Front cover and oil pan installation

[pcmenten]

I am doing the assembly of the oil pump, oil pan and related. I have encountered numerous issues during the installation and I am bringing them up for discussion.The issues include;

- oil pump to block gasket did not fit
- timing chain sheet metal cover installation
- front cover installation and oil seal alignment
- front cover oil pan rail alignment to block oil pan rail
- cork oil pan rail gasket installation
- front neoprene pan seal
- rear neoprene pan seal

I fabricated the oil pump to block gasket. The gasket that came with the kit did not fit well.
When the sheet metal cover (fits between the cast iron timing chain cover and the block) is installedThe ends of the sheet metal cover need to be checked to keep them above the oil pan rails. One of mine ended up sitting proud of the rail and I used a file to get it back to the level of the oil pan rail.

I used the front pulley to align the front cover and seal. I think using the front pully did good enough but there are alignment tools that probably make it easier. Next time I install the cover I will take more care to level the oil pan rails of the cover and the block.

The cork oil pan gaskets have tabs that fit into notches in the neoprene gaskets. The tabs are too wide and need to be trimmed to fit the notches. The rear neoprene seal is not properly shaped to fit into the groove in the rear main cap. There is a step in the bottom of the groove and the gasket needs to be notched to clear that step.

I don't know how other people are getting their engines assembled, but I am experiencing continual issues. These are just the latest. I will take pictures to illustrate the gasket fitment issues.

Paul

 

[kmathis]

Well, as the Brits would say, all of these items are a bit fiddly. The best thing that you did was use the pulley to align the front cover, that is the proper way to prevent leaks around the front seal.
Did you use a Fel Pro gasket set? I did, and I found all of the gaskets to fit well, and didn't require any trimming...interesting. However, fitting the seals front and rear on the oil pan is tricky at best.
Sounds like you are getting it all handled, and will be all together soon. When you step on the gas, you will forget about these tricky areas of the build.
Have fun.

 

[pcmenten]

Hi Kelly,

Yes, a Sealed-Power/Fel Pro kit number 260-1127. I'll check to see if it's a Mustang or Truck kit, but they might be the same. I think I might have one or two more gasket kits around somewhere and I'll look in those to see what those rear main gaskets look like.

Just discovered that my new truck oil pump pickup is bottoming out in my new truck oil pan. I'll check to see what the clearance should be and adjust as needed. As you say, assembling this engine is 'fiddly'. I've seen similar things in other engines, but I was a little surprised at how careful I have to be with this particular kit, and how much fiddling I have to do to get things right.

It's really easy to get things wrong. The machinist mashed the aluminum cam gear, crushed the bit where it mounts on the cam Woodruff key, on installation and I had to replace the cam gear. Tedious work and I had to do it twice because I neglected to put the sheet metal cover on before installing the cam gear the first time.

One more thought; my short-block was overhauled by a machine shop. The engine assembly is currently just the crank, rods, pistons, rings and cam. No lifters. It takes a lot of torque to rotate the engine. Anybody else experience something like this? I've worked on Chevy small blocks, a Ford Y-block, a Ford 223, a VW bug engine and none of those were as stiff as this one. Anybody else have the same experience?

It will probably loosen up soon after running but I was just surprised at how much force is required to turn the rotating assembly. It will be a bear to turn once the heads are on with the lifters and rockers.

Paul