the vents would be more than enough to release any pressure.

When the ball is in the dump port area it is still against the tube in the areas where it isn't drilled (most of it). But yes, a ball would have less friction dampening.

Teflon isn't a material you buy exactly; it is a coating. Cheap enough if you are making 10,000 of something but not realistic for 1 or 2, or even 100.

The wear concern is on both the piston and the shaft; if either wears you are going to get leak-by. The idea with something like this is to get similar hardness between the two, unless the idea is to have replaceable pistons that you change every 10,000mi or something like that.

I really think that my current piston design would do the job well...it would have more dampening than stock, with chamfers to prevent sticking, and both piston and tube could be made of the same material. I just need the dump port diameters and locations. I'm about ready to guesstimate using images since I don't have one to measure and I've not received any replies to requests.
 

65beam

Donation Time
questions

Teflon isn't a material you buy exactly; it is a coating. Cheap enough if you are making 10,000 of something but not realistic for 1 or 2, or even 10

FYI,
Sunbeam Specialties sells the round buttons for use between the leaves of the rear springs. Rick refers to them as being made of "Teflon" . I bought 24 of them last week and they are a thin white disc. Wonder where he gets the Teflon?
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
If so, would you mind getting the diameter of the dump ports and the distance up the shaft?

Zack,

I have a spare OPRV accessible and a high quality caliper. I can get those measurements for you. It will probably be Tuesday night.

Mike
 

zack

Donation Time
Zack,

I have a spare OPRV accessible and a high quality caliper. I can get those measurements for you. It will probably be Tuesday night.

Mike

Thanks Mike!



Sunbeam Specialties sells the round buttons for use between the leaves of the rear springs. Rick refers to them as being made of "Teflon" . I bought 24 of them last week and they are a thin white disc. Wonder where he gets the Teflon?

They are likely using PTFE. This is technically the same compound as Teflon. The difference is in use. You might notice that those little white disks don't look like the black surface on your frying pan. When people talk about Teflon that's generally what they mean and that's what I thought you meant. If it was realistic to do what they do with frying pans to a piston then I'd be all for it. Unfortunately, by itself PTFE is a terrible material for any long-term high-precision use because it sort of melts...that may be the wrong term because it isn't heat related. The stuff is so slippery that you can't add bonding agents. Put it on a bench and come back a year later and it will have different dimensions. Think of how old glass windows look like they are melting...same effect but faster.

There are lots of materials that would work fine, SS isn't the most slippery stuff but it is hard enough to make up for it. 4140 is even harder, especially if heat treated.
 

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
I agree material choice is key.
Stainless has corrosion resistance going for it, but thread galling and work hardening are two minuses for it, with work hardening being a distant second.

Brass and bronze are nice because of corrosion resistance, manageable wear, and the stuff that does wear off is pretty soft, so it won't damage other hardened steel engine parts. Takes solder well, from an OEM repair standpoint.

Pistons made from the right plastic would be worthwhile, but selection would be key. Some slippery ones are not dimensionally stable in the face of heat, water, etc. Plus oil additive reactions would need to be evaluated.

This morning, I found this thread on a machinist site concerning material choice:
http://www.practicalmachinist.com/v...l-choice-brass-steel-1018-steel-12l14-270863/

Plus this discussion from the Alpine Horn from our friends across the pond. (I could see spending a lot of time reading these.)
http://www.saoc.demon.co.uk/Horn%2043.pdf

I'm running a OPR valve modified by the inestimable Mr. Stone, along the lines of the mod shown in this article.

From a design standpoint, I think that if the OEM pistons were chamfered, we wouldn't even be having this discussion -- they would have an elegant failure mode of "yeah, it leaks a little, but its job is to leak" rather than "piston stuck, engine dead".

All for now...
 
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Ragg Mopp

Donation Time
I began experiencing low oil pressure after an engine rebuild. I had a spare and could change it out although doing it in the Post Office parking lot on a hot engine was a bit embarrassing. I examined the stuck open valve and observed scratches so I disassembled and cleaned it. It had a buildup of varnish which I removed. I added a spacer to hopefully raise the oil pressure and reassembled and ran it on the car. Before rebuild it would give 45 lbs hot and after it gave under 40 lbs, even with the added spacer. I took the spare and did the same clean up but put the adjusting screw mod on this one and had the same lower pressure initially but was able to adjust up to the 55 lbs I now run. All of our OPR valves likely have a buildup of varnish and crud from old age and that is adding to the issue. I don't know if there is a cleaner to soak them in to remove the varnish but it would likely help on the sticking issue.
 

zack

Donation Time
Ken sent me some images this morning...it appears that the square port valve actually was made by Sunbeam because he has one too...out of a '67. I guess we discovered a bit of history then!

