Girling to Lockheed Brake Booster

[Nickodell]

Matilda's original Girling Mk. 2A brake booster is finally for the scrap heap. Not bad, considering it's the original one from 1967. Back about 20 years ago it did the old trick of drinking the brake fluid, and I repaired it with a kit from V.B., but now it's just done the same (and proved the value of my home-made Low Fluid Warning Light!).

As the Girling units are NLA I'm looking at repacing it with a Lockheed unit. It'll be going from 7" to 5", but other than that are there any other snags to look out for? Anyone done the same swap?

 

[Jim E]

The only issues are the braket the Lockheed comes with does not work so well and you have to modify it to get the unit installed the way the directions say to locate it, as in angle and how it is clocked.

 

[65beam]

booster

you could order a 700 master as used on early cars and eliminate the booster. they're available from pegasus racing. perfect bolt on. no changes have to be made other than bending the line that went to the booster.

 

[Rodewaryer]

White Post Restorations can rebuild (sleeve etc) your original unit and save the modifications. It's not cheap but keeps you original. I had the master cyl/booster out of my Lotus done with them as they are not available either. Just an FYI.

http://www.whitepost.com/

 

[puff4]

Ditto on White Post. They do a good job, and the bronze sleeving (a fairly pricey three-step sleeve in the booster) will last a lifetime. All of my brake and clutch components, except the discs*, have been sleeved by them and they've been on there 20+ years without a rebuild. Just flush the fluid every couple of years to keep the stuff fresh.

(*The discs have stainless pistons)

 

[Nickodell]

Thanks for the advice, guys.

 

[Jim E]

I like the feel of the brakes with a booster but the .700 M/C is ok too, Wilwood has a copy of the org unit w/.700 bore for around $50, but you got to do the grind the washer down and swap the push rod deal. Not that hard and it is cheap. But I like a booster, VB use to put them on sale once a year think they are around $300 normally cannot recall the sale price but it seemed cheap to me.

 

[Nickodell]

VB use to put them on sale once a year think they are around $300 normally cannot recall the sale price but it seemed cheap to me.

$299.99. They were $269.99 in the Winter Catalog. Unfortunately that expired Feb. 28, a couple of weeks before my booster did.

 

[howard]

First thing I did before I could attempt to drive my SIV was to put the .700 MC on and remove the ruined booster. I've not had the opportunity to compare booster vs. non-assist, but it works fine. The only issue I have is the need to pump the brakes to get good pressure, but I'm sure if it were vacuum bled by a pro it would be remedied. (I also opted for the stainless pistons in the calipers. Not had any problems with them even after having to leave the car parked for extended periods.)

SOMEDAY I'll get the booster rebuilt...

 

[Bill Blue]

First thing I did before I could attempt to drive my SIV was to put the .700 MC on and remove the ruined booster. I've not had the opportunity to compare booster vs. non-assist, but it works fine. The only issue I have is the need to pump the brakes to get good pressure, but I'm sure if it were vacuum bled by a pro it would be remedied. (I also opted for the stainless pistons in the calipers. Not had any problems with them even after having to leave the car parked for extended periods.)

SOMEDAY I'll get the booster rebuilt...

If the pedal is hard after pumping up the brakes, you have improperly adjusted brakes. On the Alpines, that means the rears are too loose. If the pedal is squishy, you have air.

Bill

 

[am99ey]

Hello Nick

I have been rebuilding my original girling servo two years ago. For a while everything was fine. Resently the vacuum piston did not release proprely occasionally. I believe the worn leather seal is the cause.
Now I have bought a new seal at jlspares.com, but have not installed it yet. So no experience yet. To me it looks like a promissing solution. The part is somewhat a replacement of the leather seal with a hard rubber/synthetic one. This part was produced exclusively. Talking to Scott (jlspares.com) on the phone I had the impression he knows exatly about our little problem. So I will do the job of installing on one of the next weekends. I think a try will be worth it before I give in to the lockheed solution. Have a look into it.
Andy

Jlspares.com wrote:
>
> Hi Andy. Your problem is your vacuum piston not fully releasing. We can supply you with a modified seal for this.
> It is quite a common problem with this unit.
> Hope to hear from you soon.
> Regards, Scott….
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ...
> Sent: 17 October 2009 23:24
> To: enquiries@jlspares.com
> Subject: Girling IIa / blocking occasionally
> .....
>

 

[Nickodell]

Hi, Andy. I hope it works for you. In my case I think one rebuild is probably enough. One hears horror stories about brakes jamming ON.

 

[riggs]

Dense, yes

I just got a series V and it has Nippon Denso boost and alternator and Zenith carbs ???? My Spit has no booster and wants to go fast but doesnt want to stop without standing on the binders. I prefer stopping power over originality any day. What kind of master with integral boost will fit on an Alpine ? Thanks.