I am looking at getting more power from my Tiger and wanted to get some thoughts on the pros/cons of a couple of different options I am looking into. Currently, I have a bone stock setup - 260, original 2BBl carb and manifold. I would like to build an engine that will get over 200 hp but still still be dependable driver. I've talked to folks about dropping in a 5 bolt 289 and others about a 5.0. I would like to keep the stock 4 speed in it as well. Would love any advice on what others have done and why. Also, any thoughts on intake, carb and exhaust set is appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Engine upgrade options
- Thread starter steveog
- Start date
engine build
Steve There are a number of ways to go you can build a realy Strong 289 by picking up a set of hi po heads and doing the cam bit along with the edlebrock performer intake and a 650 carb. replace all the bearings ect .Maybe a set of pistons or you could do the 302 thing but you would have to find a bell housing and re drill it for your trans . The engine rebuild and a good set of heads cost would be about the same for a 289 as a 302. I'm a power sort of guy so it was a nobrainer for me to go with the ford racing crate but i had a few extra $ at the time. So I did the rebuild on the 289 and put iton a engine stand as a spare .( the spare 289 i have was and is a strong little engine and put out the hp.) Parts for the 302 are a little easier to find and a few extra cubes are also nice so i if was going to do a build i would go the 302 route . check out racing junk . com for parts there is a lot of 302 stuff out there. The way you decide to go is up to you but the 302 is more bang for the buck imo . Earl bluoval
Steve There are a number of ways to go you can build a realy Strong 289 by picking up a set of hi po heads and doing the cam bit along with the edlebrock performer intake and a 650 carb. replace all the bearings ect .Maybe a set of pistons or you could do the 302 thing but you would have to find a bell housing and re drill it for your trans . The engine rebuild and a good set of heads cost would be about the same for a 289 as a 302. I'm a power sort of guy so it was a nobrainer for me to go with the ford racing crate but i had a few extra $ at the time. So I did the rebuild on the 289 and put iton a engine stand as a spare .( the spare 289 i have was and is a strong little engine and put out the hp.) Parts for the 302 are a little easier to find and a few extra cubes are also nice so i if was going to do a build i would go the 302 route . check out racing junk . com for parts there is a lot of 302 stuff out there. The way you decide to go is up to you but the 302 is more bang for the buck imo . Earl bluoval
jmthehermit
Donation Time
You could also go with a set of 1969 351 Windsors instead of the over priced 289 hi-po heads. I paid $125 for a running set that needed only minor cleaning.
Ford 302 are relatively cheap and plentiful. The problem with converting to a 302 from the 260 are: Need to upgrade the radiator due to increased heat from the 302. The stock radiator will not cut it when used with a 302. 302 uses a 6 bolt bellhousing and the bolt pattern will not match with the transmission used with the 260. The 260 trans has a narrow bolt layout versus the wide bolt pattern used with the 302 bellhousing. So you either swap trans or find a dual pattern bellhousing (very rare). Those are the major areas to consider when going to a 302. The easiest route to more HP is to find a 5 bolt 289. Those are rare and rebuilt 5 bolt 289s are fairly expensive. Another alternative is to add a low rise manifold and 4 bbl carb on the 260, plus Pertronic ignition. That combo will add 30 - 40 HP and is fairly cheap.
I took a different route. On Ebay I found a rebuilt 260 short block and rebuilt 260 heads that had port work done with slightly larger valves. Plus, I found a Comp Cams roller cam kit with a street cam and Edelbrock F4B manifold with a Edelbrock 4bl carb. My engine should be good for 270 - 280 HP and very driveable. The stock trans stays, along with the stock radiator.
I took a different route. On Ebay I found a rebuilt 260 short block and rebuilt 260 heads that had port work done with slightly larger valves. Plus, I found a Comp Cams roller cam kit with a street cam and Edelbrock F4B manifold with a Edelbrock 4bl carb. My engine should be good for 270 - 280 HP and very driveable. The stock trans stays, along with the stock radiator.
up grade
Steve Added HP will generate heat so plan on an alum rad anyway and also a lower shroud .You are in San Jose , It gets hot there I'm told . As to keeping the 4 spd, I did when I did my engine swap and am sorry I did not go to the 5 spd .The 5 spd is the way to go if there is anyway you can afford it swap out it. Then you skip the problems of matching up a bell housing .drilling and welding then theres finding the proper clutch fork. Taking the engine out is a pain in the arse , so do everything while its out. IMO It is easy for all of us to tell you what to do and how to spend your money on your car. But when we make mistakes or learn of something good we pass it on..Thats the beauty of this forum. You do not have to make the same mistakes we did. Earl bluoval
Steve Added HP will generate heat so plan on an alum rad anyway and also a lower shroud .You are in San Jose , It gets hot there I'm told . As to keeping the 4 spd, I did when I did my engine swap and am sorry I did not go to the 5 spd .The 5 spd is the way to go if there is anyway you can afford it swap out it. Then you skip the problems of matching up a bell housing .drilling and welding then theres finding the proper clutch fork. Taking the engine out is a pain in the arse , so do everything while its out. IMO It is easy for all of us to tell you what to do and how to spend your money on your car. But when we make mistakes or learn of something good we pass it on..Thats the beauty of this forum. You do not have to make the same mistakes we did. Earl bluoval
Thanks Earl. What is the 5 speed set up you went with? And if I may ask, the rough cost of the tranny/required conversion kits?