He believes the square ports were to make a more linear progression, I'd say this is logical. It also might be about faster dumping; a .25" square has more area than a .25" circle and the version with threads at the non-hex end has .305 circular dump holes which make for an even larger area. If the measurements for the round-hole hex-thread-end version are smaller then we would see a progression of larger and larger dump ports.

I talked to Speedy Spares. They only have the later version with the thread at the non-hex end. I guess that means I 'get' to make a few of these after all (at the very least I want to make enough to outlast this engine block).

That said, looking at the pictures of the two versions of the spin-on oil filter body it appears they are virtually identical except that the hole at feed end is larger and with threads. I wonder if it might be possible to modify the housing to accept the later, larger unit...or at the very least, to enlarge the feed end hole enough to accommodate a larger diameter custom made valve that would have room for a larger diameter spring. Die springs are not much more expensive than basic piano wire springs and they would probably last forever in something like this, plus they would allow for more pressure at the high end for those who prefer this...but they start at .375" diam and that would make the walls less than 0.05" thick with the stock diameter, even if they just rode on the top of a flat piston (I'd like to have the spring partly inside a hole drilled into the top of the piston to keep it located and not rubbing on the wall of the tube, and I'd also like to have a chamfer between the edge of the piston and this hole). I could probably get away with a .020" chamfer...that plus a .020" space between the chamfer and the hole plus the hole gives a minimum ID for a .375 spring of .455" and the stock OD is .468"..the tube walls would be thinner than good printer paper. If the OD was 5/8" things would be a lot easier...probably why they changed the OD when they went to the new valve style. That's probably why the moved the threads too...5/8" wouldn't clear the stock threads. 9/16 would and that would give walls that were 0.04725"...thinner than I'd like but maybe possible.

At the very least, going to a 9/16 hole would allow for a larger inlet and larger dumps...something that they must have thought important since the later models had larger dumps.

After all this, I am back to considering 932 bronze for the pistons and tubes. The combination of easy machining, slippery movement, and corrosion resistance are all appealing and it sounds like most of the wear issues with the steps are on the steel versions, not the brass ones. Adding the piston chamfers would make the wear less on an issue anyway. Plus, in a car that is driven so little that the tires get replaced with 3/4 tread left due to aging, I don't need something that will last 200,000 miles...dino juice probably won't even exist when this car has done 100,000 miles.
 

zack

Donation Time
I began experiencing low oil pressure after an engine rebuild. I had a spare and could change it out although doing it in the Post Office parking lot on a hot engine was a bit embarrassing. I examined the stuck open valve and observed scratches so I disassembled and cleaned it. It had a buildup of varnish which I removed. I added a spacer to hopefully raise the oil pressure and reassembled and ran it on the car. Before rebuild it would give 45 lbs hot and after it gave under 40 lbs, even with the added spacer. I took the spare and did the same clean up but put the adjusting screw mod on this one and had the same lower pressure initially but was able to adjust up to the 55 lbs I now run. All of our OPR valves likely have a buildup of varnish and crud from old age and that is adding to the issue. I don't know if there is a cleaner to soak them in to remove the varnish but it would likely help on the sticking issue.

Carb cleaner would probably do the job. A few people have reported such things on new builds, it may be that some common part is shipped with a coating that is meant to be cleaned off before assembly? Unfortunately, cleaning these is only a band-aid. You don't get this on a 50-year old chevy with 100,000 miles, you don't get them from a 50-year old VW with 50,000 miles, or even from a 30-year old Toyota with 200,000 miles but you do get it on a 50-year old Alpine with 30,000 miles.
 

65beam

Donation Time
questions

Did you notice the photo of the new still sealed in the bag valve I posted? Round holes. It's possible the valves with the square holes were made by an aftermarket source and this was done for cost reasons.
 

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Oldskool979

Donation Time
Opvr

The dump port on the series V valve is .316 inch and is 1.275 off the back of the top nut to the ctr of the hole. The small hole is .089 inch and .530 off the back of the top nut.
 

hartmandm

Moderator
Diamond Level Sponsor
The dump port on the series V valve is .316 inch and is 1.275 off the back of the top nut to the ctr of the hole. The small hole is .089 inch and .530 off the back of the top nut.

The dump holes on my original OPRV and spare OPRV are 1/4" diameter (diff than Oldskool's measurement). The small holes are 0.9" or 3/32" (same as Oldskool).

I see differences in the distances from the bolt head to the holes' centers. We could be measuring from different points. Give me a bit to create a diagram.

Mike
 
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