Gearbox advice

[londoner]

Hello. I am onto the next faze of my series 2 resto. Before I marry up the original gearbox to the engine I would like to give it a overhaul. What should I check and replace before putting back in? Many thanks i have attached a couple of pictures. I have not cleaned up the unit and is as at was when I took it out 15 years ago

 

[nsbluenose]

Unless you a going to completely original rebuild, I might suggest moving to a fully synchromesh transmission. Easier to drive, lots of them around.

 

[alpine_64]

Needle bearings, synchro rung wear.. Wear on the selector forks, detent springs...

If you have the budget.. I would suggest getting an overdrive gearbox.. One of the biggest upgrades for usability you can do for an alpine.

 

[pruyter]

I know that a series II has a non synchro gearbox, but if I am not mistaken this box seems to me a full synchro gearbox.
It could be that a previous owner has already made the swap. In order to check if it is a full synchro gearbox check were the reverse is situated.
If it is at the right it is a full synchromess gearbox and of of course if the reverse is situated at the left it is not.

Regards,

Peter

 

[Alpine 1789]

I know that a series II has a non synchro gearbox, but if I am not mistaken this box seems to me a full synchro gearbox.

The second photo shows a date code of "26 6 62". I assume that means it is non synchro.

So many owners have switched to OD that a later box should be relatively easy to find, although "easy" will depend on where you are. That said, I second Michael's recommendation to switch to a OD unit, if at all possible. That is the single best thing I have done to my car in the 45 years I have owned it.

Or, also as Michael said: "Needle bearings, synchro rung wear.. Wear on the selector forks, detent springs..."

 

[Acollin]

If you are considering not doing a complete tear down of the box, at minimum check or replace seals. As the box is out of the car, I might replace the engine main seal too.

good luck— keep the forum informed

 

[londoner]

Thanks for all the input. The reverse is to the left so guessing its all original. Car was used to race in the 60s so more than likely very tired! Looks like I am in the market for a new box!

 

[jumpinjan]

If you never have rebuilt one, you might just replace only the seals. Why? you will need some special tools to rebuild it. I have rebuilt many and most all of them were hack up. As an example of tools needed, the cluster gear will need a dummy shaft tool to hold all the needles & trust washers in place for reassembly. Also, are the tools needed to hold the mainshaft while tightening the securing nuts. I have seen them tighten (somewhat tight) with a hammer & chisel!
Jan

 

[londoner]

Jan. Did not want to tear down. Just replace seals gaskets etc. It seams. To turn smoothly through each gear. Thanks

 

[Alpine 1789]

Looks like I am in the market for a new box!

Contact Jeff Howarth via the forum if you are interested in an OD. This one is probably gone, but Jeff is the expert at finding and fixing them up for resale. https://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?threads/all-synchro-overdrive-kit.31298/

 

[jdoclogan]

Jan is right. It takes a bit to do a complete rebuild. I've done it without the dummy shafts. Watch out where all the needle bearings go. Also, there is the possibility of worn synchro rings and gears.

Actually it is my friend John "the Box" Roseby that does the rebuilds. My friend, Jeff Horwarth plays the roll of putting other components (relay,switch, etc) together for a package deal and the shipping. Watch Tim's 5 part videos with Roseby rebuilding an Alpine unit. Link to part 1 on this forum https://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/ind...rdrive-rebuild-part-one-the-strip-down.26453/

 

[jumpinjan]

I've done it without the dummy shafts.

Folks, I think Jerry is joking there.....Please use the dummy shaft as described in the Alpine shop manual. They describe how to make one and I'm still using the one I made 52 years ago now. You know if just one needle or thrush washer falls out, you have to remove the all of the input & main shafts that you just installed, and go at it all over again.
I also recommend (and I'm using now) the Redline MTL (for syncro trannys) oil in our transmissions, instead of SAE30 engine oil.
Jan

 

[jdoclogan]

You caught me in the act Jan.

 

[alpine_64]

[QUOTE="londoner, post: 229853, Car was used to race in the 60s so more than likely very tired! Looks like I am in the market for a new box![/QUOTE]
Do you have history of the cars race past?
Are you making it a street car or race car?

 

[londoner]

Its going to be a street car for now. It was raced in the 60s and u have a photo of it back then. It was converted back to street driving when the owner gave the car to his son to use to drive to school in the 70s.

 

[Mike O'D]

Jan - that Redline MTL is 70w 80w. I know it says it can replace SAE30, but that seems really thick. In cool weather, the 30w was sluggish in my tranny until it warmed up.

 

[hartmandm]

The redline site is indicating the MTL is equivalent to 5W-30. That seems like it might be decent when the gearbox is cold.



Mike

 

[Jeff Howarth]

Jan is right. It takes a bit to do a complete rebuild. I've done it without the dummy shafts. Watch out where all the needle bearings go. Also, there is the possibility of worn synchro rings and gears.

Actually it is my friend John "the Box" Roseby that does the rebuilds. My friend, Jeff Horwarth plays the roll of putting other components (relay,switch, etc) together for a package deal and the shipping. Watch Tim's 5 part videos with Roseby rebuilding an Alpine unit. Link to part 1 on this forum https://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/ind...rdrive-rebuild-part-one-the-strip-down.26453/

Correct, John is the expert rebuilder which gives confidence to anyone that I supply a kit to.
I do have one ready to go if anyone is looking.
Jeff

 

[Mike O'D]

How can something have a "motor oil" viscosity of 5W30 and a "gear oil" viscosity of 75W80?

 

[hartmandm]

https://blog.amsoil.com/gear-oil-vs-engine-oil/