Faulty flasher unit base

[DrNo]

I have a strange issue. My indicator panel warning lamps stopped working, and after confirming that it wasn't the globes, I traced it to a faulty flasher unit. Bought a replacement thermal unit but panel lamps still didn't work.

Two days later, having traced all of the flasher circuit wiring, reterminating most of the connectors, cleaning up and deoxidising all of the connections, and thoroughly testing all electrical points with a multimeter, I discovered that the fault lies with the little bakelite base that holds the flasher unit. Fiddling with the light green wire where it exits the base seemed to get the panel lights working. I even tried cable tying the wire to the base but that didn't work for long.

Questions:

• What's inside the bakelite base?
• Can I remove it and just terminate the wires with insulated female spade (aka disconnect) connectors?

I don't really want to remove the bakelite base (it would be a shame to lose it) but it's riveted together and I can't see how to pull it apart without breaking it.

Any help much appreciated.

 

[hartmandm]

You can try drilling out the center rivet. If it breaks, then it is time for a replacement socket.

Mike

 

[mikephillips]

In the original should only have the three wire connections to the female terminals that the flasher unit plugs into. Sounds like one of the connections has come loose and not making full contact anymore.

 

[DrNo]

Thanks all. I can try drilling out the rivet, although that's going to be difficult while it's still in the car. Worst case: I guess there's no harm in just replacing the whole unit with 3 spade connectors.

 

[Pete S.]

Thanks all. I can try drilling out the rivet, although that's going to be difficult while it's still in the car. Worst case: I guess there's no harm in just replacing the whole unit with 3 spade connectors.

Before you start taking things apart, try some Deoxit D5 spray on the contacts. I use it on the electrical systems of the Norton motorcycles I resuscitate. It does a good job cleaning up contacts.

 

[Thor 1211]

Thanks all. I can try drilling out the rivet, although that's going to be difficult while it's still in the car. Worst case: I guess there's no harm in just replacing the whole unit with 3 spade connectors.

I'd cut the wires to get it out of the car (You can put connectors on the wire ends later) then carefully dremel off the rivet flange and pull that base off. What I think you'll see inside is that one of the wires, which were probably soldered to the connectors, has corroded. After you reattach it you can silicone the base back on. Maybe it's just the damp climate here but I am always amazed at the amount of green crud corrosion I find when there is an electrical type failure.

 

[Gordon Holsinger]

I'd cut the wires to get it out of the car (You can put connectors on the wire ends later) then carefully dremel off the rivet flange and pull that base off. What I think you'll see inside is that one of the wires, which were probably soldered to the connectors, has corroded. After you reattach it you can silicone the base back on. Maybe it's just the damp climate here but I am always amazed at the amount of green crud corrosion I find when there is an electrical type failure.

If you have a Brit car shop near you perhaps you can scavenge one from a parts car. All of the British cars from the60’s and 70’s used that same flasher unit base!

 

[Tom H]

I do not see how any issue inside the flasher base would have an effect on any other indicators other than the flasher warning lamp. I assume your actual flashers work, right?

 

[DrNo]

Before you start taking things apart, try some Deoxit D5 spray on the contacts.

Thanks @Pete S.... had already tried that! Love the stuff but it didn't work in this case.

I'd cut the wires to get it out of the car (You can put connectors on the wire ends later) then carefully dremel off the rivet flange and pull that base off. What I think you'll see inside is that one of the wires, which were probably soldered to the connectors, has corroded. After you reattach it you can silicone the base back on.

@Thor 1211 Yes, I'm going to try this today... see if I can salvage the little unit!

If you have a Brit car shop near you perhaps you can scavenge one from a parts car. All of the British cars from the60’s and 70’s used that same flasher unit base!

Thanks @Gordon Holsinger but no chance... I live in the middle of Sydney... it's a long way to the nearest breaker's yard and I can't wait.

I do not see how any issue inside the flasher base would have an effect on any other indicators other than the flasher warning lamp. I assume your actual flashers work, right?

@Tom H Thanks for reply but read my original post. (Full disclosure: I'm an electronics engineer, so I know my way around this stuff.) Checked the globes first, and then systematically checked/cleaned/reterminated everything in the flasher circuit, from front to back. As per my original post, it's only the panel warning lamps that aren't working (light green wire from the flasher base), and if you press really hard on the bakelite base, they start working. The culprit is definitely the flasher base.

 

[Tom H]

it's only the panel warning lamps that aren't working (l

I guess I was confused by the use of plural terms "lamps" and "globes". Every Alpine I have seen has only a single warning lamp for the flasher. Had I known you were an electronics engineer (like myself) I would have assumed you knew what you were doing and the plural was just a typo. All makes sense now, and I'm sure you'll fix it when you get it apart. .

Tom

 

[DrNo]

The series II has a LH and RH warning lamp on the dash, one in the speedo and one in the tacho.

Regarding terminology, I would rather say "bulb" being a Brit, but I live in Australia, and they say "globe" :-/