-
Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.
If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.
Enjoy.
How about a cheap replacement rad for an Alpine?
- Thread starter MARTINSR
- Start date
Mikeflbmer
Bronze Level Sponsor
Mercedes Radiator
I have a mercedes radiator in mine, but don't know what year....It was in an Alpine that I brought home to flip....swapped radiators and a few other bits before I sold it...the Previous Owner told me it was out of an old Mercedes...tried unsuccesfully to add a picture here but couldn't.....email me at mikeflbmer@yahoo.com if you want a picture
I have a mercedes radiator in mine, but don't know what year....It was in an Alpine that I brought home to flip....swapped radiators and a few other bits before I sold it...the Previous Owner told me it was out of an old Mercedes...tried unsuccesfully to add a picture here but couldn't.....email me at mikeflbmer@yahoo.com if you want a picture
jumpinjan
Bronze Level Sponsor
recore it
I have my radiators re-cored to a three row and solves any over heating problems. The mounting, radiator necks locations are all critical.
The Tigers even have a custom aluminum radiators made up by Tiger Auto, and there's no cheap, good & fast solution about it.
Jan
I have my radiators re-cored to a three row and solves any over heating problems. The mounting, radiator necks locations are all critical.
The Tigers even have a custom aluminum radiators made up by Tiger Auto, and there's no cheap, good & fast solution about it.
Jan
Chazbeam
Silver Level Sponsor
old cross flow
I was going to swap mine as well...but decided to repair the crack in it and after reading the article that was done on cooling system i decided to make a mod to the system in getting rid of the overflow tank that had rusted the attachments so badly it was not worth repair...
I created a fill point in-between the inlet hose to the radiator and the top of the engine and reinforced the heater core ends and upped the pressure to a sealed system...This setup worked so well i drove the car to Arizona during the hottest day of the year..the only hottest place on earth was Kuwait city that reached 127 that day and the only thing that overheated was ME... I do have an oil cooler but that was disconnected during the winter months.(not that CA has any really)
If the water circulation and pump is working well i don't see why the stock system is inadequate as i proved its not when working properly.
..although finding an almost perfect replacement is a great idea..
I was thinking asking some of the guys that do exclusive radiators in CA would answer some questions.... There may come a time when mine is not fixable anymore and a lot of people get the aluminum customs that can be very expensive...
Im good and handy with a solder and torch from years of plumbing work so ill keep fixing mine till i cant.....
Chaz
I was going to swap mine as well...but decided to repair the crack in it and after reading the article that was done on cooling system i decided to make a mod to the system in getting rid of the overflow tank that had rusted the attachments so badly it was not worth repair...
I created a fill point in-between the inlet hose to the radiator and the top of the engine and reinforced the heater core ends and upped the pressure to a sealed system...This setup worked so well i drove the car to Arizona during the hottest day of the year..the only hottest place on earth was Kuwait city that reached 127 that day and the only thing that overheated was ME... I do have an oil cooler but that was disconnected during the winter months.(not that CA has any really)
If the water circulation and pump is working well i don't see why the stock system is inadequate as i proved its not when working properly.
..although finding an almost perfect replacement is a great idea..
I was thinking asking some of the guys that do exclusive radiators in CA would answer some questions.... There may come a time when mine is not fixable anymore and a lot of people get the aluminum customs that can be very expensive...
Im good and handy with a solder and torch from years of plumbing work so ill keep fixing mine till i cant.....
Chaz
Last edited:
Okay, by my rough measurements (it was installed, so there's a bit of wiggle room but I tried to guess 'bigger').
Okay, as seen from the front, the radiator is 19" tall at the tallest point with rad cap installed (as measured from bumper to hood), and it is 26.5" wide (from fender to fender).
The core is 2.5" deep, as measured from front bumper to firewall. The Miata radiator has provisions for two fans to be mounted directly to it, and with a factory fan installed it measures 8" deep.
The factory style has a plastic top tank, which will turn greenish brown when it gets toward the end of its life, but that usually takes somewhere around 12-15 years. Usually $75-$90.
