Horn assembly

[MSiege]

Starting to look at my SV horn assembly. PO installed a pushbutton bypass under the dash. I'd like to try to get it working on the wheel. First problem, horn button is loose and wobbly but what part pries off? And, how hard should it be to remove, or is there a catch or clip to release it?

Thanks...

 

[absunbeam]

Pry carefully on the outside of the chrome ring. You have to work it one side to the next. There are 3 small clips that hold pressure on the inside of the hub.

 

[absunbeam]

Here's a picture with the cover removed.

 

[MSiege]

Thanks for your help.

Here’s a brief update - disassembled down to removal of the horn ring. Original wiring was intact so I removed the POs grounded push button and just plugged the horn wire back into the column wiring under the dash.

I found the spring blade was also not reaching the slip ring. I didn’t really want to mess with the various assemblies attached to the column. So, a little light plier work made a better connection but I also slipped a cone shaped, copper washer between the two faces. The dish shape keeps it seated on the spring blade and the added thickness maintains a little more pressure and connection.

I repaired my broken horn ring with a metal patch and epoxy. We’ll see how long that can hold up.

Here’s a question - the horn ring connection is internal when it grounds the horns. The ring itself is relatively flexible though and can touch the steering wheel spokes at the same time the horn is sounding. This produces little electrical sparks at the steering wheel. Anyone else have this experience? Did you just put a little piece of electrical tape on the underside?

 

[absunbeam]

There is a rubber pc on ether side of the horn ring that attaches to the spokes of the steering wheel. I didn't realize that until the recent acquisition of an Alpine. Had never seen that on the 3 other Sunbeams I have owned. I am sure others know this but it was a recent enlightenment. The picture shows the placement. I don't think anyone reproduces those but there maybe alternatives.

 

[greenbean]

That rubber piece is interesting. I have had 2 alpines and neither one had a piece like that and my horn ring never spraked, even a little. Mmmmm, maybe some one else can chime in and discuss/explain more.

 

[SoCal'beaming]

Could you be missing the copper(earthing) grounding spring? ...

 

[volvoguys]

The pair of rubber grommets shown in the pics were originally fitted to all Series Alpines and Tigers (exception: Series II Lemans) and over the decades they simply fell off. But they did not serve as an insulator for the horn electrical system. Rather, they were bumpers to keep the horn ring from contacting the spines when honking and, more importantly, lessened the distance between the two. IMO, this is the primary reason horn rings were more likely to break at the boss than in the ring.
Mark .…. volvoguys

 

[65beam]

The pair of rubber grommets shown in the pics were originally fitted to all Series Alpines and Tigers (exception: Series II Lemans) and over the decades they simply fell off. But they did not serve as an insulator for the horn electrical system. Rather, they were bumpers to keep the horn ring from contacting the spines when honking and, more importantly, lessened the distance between the two. IMO, this is the primary reason horn rings were more likely to break at the boss than in the ring.
Mark .…. volvoguys

Mark,
I have to agree with your comments. I'm sure you're also aware that the horn plate can be adjusted by use of the screws to close up the distance between the two plates which lessens the distance to activate the horns due to not having to push the horn ring as far.. This pretty much eliminates breaking the horn ring on late cars.

 

[SoCal'beaming]

The pair of rubber grommets shown in the pics were originally fitted to all Series Alpines and Tigers (exception: Series II Lemans) and over the decades they simply fell off. But they did not serve as an insulator for the horn electrical system. Rather, they were bumpers to keep the horn ring from contacting the spines when honking and, more importantly, lessened the distance between the two. IMO, this is the primary reason horn rings were more likely to break at the boss than in the ring.
Mark .…. volvoguys

Exactly! ... though breaking them is probably due to a elevated blood pressure issue resulting from another drivers inattentive/careless/dangerous action that translates to the drivers hands in a force multiplier and over time BINGO! .. almost sounds like I know something about this living in SoCal.

 

[65beam]

I make a point to check the horn operation prior to leaving for the TE/AE United. The lack of use always requires some adjustment to make them work. The judges check to see if the horn is operational.

 

[65beam]

This is a photo of the rubber spacers for the horn ring. Two per car.The other photo shows the adjustment screws to close the gap for horn activation. Tighten the plastic nuts until there is a very small ,even gap between the cone and the plate.

 

[MSiege]

All good information. I do have all the parts installed including the large copper grounding spring. Just to clarify about the sparking though, it occurs as the horn is sounding because the horn ring touches the steering wheel spokes at the same time. Since the ring is powered up at that moment, it momentarily shorts/sparks against the spokes. Connecting the ring to the spokes without the horn sounding, doesn't spark at all. I think a little insulation would solve it.

The whole internal adjustment thing is touchy anyway, as some of you have said. It seems to me that the spring strength is actually too great not just the distance the plates have to move. The current stress just broke my repaired ring again. When I get a replacement ring, I may play with the strength of the three copper springs to still get a connection with less stress. Hopefully not so soft/loose that it fires up my double horns just by hitting a bump in the road...