New guy here

[sunalp]

I’ll have to learn lead so that it matches

Good luck with that. Lead is old technology that really isn't available anymore. There are "leads" out there
and Eastwood sell some, but they are not easy to work with. There are great fillers out there , much easier
to work with and if done properly will last just as long as lead.

Your car has pretty heavy corrosion on the pictures you've posted. There's really only one way to remove
and that's to grind it off. Once you get that off, you need to clean it and condition it and coat it with epoxy
primer which will keep the rust a bay. Your looks like a pretty big project and looks as though it's spent
time outside. How are the floors?

Where in NJ are you? I'm in NY, about an hour or so north on NYC.

Cheers!
Steve

 

[alpine_64]

You mean like this Michael?!
Would be nice if Matt owned the missing Sebring car. Still kick myself for passing up a chance to buy one for $900. I just didn't know the info behind them....
Matt does the chassis number stamped on the firewall match the number on the data plate?

Eric, thats what was crossing my mind.. Rhd SII.... Wedgewood blue with spotlights.. Thought possible vin switch to register car after the event ...

 

[Bill Blue]

When I don into rust repair I’ll have to learn lead so that it matches .

Learn to lead? Are you serious? Can anyone tell the difference after the job is completed? I thought the idea of filling was to make the joint "disappear".

It is interesting to see how the factory finished the joints. I am constantly amazed at the general poor quality of stampings and how much hand work went into these cars. Semi-precise panels assembled by craftsmen.

Bill

 

[Bill Blue]

Good luck with that. Lead is old technology that really isn't available anymore. There are "leads" out there
and Eastwood sell some, but they are not easy to work with. There are great fillers out there , much easier
to work with and if done properly will last just as long as lead.

Your car has pretty heavy corrosion on the pictures you've posted. There's really only one way to remove
and that's to grind it off. Once you get that off, you need to clean it and condition it and coat it with epoxy
primer which will keep the rust a bay. Your looks like a pretty big project and looks as though it's spent
time outside. How are the floors?

Where in NJ are you? I'm in NY, about an hour or so north on NYC.

Cheers!
Steve

Steve, how about using phosphoric acid to remove the rust? It should leave the metal ready for primer or filler.

Bill

 

[sunalp]

Steve, how about using phosphoric acid to remove the rust?

Bill, that is surely a option, just don't know about the safety (fumes and such) of using acid, but I know it's used to remove
corrosion from fuel tanks, so not unheard of. Rust is just one of those things that is tough to eradicate. Once it starts,
it's difficult to keep it away. Actually, the phosphoric acid would indeed make the metal "clean" for a good coating of primer.
The problem I see with corrosion like on this car is where would the acid stop? It just might keep reacting all the way through
the metal. I still like the idea of grinding ( really sanding with say 80 grit and a good DA) to get to relatively clean metal, the cleaning that
further. It's probably quicker too.
Steve

 

[Bill Blue]

Bill, that is surely a option, just don't know about the safety (fumes and such) of using acid, but I know it's used to remove
corrosion from fuel tanks, so not unheard of. Rust is just one of those things that is tough to eradicate. Once it starts,
it's difficult to keep it away. Actually, the phosphoric acid would indeed make the metal "clean" for a good coating of primer.
The problem I see with corrosion like on this car is where would the acid stop? It just might keep reacting all the way through
the metal. I still like the idea of grinding ( really sanding with say 80 grit and a good DA) to get to relatively clean metal, the cleaning that
further. It's probably quicker too.
Steve

Phosphoric acid is very user friendly. pH is about 3. It is slow acting, fumes are easily handled. It etches good metal, which promotes good paint adhesion, but does not readily eat it away. A simple water rinse completely stops its action, as opposed to hydrochloric acid, which seems to be unstopable unless it is neutralized . In fact, treated metal should painted as soon as the part is dry, rust will resume after a few days.
Bill

 

[MatthewTornetta]

Several good ideas. I will most likely start with sanding to get the majority then go the Pho acid as a prep for primer. It’ll be a slow process in my off time. Also I was asked my location. I’m just south of McGuire AFB/Ft. Dix. Almost smack dab in the center of the state. An hour east of Philly and two hours and a little change south of NYC.

 

[puff4]

Soda blasting is another possibility.

 

[Bill Eisinger]

I’ll have to learn lead so that it matches

I wouldn't recommend it....on my Series I V6 conversion project we have removed 80 pounds of lead that a previous owner slathered on the car attempting to fix the body work the "old fashioned" way! My body guy is thrilled as he plans to re-use it for fishing weights.

As far as cleaning up the rust on the car goes, take it to a good media blaster....the investment will be well worth your time and the results achieved. The two main options are soda or sand...plus/minus with both...sand is more aggressive and will achieve the best results...downside is that an inexperienced blaster can warp body panels from the friction induced heat but most reputable places know how to do it properly. The other downside to sand is that it gets everywhere....takes a fair amount of effort with a compressed air hose to blow it all out.

Soda on the other hand is not quite as aggressive but a much easier cleanup...the downside to soda is that the car needs to be thoroughly cleaned with water to remove the residue (which will react negatively with paint) and then you have a potential issue with flash rust....there are additives to use with the retard the rust....a good painter will know how to deal with that.

Good luck and post pictures as you progress!