My sons 53 Meteor

[Chuck Ingram]

Well the shell is in Epoxy primer finally
All the rust is done. Front floors. Rocker panels. Bottom drop of rear quarters. The back lip of the rear is done as well
Have to leave it for awhile now

Can't figure why my pics end upside down

 

[MikeH]

And it is apparently suspended from the ceiling.

 

[99ZoomR]

hope this helps...

 

[KenDemp]

That's pretty cool! Can you get the panels for that, or did you have to fabricate them?

 

[Chuck Ingram]

That's pretty cool! Can you get the panels for that, or did you have to fabricate them?

The front floor boards. The rocker panels were bought from Macs antique auto
I still need to do front fenders with proper patch panels from Macs.
Toe board repair panels I fabricated as well as the rear fender owner sections. The lip,at the rear I fabricated as well.once the shell is painted I can work on the hood. Trunk and doors which are rust free. Hopefully by spring I will be mounting the shell back on the completely finished chassis.

 

[MikeH]

Just saw a '53 Ford 2 door sedan at the local Winn Dixie last night. Really nice car. It was restored 3 years ago. Still had the original motor. Sounded good with Cherry Bombs on it. Interesting, that the roof line didn't change from the 2 door sedan to the 4 door.

 

[Chuck Ingram]

Just saw a '53 Ford 2 door sedan at the local Winn Dixie last night. Really nice car. It was restored 3 years ago. Still had the original motor. Sounded good with Cherry Bombs on it. Interesting, that the roof line didn't change from the 2 door sedan to the 4 door.

We kept the original motor. It had 37000 miles. Runs like a clock with decent oil pressure

 

[V6 JOSE]

Hi Chuck,

Is it a flat head V8, or a flat head six? I used to own a 1953 Mercury tudoe post, that I rebuilt the old flathead. The car was absolutely straight and rust free. I loved that car.

Jose

We kept the original motor. It had 37000 miles. Runs like a clock with decent oil pressure

 

[Chuck Ingram]

Hi Chuck,

Is it a flat head V8, or a flat head six? I used to own a 1953 Mercury tudoe post, that I rebuilt the old flathead. The car was absolutely straight and rust free. I loved that car.

Jose

Hi Jose
It's the flat head V8. Started sanding the gray primer down to,the epoxy black primer yesterday..can only do a bit here and there right now. Making sure I mark all the minor defects with tape as I go other wise would probably miss some of the very minor ones when I'm ready to take care of them.

 

[Chuck Ingram]

Well I have made some progress. After sanding everything I Sprayed 3 coats of a two part primer.
Now to really start block sanding and finding any imperfections. The primer sands really nice and easy. Need to mark anything I find with a pencil or I will miss them or forget where they were. After that 2 full coats of epoxy primer and wet sand

 

[Chuck Ingram]

Wow..

Ready to spray the epoxy primer. I'm using black as it gives a better base for the green color.

 

[DanR]

Out of curiosity! Seems to me that the Canadian built Ford/Mercury s had different chrome and lights than the US ones....Kind-a-liked the style!

Is that true or am I dreaming?...

 

[Chuck Ingram]

Out of curiosity! Seems to me that the Canadian built Ford/Mercury s had different chrome and lights than the US ones....Kind-a-liked the style!

Is that true or am I dreaming?...

Dam
Mostly the grill and badging are different

 

[Chuck Ingram]

I have been somewhat busy
The shell is painted. Door posts and firewall are clear coated. Now to move the shell out and get all the rest of the body parts in

I am using urethane which will be color sanded,polished and clear coated when everything is assembled

 

[Bill Blue]

I have been somewhat busy
The shell is painted. Door posts and firewall are clear coated. Now to move the shell out and get all the rest of the body parts in

I am using urethane which will be color sanded,polished and clear coated when everything is assembled

Chuck, I don't know if it is productive to color sand and polish if your going to clear coat. I found that clear coat that was sanded with 400 grit would become utterly transparent with no sign of sanding scratches when covered with fresh clear coat. I would experiment before going to all that trouble.

Besides, paint does not like to adhere to a really smooth surface.

Bill

 

[Chuck Ingram]

Chuck, I don't know if it is productive to color sand and polish if your going to clear coat. I found that clear coat that was sanded with 400 grit would become utterly transparent with no sign of sanding scratches when covered with fresh clear coat. I would experiment before going to all that trouble.

Besides, paint does not like to adhere to a really smooth surface.

Bill

The green is the color. I am well schooled in sanding as
I was a painter all my life. My specialty was high end woodwork.I did a lot of custom work you use a thinner clear coat for the first coat of the clear over the polished paint.
I'm looking for depth of color

 

[Mike O'D]

I'm not an expert at painting woodwork or cars, but I have been doing a lot of reading about painting cars. "Color sanding" is a misnomer - it's the clear that gets sanded, not the color. Get some books or talk to some experts to see what best practices are.

Mike

 

[Chuck Ingram]

I'm not an expert at painting woodwork or cars, but I have been doing a lot of reading about painting cars. "Color sanding" is a misnomer - it's the clear that gets sanded, not the color. Get some books or talk to some experts to see what best practices are.

Mike

Normally that is true. I am using urethane paint. This will be sanded and polished. Then clear coated. I have painted at least 10 or more cars. My old neighbor had his shop and they produced best of paint awards more than once. This is a much slower and possible more complicated method. First coat of clear must be quite thin and reduced with slow recucer to,enable the paint to bite. Then second and third coat of clear. That of course then will be sanded and polished
Bill
400 grit is still too coarse. 1500 or 2000 grit is for sanding clear before polishing

 

[Bill Blue]

Normally that is true. I am using urethane paint. This will be sanded and polished. Then clear coated. I have painted at least 10 or more cars. My old neighbor had his shop and they produced best of paint awards more than once. This is a much slower and possible more complicated method. First coat of clear must be quite thin and reduced with slow recucer to,enable the paint to bite. Then second and third coat of clear. That of course then will be sanded and polished
Bill
400 grit is still too coarse. 1500 or 2000 grit is for sanding clear before polishing

Chuck, I wasn't polishing. I was recoating the clear. 400 worked just fine and also happens to be the recommended grit for producing a paintable surface. Although some contend 400 is too fine and use 320.

My color coat has a lot of metallic and cannot be color sanded.

Bill

 

[Chuck Ingram]

Chuck, I wasn't polishing. I was recoating the clear. 400 worked just fine and also happens to be the recommended grit for producing a paintable surface. Although some contend 400 is too fine and use 320.

My color coat has a lot of metallic and cannot be color sanded.

Bill

Hi Bil
Yes a metallic paint would look like hell if you tried sanding it.clear recoating is not too hard I would not go down to 320. Not sure but I believe there is a little better grit for sanding clear coat than 400. seems I saw it on the shelve at the auto paint store I deal,with. Then in all it might just have been 400 grit. I always have sandpaper in the cupboard. From 36 grit all the way to 2000 grit Imget nervous I get nervous when a sleeve gets downto,about 20 sheets and Immust have to buy more. This goes as well as paint. Activators and reducers.