There are a few fully aluminum aftermarket radiators that are higher capacity which are used for racing; the ones that jump to mind are the Mishimoto, Koyorad, and a newer offering from TrackDog Racing which doesn't have a protruding tank which should reduce the overall height to 16" (plus cap, so probably about 16.5"). The aftermarket ones are usually 3" deep and have three rows of cooling. They typically run around $250-$300.
Okay, as seen from the front, the radiator is 19" tall at the tallest point with rad cap installed (as measured from bumper to hood), and it is 26.5" wide (from fender to fender).
The core is 2.5" deep, as measured from front bumper to firewall. The Miata radiator has provisions for two fans to be mounted directly to it, and with a factory fan installed it measures 8" deep.
The factory style has a plastic top tank, which will turn greenish brown when it gets toward the end of its life, but that usually takes somewhere around 12-15 years. Usually $75-$90.
There are a few fully aluminum aftermarket radiators that are higher capacity which are used for racing; the ones that jump to mind are the Mishimoto, Koyorad, and a newer offering from TrackDog Racing which doesn't have a protruding tank which should reduce the overall height to 16" (plus cap, so probably about 16.5"). The aftermarket ones are usually 3" deep and have three rows of cooling. They typically run around $250-$300.
I caught that dimension a little late; I'm amazed that the Sunbeam has less area to mount than a Miata. I guess the internal structure really becomes an issue because the Miata's nose is much more sloped and smaller. Then again the Miata was probably designed to hold a radiator that worked on 4 other cars that Mazda was building as well; they are parts bin cars.
So are Alpines.
I think the Miata radiator is larger because the car was designed with a world market in mind. The Alpine was not. As an example, the instructions for starting a Zenith carbed car in cold weather warns against pumping the accelerator. Pretty obvious the Brits had no idea what cold weather was. Would not be surprised they had equal knowledge of hot weather.
Bill
Well, what I can do is head up to my bud's shop and get true measurements. If there really is a 26" clearance, then a cheap replacement exists. If not, we can get radiators made to your dimensional requirements. The shop in question has started Miata radiator production in custom sizing to allow for supercharger plumbing that the other options didnt. Getting one made that is a custom size shouldnt be a problem. I would expect the pricing to be similar ($300ish). If there is enough of an interest, I'll pursue the fab and then link you all to the shop. Just let me know.
FWIW, I have no affiliation with the shop and would not get a single penny from any sales that might happen. My interest is purely related to getting a good radiator to fit for future use when and if I get my car to TX from VA. If it helps keep these cars on the road, so much the better.
FWIW, I have no affiliation with the shop and would not get a single penny from any sales that might happen. My interest is purely related to getting a good radiator to fit for future use when and if I get my car to TX from VA. If it helps keep these cars on the road, so much the better.
When the subject of radiator size and frame rails came up, the first thing that I thought was that the Sunbeam needs a better way to get air out of the engine compartment. If the air management in the engine compartment is not considered, a bigger radiator will have a marginal improvement.
I suspect that the biggest impediment to engine compartment airflow is the X-frame under the car. Also, the tight clearances in the transmission and driveshaft tunnel block airflow.
So far, the only remedies I have come up with have to do with ride height (lowered front/raised rear), rocker pinch joint extension, under-engine baffles like the ones on the MGB, and a front air-dam to help block under-bumper airflow. I don't really care for the hood vents like the LAT solution. I know that MGB through-wing headers provide another path for air to exit the engine compartment and wonder if some sort of inner wing louvers would help a Sunbeam.
I suspect that the biggest impediment to engine compartment airflow is the X-frame under the car. Also, the tight clearances in the transmission and driveshaft tunnel block airflow.
So far, the only remedies I have come up with have to do with ride height (lowered front/raised rear), rocker pinch joint extension, under-engine baffles like the ones on the MGB, and a front air-dam to help block under-bumper airflow. I don't really care for the hood vents like the LAT solution. I know that MGB through-wing headers provide another path for air to exit the engine compartment and wonder if some sort of inner wing louvers would help a Sunbeam.
I ended up getting an '89 Volvo 740 that FILLS that whole area perfectly, I will have to notch the crossmember for the hose clearance, so it's not a bolt in. All in another day of hotrodding, not a big deal. I also am making the hood hinge mounting panel removable. The panel where the radiator mounts will be made new to even more perfectly fit the radiator core opening.
Brian
Brian
