Floor pans

[Thor 1211]

Any good ideas for replacements for rusty floor pans in a series V? I'd like to cut out and weld in a factory looking replacement.

 

[Alpine 1789]

As far as I know, you have two choices: Randy Willett or Dave Lameront. From what I have heard, Randy's are higher quality and easier to install (but the job will still be a major PITA no matter what) but a lot more expensive. I have not seen Randy's but have installed Dave's on a Tiger and they are reasonably "factory looking". The stampings are all in the right places, just not quite as 'crisp'. The metal is very soft, which makes them easier to form and fit, but still feels solid once welded in place.

Here's a little more info:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?p=173299
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?p=156486

 

[sd_pace]

I put Dave Lameront front pans in mine and was very happy with them, pressed with original die pattern and thick steel

 

[mikephillips]

As a guy who's replaced both front and rear floors in 3 cars, it is a tough job. I fond it easiest if the car is stripped to a bare tube you can turn on its side so that you can get good welds to the X frame. You didn't say if this was for fronts, rears or both, but be sure to inspect all of it as well as the ends of the X frame. The can rust where they attach to the rest of the body and can crack where they attach to the rear spring mount. Assume you'll end up doing more than just a pair of floors since in all likelihood you will.

And don't forget to throw some paint on the hidden surfaces while they're exposed to help prevent future rust from starting/continuing.

 

[jumpinjan]

I haven't seen a series V (or Tiger) that needed ONLY new floors. All the surrounding metal is bad too and needs replacement. I just installed two rear floors (and 1/2 of one front) and you need a sheet metal brake to bend flanges on three sides. I also used a 24" press brake to make the bends. They fit perfect if you have the tools and a real welder (a real gas-MIG) is required. Overall, a tremendous amount of work of planning & fitting. When the old rear floors are out (you do one-at-a-time, NOT both at the same time), weld up the rear frame rail & X-member seam to get good body rigidity. They didn't do it at the factory.
If the front floors are bad, chances are the frame rails need new metal too.
I would try to avoid replacing the whole front floor if possible. Its a lot of work even if you have the sheet metal tools in the work shop.
Dave's stampings are 20ga DQ (die quality) metal. Yes, it bends & works very nice because it's suppose to. So, be warned NOT to stretch the metal by mistake, otherwise it will flex like an oil can.
Jan

 

[PROCRAFT]

floors

were doing a seat pan replacement right now all the surrounding sheet metal is crap and we've had to replace most of it, I.e. the cross beam is where we started however I recommend using .040 mild steel which forms
easily all the stuff were doing is by hand with simple clamp plates etc. we don't have a brake so that's the way it is, we'll probably make the pan in two pieces like where the seat belt mount is we also will not put the rib in the floor although you can make some simple hammer forms and do this with a press, ash works just like aluminum, all in all Jan is right every thing else needs attention also and weld everything up like he said. If any ones interested shoot me an email jkgriffs@yahoo and well sent some pics
as to Dave Lameront I tried to contact him to no avail.

 

[jumpinjan]

20ga = 0.0375", so yeah 40 thousandths is about right.
Jan