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information required on weber conversions

J

John G

Silver Level Sponsor
My series 5 has a 28/32 weber on it and have had a few problems so have got a weber 32/36 to try. The replacement carb is missing the choke system. My question is will I need one?
I am told that most people remove the choke (this is in general not alpines). I am asking is this true or is it normal to run a choke on alpines?
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
John G said:
My series 5 has a 28/32 weber on it and have had a few problems so have got a weber 32/36 to try. The replacement carb is missing the choke system. My question is will I need one?
I am told that most people remove the choke (this is in general not alpines). I am asking is this true or is it normal to run a choke on alpines?
Click to expand...

Depends entirely on your climate and the state of tune of the carb to nominal conditions. The choke helps start the engine in cold weather. If you tune to run the engine with 70 degree F ambient temp, it will probably start fine at temps above 50 degrees F. If it needs to be started below 40 degrees F, it may need the choke to keep it running till the engine stabilizes.
 
RootesRich

RootesRich

Donation Time
Before spending the time changing to a larger Weber DGV, may I ask what issues you are having with the 28/32 and are you sure they are carb related?
 
J

John G

Silver Level Sponsor
More details on the Weber conversion

In general forums it seems that the 32 / 36 is the most common option.
Problems are is we have to choke it to get it started and the revs are rough at about 4-500. Once all warmed it idles at 13-1500. It always has a pool of fuel from the overflow from the inlet manifold. Ambient temps for Adelaide South Australia ranges 5 deg C to max 45 deg C (41 to 113 deg F).
My wife is the regular driver and I'm looking to gain better power with reliability and in ease of regular starting.
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Sounds like you need to get the carb sorted before you worry about if it can work without a choke.

Idle should be 800 or so RPM. If you set it there, its unlikley to idle at all when cold on your setup. If you are running lean when hot, its really going to be tough to a good idle when cold.

If you do have a choke fitted, you have the benefit of having an adjustable high speed operation when the choke is pulled.
This gives you progressively more throttle at higher amounts of choke engagement and helps the engine idle at a reasonable RPM when choked and very cold.

Not having a choke would only benefit you if you are racing or trying to get that last horsepower or so. Too bad Weber didnt design an enrichment device for the DGV like used on the DCOE and IDA/F carbs.
 
alpine_64

alpine_64

Donation Time
John,

Sounds like the issues you have a more than just the carb.. you really need to do a full check of what is going on. Start with all the basics: check timing, mixtures, spark,leads etc.. .. also is it possible you have a vac leak?

As for the carb, the 28/32 while on the smaller side provides good economy and should run fine on your motor (my dad has been running the same on his in melbourne for 18 years without issue.. we ditched the auto choke off it as well)

As mentioned your idle is to low.. should be at least 750 and no more than 1000 (ideal is 750-900) Have you spoken to the South Australian Sunbeam guys, they have quite a good club and are very helpful.
 
T

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
When you say it is "missing a choke system" , do you mean it does not even have the choke plate, the rotating plate across the throttle intake? Or do you mean it has no mechanism to operate that choke? I have a 32 /36 that originally had an electric control on the choke but was removed before I bought it. I was able to connect a cable to make a manual choke control. It works fine, but has no throttle advance so for the first couple min after starting I need to keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to maintain idle speed until it warms up. But tat's a minor inconvenience

Tom
 
R

RootesRacer

Donation Time
Tom H said:
When you say it is "missing a choke system" , do you mean it does not even have the choke plate, the rotating plate across the throttle intake? Or do you mean it has no mechanism to operate that choke? I have a 32 /36 that originally had an electric control on the choke but was removed before I bought it. I was able to connect a cable to make a manual choke control. It works fine, but has no throttle advance so for the first couple min after starting I need to keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to maintain idle speed until it warms up. But tat's a minor inconvenience

Tom
Click to expand...

Comment deleted
 
RootesRich

RootesRich

Donation Time
alpine_64 said:
Sounds like the issues you have a more than just the carb.. you really need to do a full check of what is going on. Start with all the basics: check timing, mixtures, spark,leads etc.. .. also is it possible you have a vac leak?

As mentioned your idle is to low.. should be at least 750 and no more than 1000 (ideal is 750-900) Have you spoken to the South Australian Sunbeam guys, they have quite a good club and are very helpful.
Click to expand...

I agree with Michael. I suspect you're going to experience similar cold/ warm idling issues by just swapping DGVs.
 
J

John G

Silver Level Sponsor
weber choke

Hi All

Thanks for all your help.

The 32/36 is missing choke plate and linkage etc. so will be unable to choke it at all.

I guess I will swap it over and see what happens.

John
 
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