New rebuild, I may soon have problems!

[Tom H]

Andrew,

I assume you HAVE checked all other possible sources of leakage around the thermostat, using dry tissue. Even without removing the housing it could have developed leaks. Plus there is a joint at the top of the thermostat housing where the thermostat goes, and lastly there is a potential leak at the temp sensor.

Tom

 

[Jim E]

Most parts stores carry two brand of this stuff, KW at least that is the name I recall same folks who make the copper spray for head gaskets. The other brand comes in a very simalare can and both the directions are pretty much the same. LIttle short can black and bronze color. Do not know anything about the Bars stuff.

The block seal requires you have just water in the system, so if you have not gone to just water do so and I would flush it again before doing this to get all the coolant out. In the mean time run the water a while and keep looking for the source of the leak in case it is not the head to block area.

If you use the block seal follow the directions to the letter or at least pretty close. More or less it tells you about the just water deal add the can of stuff run the car to operating temprature and drain the system leaving the it open to the air for something like 24 hours or some such. If it freaks you out about the radiator having this stuff in it and you have a spare junk radiator I wouold swap them out so you everyday unit does not have it in it. But... when my V6 car was a four cylinder it had a foot long crack in the block and I ran this stuff thru it with the same radiator in it that is in it today and it cools fine. By the way it sealed the foot long crack up. Never the less it is not magic goop and may not seal your leak....

 

[Andrew]

Hi Jim,

Well I think I found the fix. I did a little arm wisting on the bolts for the filter housing and water pump. Checked everything and I think she is all up and running.

It seems as soon as I go poking around I find things. I had an NOS fuel pump and installed it during the rebuild. Some may remember my problems I had with the old S3 fuel valve shut off that would leak or shut off on its own, not good when you are zipping down the road. Well, I installed this new fuel pump and I now find it spitting a little fuel at the inlet/fuel pipe. It is almost like the pump may have a hairline crack in the casing around the beyond the inlet.

I guess NOS is not always the best way. I will now be required to pull the darn thing off and inspect it.

So, anyone have a good fuel pump?

Regards,
Andrew

 

[jbiii52111]

I am at this point!

Andrew,

I was wondering if you would be so kind to share, or Jim, your experiences. I need motivation. I really need to remove it, and am at the point of taking to shop on trailer.

You quoted
"When I did the rebuild I did not remove the thermostat housing gizmo from the head as I know all to well that they can be a problem."

Which for me may be the best answer, just don't have the trailer, the $, and strike 3 the wife. Which is why I did not enter the contest, good reads though. If so, would be open to discussing what else I should ask to be done at/from this point.

thanks in advance,

jbiii

Hi Jim,

I took the car out for a good run last night after I tightend all of the hose clamps in the location where I see the coolant.
At first I thought I had the fix but after quite a long run in the car and after the car sitting (running) in the drive I began to see a small amount of coolant in the same location.

When I did the rebuild I did not remove the thermostat housing gizmo from the head as I know all to well that they can be a problem.

It took a good 45mins before I started to see the coolant showing in the same area. I only assume the I must have cleaned or polished the top of the block and head too smooth???? As you can see by this comment, it is all new to me.

Is the KW Block seal similar to Bar's Leaks Head Gasket Fix?
I will check and see if I can find the KW product.

Regards,
Andrew