Hello all!

[99ZoomR]

Hi folks! My name is Leonard and I live in Central Illinois...

I thought it was about time I introduced myself after spending months lurking on the site and becoming the proud owner of a Series 2 Alpine a few weeks ago (B91193670DLXR). It's wedgwood blue with a white hardtop and OD. The body and paint seem to be in very nice condition, and it was re-painted back in the mid 90's about 2 or 3 owners ago. I think it also had some major engine work done around that time based on some of receipts I received from the previous owner. The previous owner spent the last few years sorting out a lot of things to make it a nice driver. Since I've had it, I've changed the oil and filter (20w50), replaced the ignition wires, plugs, and distributor cap, and synched the carburetors to try and get it to run a little smoother. The oil pressure is a little lower than I''d like to see (only about 10psi per 1000rpm), but other than some valvetrain noise (also checked clearances), it sounds and runs pretty good. I've checked and cleaned the pressure relief valve, so a rebuild may be in the not too distant future...

I've also ordered and installed much of the weatherstripping that was missing and some other bits and pieces. (I'm getting to know the folks at Sunbeam Specialties quite well!)

Hope to meet up with some other Sunbeam owners in person someday.

Thanks!
Len

 

[Green67Alpine]

I like the look, enjoy the ride !
Tom j

 

[Stephen]

Good luck Len car looks good, enjoy it. On oil pressure did you pull the by-pass apart no port issues

Stephen

 

[Series6]

Oh yeah. Good looking car Len.

 

[99ZoomR]

Thanks guys! I didn't take the relief vavle apart (not sure how it would come apart, but I used some stuff I have for cleaning bike cables and chains and moved the vavle up and down before soaking it in some oil. Then wiped it down and reinstalled it. When I start the car cold, the pressure goes up to a little over 50psi, and then gradually gets lower as the car warms up. My temp gauge shows about 165 - 170 when warm and it doesn't seem to overheat. Today's about the warmest day we've had so far, mid 70's. Let me know if you think there's anything else I should check or if I should take the valve out again and try to clean it better...

Thanks again...Len

 

[RootesRacer]

Thanks guys! I didn't take the relief vavle apart (not sure how it would come apart, but I used some stuff I have for cleaning bike cables and chains and moved the vavle up and down before soaking it in some oil. Then wiped it down and reinstalled it. When I start the car cold, the pressure goes up to a little over 50psi, and then gradually gets lower as the car warms up. My temp gauge shows about 165 - 170 when warm and it doesn't seem to overheat. Today's about the warmest day we've had so far, mid 70's. Let me know if you think there's anything else I should check or if I should take the valve out again and try to clean it better...

Thanks again...Len

The valve is fine, leave it in place.
Set the idle to 800 to 850, if it has anything less than 10psi with a "driven" hot engine at that idle, your bearing clearances are too far gone.

I like to see 15psi at hot idle but IMO it will still have some life left in it down to 10. Below that you are on borrowed time and you can be in for a whole engine, not just a rebuild.

 

[99ZoomR]

Went for a nice long drive in the country and got everything warmed up. After sitting in the garage and idling for awhile after I got back, the temp went up to about 190 and stayed there. I've attached a pic of what the oil pressure showed when everything was hot at idle. I also verified a few days ago that the oil gauge was correct by using a test gauge from an MGA that I know is correct. I'll plan to take it in to my mechanic before driving it much more to see if he can check out the bearing clearances. Hopefully it can still be rebuilt...

Thanks again...Len

 

[Mike snyder]

Welcome! And, really nice car!
Mike

 

[RootesRacer]

When you say something of valvetrain noise, something came to mind.

You might pull the valve cover and start the engine for a bit to see if oil is getting up top.

There is a steel hose that connects the rocker shafts to the block.
If it is not connected, your pressure will be low and you will have little or no oil up top.

Also, there is a detail in the timing cover that is intended NOT to drain the oil galleries into the sump through the tube that oils the chain tensioner.
It has a spring and ball bearing. Its not uncommon to hear of someone losing the ball bearing and having a huge internal oil leak as a result.
This also would generate low oil pressure even if the engine is tight.
Hate to see you rebuild an engine that doesnt need it.

 

[RootesRooter]

The oil pressure is a little lower than I''d like to see (only about 10psi per 1000rpm),


40psi at hot running speed/rpms is considered normal for a stock/new condition 1592cc in a Series II. The pressure relief valve in 1592's is set for that maximum psi. It's not unusual to see 10-20psi at idle. Unless the pressure at running speed suddenly drops off (from 40 to say, 15), your pressure relief valve is probably OK.

 

[99ZoomR]

Thanks again guys!

When I checked the valve gap a few days ago, I had the engine running with the valve cover off. The oiling tube was definitely dripping oil onto the valvetrain, and things were nice and oily. The PRV is very easy to remove, so I plan to take it out again and give it another good cleaning and see if it continues to help. The engine actually runs really well since I adjusted the valves (still some ticking), put in a new set of plugs, replaced the distributor cap and rotor, and put in some fresh 92 octane gasoline...

Take care...Len