Lots of Alpine Bits

[britbits]

We have a number of bits available

S2 Head
S2 carb
S2 Intake
S2 Tail light Assmbly
SV rear hub
Plastic reproduction Dash fascia
Gauges

Pls email docante@&aol.com for more information

 

[afssanders]

Hi
I noticed you have some gauges, so I figure this might not be a stretch. I'm looking the plastic bezels that surround the toggle switches on the dash. Or if you know where I could find them that would be awesome too.

 

[alpine_64]

Kip motors reproduce all the switch escutheons (plastic labels) but they are not cheap and you really have to keep an eye out on the quality, make sure they do not sell you a sub-standard set, for thye price they should be spot on.

 

[skywords]

Kip are nice folks but my early series cast lower tail light lenses were warped like bananas. I did not bitch because where else do you go?

 

[afssanders]

Switches and bezels.

Kip motors reproduce all the switch escutheons (plastic labels) but they are not cheap and you really have to keep an eye out on the quality, make sure they do not sell you a sub-standard set, for thye price they should be spot on.

This is awesome. Thank you very much. I found the website and they are expensive, but what's a guy going to do? I would have two weeks of work making my own.

I think you might know the answer to another one of my problems. I have a moto lita wheel coming for the car, but it's just the wheel. Do you where I might the other parts required to get it to fit my column?

Here's my car. Go to the last page for the most recent pictures.
http://gallery.me.com/mnwheelers#100309

 

[Alpine 1789]

Kip motors reproduce all the switch escutheons (plastic labels) but they are not cheap and you really have to keep an eye out on the quality, make sure they do not sell you a sub-standard set, for they price they should be spot on.

I recently bought a set of these from Kip and sent them back. They were scratched and the quality of the casting was not, in my opinion, worth $100. Plus, the white paint in the lettering was fuzzy on some of them and there was probably no easy way to repaint them. This set was 'on the shelf' but they generally produce them as ordered.

Kip is supposed to be looking into making me a new set, but it has been two weeks since I sent them back and asked them to try again and I don't have a definitive answer from them. I have decided to wait until after the first of the year, then ask for my money back if they still can't tell me if they can do better or not. I have been holding off writing up this experience until I knew the outcome and will update this when we settle one way or the other.

I will say that no one would probably notice the flaws once they were installed and a couple of feet away, but I expected better based on the price and their reputation.

 

[P. Scofield]

And why did we "widen" our Alpine? Looks like very well done work.

Paul

This is awesome. Thank you very much. I found the website and they are expensive, but what's a guy going to do? I would have two weeks of work making my own.

I think you might know the answer to another one of my problems. I have a moto lita wheel coming for the car, but it's just the wheel. Do you where I might the other parts required to get it to fit my column?

Here's my car. Go to the last page for the most recent pictures.
http://gallery.me.com/mnwheelers#100309

 

[Lee DeRamus saoca0404]

Where did you get the Moto Lita wheel from? I bought mine from The Little British Car Co. and was able to get the hub with it. If you want the horn to work by the center of wheel, horn push, you must destroy the old wheel to get the brass ring inside it. Or possibly make another. I got tired of the Moto Lita decal in the center of the horn button, and used the metal emblem from a key fob. It has to be the one that the bottom 1/4 is green. Cut off the ears that hold it to the fob, and file. Touch up with silver paint. Since I had a "hoppy" type nickel plater, I plated the bare spots on mine. Silicone will glue it to the plastic center. This is the only one that is the exact size for the indentation on the center. I will have to look at my wheel to remember what else I did to it to improve it for the Sunbeam.
Lee

 

[afssanders]

Sunbeam parts help

Where did you get the Moto Lita wheel from? I bought mine from The Little British Car Co. and was able to get the hub with it. If you want the horn to work by the center of wheel, horn push, you must destroy the old wheel to get the brass ring inside it. Or possibly make another. I got tired of the Moto Lita decal in the center of the horn button, and used the metal emblem from a key fob. It has to be the one that the bottom 1/4 is green. Cut off the ears that hold it to the fob, and file. Touch up with silver paint. Since I had a "hoppy" type nickel plater, I plated the bare spots on mine. Silicone will glue it to the plastic center. This is the only one that is the exact size for the indentation on the center. I will have to look at my wheel to remember what else I did to it to improve it for the Sunbeam.
Lee

A friend is selling it to me for 200 It's off his MGA. I'll check too see if I can find the company on the web now. Thank you for the help.

Do you think there is a way to pin point the year of a Sunbeam by the serial number on the firewall? Do you know where I might be able to find that info?

 

[alpine_64]

This is awesome. Thank you very much. I found the website and they are expensive, but what's a guy going to do? I would have two weeks of work making my own.

I think you might know the answer to another one of my problems. I have a moto lita wheel coming for the car, but it's just the wheel. Do you where I might the other parts required to get it to fit my column?

Here's my car. Go to the last page for the most recent pictures.
http://gallery.me.com/mnwheelers#100309

The hubs for a SI/II and the 3-V re different, the later being adjustable. If you have an early car or later you can get a hb direct from mota-lita (not cheap) and i think Sunbeam Specialities lists thm.. not sure about the other suppliers. If you have an early series car it wont be adjustable.. which means you can hunt around and find a similar splined hub from another car to work (i have heard mazda rx4 works.. not 100% sure though)

 

[bobw]

Do you think there is a way to pin point the year of a Sunbeam by the serial number on the firewall? Do you know where I might be able to find that info?

On the main page of this web site, click on Technical Data -> Production Build Dates. You might also want to take a look at Technical Data -> Alpine Identification Tips.

Bob W.

 

[puff4]

Although... if you're talking about the painted tag on the vertical firewall (not the aluminum one on the top of the firewall), I'm not sure there's a way to find out... I've never heard of any relationship between that painted-tag number and the 'official' VIN.

 

[afssanders]

sunbeam tags

Although... if you're talking about the painted tag on the vertical firewall (not the aluminum one on the top of the firewall), I'm not sure there's a way to find out... I've never heard of any relationship between that painted-tag number and the 'official' VIN.

Ok. Here's my deal. I bought the one I modified from a junkyard in AZ. I have a title that some title agent do down there made, but the guy that wrote the title didn't know much about Sunbeams. He thought it was a 65, which it's totally not. He also used my body tag for the VIN( a 4 digit number).
I went to my local DMV today and I can fix his mistakes by filling out a form that will adjust the title for the correct VIN number and year, but I have to have my sh&^t together before going back. I liked to know the year. I figure it's between a 60 and 62
I have a late 63 Sunbeam that I've used for a donor for my modification and they used the serial number on the firewall as the VIN number.
I have three numbers on my modified Sunbeam.

1. a body tag.
2. a serial number stamped on the firewall.
3. the number behind the driver seat.

Which number do they normally use for the VIN?

Correct if I'm wrong. I believe the Sunbeam I have modified is not a 63 it's hood doesn't open all the way, the hood rod is on the top of firewall and it's missing the vent windows.

 

[bobw]

1. a body tag.
2. a serial number stamped on the firewall.
3. the number behind the driver seat.

Which number do they normally use for the VIN?

The VIN is the number on the data tag on top surface under the hood (near the firewall). It starts with a 'B' and is followed by a 7 digit number. 90- - - for series I, 91- - - for series II and 92- - - for series III. It was also stamped on the firewall in some early models. See Technical Data -> Alpine Identification Tips

Bob W.

 

[afssanders]

serial number

Thanks Bob. You've been very helpful.