Leaking Alpine

[Scott Rodrigues]

Woke up this morning and it's raining! I didn't expect it to and it's not too bad. Went outside and checked the car and there's water on the front floors in odd places. Cleaned it up quick and really mad about it right now, hate water in the car. My question is, what are the known points that water can enter an Alpine if not checked, fixed or maybe even upgraded (Mine is a Series IV)?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Woke up this morning and it's raining! I didn't expect it to and it's not too bad. Went outside and checked the car and there's water on the front floors in odd places. Cleaned it up quick and really mad about it right now, hate water in the car. My question is, what are the known points that water can enter an Alpine if not checked, fixed or maybe even upgraded (Mine is a Series IV)?

Thanks in advance!

The cowl vents! The grills in front of the wind screen is a major point. To fix this I went to a sign store and got enough magnetic sign material to put over the vents.

 

[DanR]

If yours is a SIV it should not have the fresh air vents like the SV's.

The Alpine has a tendency to leak in odd places. Just get in side when it is raining and enjoy it

 

[alpine_64]

There are a few places that water comes in depending on series. Also the strength of rain and if its strong wind/ fast driving also changes situation.

Firstly all the weather seals Should be the correct profilez and good condition. Often the seals like the ones on the a-post amd boot are profiled in a certain way to guidd the water down and out to drainage points. If incorrect, dmaaged the water will leak inside.

On your car id check the A post seals down the side of the screen. Make sure they are the coreect cupped blade profile and return down and under the scuttle and they are sealing correctly against the 1/4 window . Make sure the blade seals are correct and facing out on the door drain channel.

Make sure the seal at the base of the windscreen is tight to the body and has caulking cord packing it.

Make sure the soft top header seal is seated correctly.

Make sure the windscreen seal is not crazed or shrunk especially around the corners.

While your car shouldn't have the frensh air vents in the scuttle if the drains there a blocked that feed water back to the drainage channel around the bonnet it could allow water to come back in via the heater core or the seam of the pressing bellow the scuttle, especially if car was parked nose up.

Water can enter via the B post area if the soft rop frame at the rear vertical edge of the side window is not straight and sealing.

Make sure the drain tubes in the softtop drain channel are not blocked ( also make sure drain hoze is there)

 

[Silver Creek Sunbeam]

When I got my Alpine, the grommets under the windshield washer nozzles were loose, which allowed water to get in and wet the carpet under the dash.

 

[65beam]

Gordon hit on the problem that is most common. The scuttle vents allow air to flow to the heater fan. There are gaps that can only be seen when the dash/fan are out. These gaps were sealed at the factory using seam sealer. The second problem is that the heater fan unit has a foam seal between the body and the fan unit. The foam hardens and crumbles to dust which means you no longer have a seal. This seal is available from a UK supplier. This photo of my series 4 gives you an idea of the areas that need seam sealer. That includes just about every seam that you see which is what was done to this car. The A post rubber seals tend to leak where the wing window meets the body at the windshield frame. As Michael said concerning the correct seal profile , you'll find Sunbeam Specialties and Classic Sunbeam are the only suppliers in the states with seals that fit. Another thing that happens is that many incorrectly install the seal around the door. I noticed several at the United that were not positioned right.

 

[beamdream]

If yours is a SIV it should not have the fresh air vents like the SV's.

The Alpine has a tendency to leak in odd places. Just get in side when it is raining and enjoy it

Don't forget the soap ☔

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

Gordon hit on the problem that is most common. The scuttle vents allow air to flow to the heater fan. There are gaps that can only be seen when the dash/fan are out. These gaps were sealed at the factory using seam sealer. The second problem is that the heater fan unit has a foam seal between the body and the fan unit. The foam hardens and crumbles to dust which means you no longer have a seal. This seal is available from a UK supplier. This photo of my series 4 gives you an idea of the areas that need seam sealer. That includes just about every seam that you see which is what was done to this car. The A post rubber seals tend to leak where the wing window meets the body at the windshield frame. As Michael said concerning the correct seal profileView attachment 17170 , you'll find Sunbeam Specialties and Classic Sunbeam are the only suppliers in the states with seals that fit. Another thing that happens is that many incorrectly install the seal around the door. I noticed several at the United that were not positioned right.

Bob hit on what I am doing on my Alpine I have been doing the interior and engine bay. I have wire brushed rusterised the floors removed the dash and done all of the seams with seam sealer. The heater can leak I re sealed the heater area. Another problem area is the rubber liner under the heater core there is a nipple on the liner over time will rot through. The nipple fits into the duckbill drain if it is shot the carpets get wet.

 

[Scott Rodrigues]

Bob hit on what I am doing on my Alpine I have been doing the interior and engine bay. I have wire brushed rusterised the floors removed the dash and done all of the seams with seam sealer. The heater can leak I re sealed the heater area. Another problem area is the rubber liner under the heater core there is a nipple on the liner over time will rot through. The nipple fits into the duckbill drain if it is shot the carpets get wet.

Can I remove the heater core without taking out the dashboard?

 

[Jimjordan2]

Yes, the heater core comes out through the cover of the hood latch. If the ends are swollen from pressure, it can make it difficult to remove. You may have to push in on the ends of the heater core. Otherwise a real easy changeover.

 

[RootesRooter]

Is there a hint of antifreeze aroma? If so, the pull rod for the hood latch also has to be removed before you can get the heater core out.

Or is it dripping on your left knee and/or foot? That would be the A-post seals.