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Horn problems

inline_eric

Donation Time
Hi Forum,
I have been a Sunbeam (1967 series V all original) owner for about 3 weeks or so and have been trying to fix the little problems and have a nice driver...well I repaired the turn signal today and it works great. I have moved on to my nonworking horn and have found some issues...first both horns don't work they just kind of make a hollow click when I hit the horn ring...so I checked the voltage to the horns and they are only making about 9 volts...I pulled one horn and hooked it up to 12 volts and it worked fine...so I am wondering if anyone has the schematics to the horn so I can figure out where and how it is grounded...maybe that connection is poor and causing my decreased volts...or is there something else I should be looking at...any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Eric
 

todd reid

Gold Level Sponsor
The horns are always powered, and grounded when you push your horn ring. If my memory serves me the ground wire is purple with a black tracer.
The first step is to disassemble the horn ring assy in the steering wheel and clean and inspect everything.

Most Sunbeam electrical problems are due to bad grounds.

Good Luck!
 

bmohr

Gold Level Sponsor
Hi Eric,

If you go up to the top of the page you'll see a tab labeled Tech Data. Hover on that and go down to Electrical Components and click. You'll see a lot of info and one of the items is Schematic for Series V. Here is the direct link to the pdf

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/downloads/wiring_diagrams/s5_diagram.pdf

Many components are grounded through the frame. I don't recall if that's the case with the horn as a PO fitted an aftermarket horn on mine. If so you can just clean up the dirt and corrosion so it makes a better connection. I'm sure someone else will chime in with better advice.

Good luck
 

volvoguys

Diamond Level Sponsor
All good advice.

I'll assume your car is still fitted with the original Clear Hooter horns, easily identified by the half-trumpet sound outlet with a L or H cast into the throat (indicates which is high or low note). If you find your issue isn't electrical, it might be that the horn isn't taking in enough current. On the top of each horn is a single flat slotted adjuster about 3/8" round. While an assistant presses the horn ring, slowly rotate the adjuster clockwise until the sound is restored and, once it is, slowly rotate anti-clockwise until your satisfied with the volume. If the adjuster is seized, you might want to soak it with penetrating oil for a day or two.

Finally, the horns are held together with 6 rivets so servicing them may be an issue. Unless you have an industrial riveter you'll have to settle with nuts 'n bolts to put it back together again which is no problem unless you're a sticker for complete original look.

Good luck, Mark ..... volvoguys
 

Thor 1211

Silver Level Sponsor
Horns

My solution to the weak bleat of the horns was to install fiammi horns with relays with heavier wiring grounded to the shell on the fascia near the radiator.
 

Tom H

Platinum Level Sponsor
No need to swap horns or change to heavier wire, just install a relay. See this tech tip:
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-5/techtips/horn_rel.html

This is what I did and horns used to work like you describe and now they work flawlessly. If you have one, you can use an Alpine 6RA or simuilar relay to preserve the look. Or just buy a $6 relay at an auto parts store- very common. It's simpler to wire if you buy a 4 pin relay, but the 5 pin relay is more common- you just don't use the 5th pin. If you use a modern relay the pins will be labled differently than this article: 30 = C2, 87 = C1, 85= W2, 86 = W1, and don't use 87a (or 87Q on some)

Tom
 

Hillman

Gold Level Sponsor
On my SII, the carbon brush between the steering wheel and column wouldn't pass enough current to blow the horns. I installed 'Bosch' relays without running much new wire. It's straight forward. If you want a hand-drawn wiring diagram and instructions, email me.

Al
 
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