5 speed
Steve I did not install the 5 speed and am sorry I did not do it when I did the engine swap . There are a couple ways to go. You can get the conv kit from Tom Hall www.tigerengineering that is pretty much a bolt on or you can use the stock unit and relocate the shifter hole. Check the previous posts on the forums and other sites you will find a lot if info.reguarding the t5 swap. Then you can decide what if anything you want to do. Earl bluoval
Steve I did not install the 5 speed and am sorry I did not do it when I did the engine swap . There are a couple ways to go. You can get the conv kit from Tom Hall www.tigerengineering that is pretty much a bolt on or you can use the stock unit and relocate the shifter hole. Check the previous posts on the forums and other sites you will find a lot if info.reguarding the t5 swap. Then you can decide what if anything you want to do. Earl bluoval
I found a 5 bolt 289 that I picked up this week. I am thinking of boring it .30 and would love suggestions as to the upgrade/rebuild options to maximize power but keep the drive-ability. I think I want to go with the Edelbrock F4B and possibly a Holley 600 carb. What types of pistons, cams, etc. have folks put in their rebuild that they are happy with? Thanks again for everyone's advice.
Drivability and streetability are really up to one person and what kinda of driving you want to do.
Traffic will be a major down fall to any performance minded engine build.
Three things can keep this build from going bad for you.
1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. cooling.
all three values need a upgrade when you request more power.
That being said making the power out a small block ford with just add on components is not really hard.
One major key to doing this is to let the block breathe.
Or to make the cylinder heads breathe.
I built a daily driver 5.0 roller with E7 heads that were ported with roller rocker. Added a 600 street avenger/ hurricane intake and headers....This in a 67 mustang convertible could spin the tires at will. It would also run the vert up to 125mph with just the stomp of the right pedal.
The porting of the heads was the key. I used the stock roller grind. Even with this people thougt it had a bigger cam.
The engine actually loped. It was allowed to breathe.
In my 65 I had a 289 bored .030/ 302 rods and crank/ 351w (heads) 1.94/1.60 (valves) 54 combustion chambers, 1.6 roller rockers. with a really good porting and 7 degree valve job. Torker intake/ 750 holley/ Lunatti 488 bracket II cam.
235/45/zr 17's could not hold this power to the ground.
This car weighed 2700 .lbs.
I could drive it anywhere and it would run 140 mph plus.
The cooling upgrade was a cross flow radiator. The spark was a MSD 6 box and Duraspark dizzy. Fuel pressure was set at 10.lb solid.
There are other things that you can do to make sure the build stays together.
I highly suggest NEW ARP rod and main bolts. Balance the build. A preformance balancer and aluminum flywheel.
I had my 65 engine running in the 6 to 7k range with stock rods and stock crank. The engine was built in 94 and its still running strong
The piston are TRW forged and moly rings.
Traffic will be a major down fall to any performance minded engine build.
Three things can keep this build from going bad for you.
1. Spark
2. Fuel
3. cooling.
all three values need a upgrade when you request more power.
That being said making the power out a small block ford with just add on components is not really hard.
One major key to doing this is to let the block breathe.
Or to make the cylinder heads breathe.
I built a daily driver 5.0 roller with E7 heads that were ported with roller rocker. Added a 600 street avenger/ hurricane intake and headers....This in a 67 mustang convertible could spin the tires at will. It would also run the vert up to 125mph with just the stomp of the right pedal.
The porting of the heads was the key. I used the stock roller grind. Even with this people thougt it had a bigger cam.
The engine actually loped. It was allowed to breathe.
In my 65 I had a 289 bored .030/ 302 rods and crank/ 351w (heads) 1.94/1.60 (valves) 54 combustion chambers, 1.6 roller rockers. with a really good porting and 7 degree valve job. Torker intake/ 750 holley/ Lunatti 488 bracket II cam.
235/45/zr 17's could not hold this power to the ground.
This car weighed 2700 .lbs.
I could drive it anywhere and it would run 140 mph plus.
The cooling upgrade was a cross flow radiator. The spark was a MSD 6 box and Duraspark dizzy. Fuel pressure was set at 10.lb solid.
There are other things that you can do to make sure the build stays together.
I highly suggest NEW ARP rod and main bolts. Balance the build. A preformance balancer and aluminum flywheel.
I had my 65 engine running in the 6 to 7k range with stock rods and stock crank. The engine was built in 94 and its still running strong
The piston are TRW forged and moly rings.
atallamcs
Donation Time
More power
Lots of great advice here. I had my 260 rebuilt because I wanted the car kept "numbers" matching. It was a performance build that cost nearly $12K--pistons were custom made and the list goes on. If you want a quantum leap in performance, buy a crate engine!
My black tiger had well over 300hp with a built 260--http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1446859668078015567wvUHQT
Now, I would suggest some minor improvements that would be a great first step. If your current 260 is strong and healthy add to it a 4 bbl carburetor and manifold, a set of jet coated headers (control the heat) and a 2 inch exhaust system with cross over pipe into a set of flowmaster delta 50,s. Replace the stock air filter element with a K&N filter. Add to this set up a six blade fan, and you have a nicer running tiger. If you do not have a posi rear end make that change with a 307 set up and you will be very pleased. Fairly cost effective and puts you over 200hp.
Bill
Lots of great advice here. I had my 260 rebuilt because I wanted the car kept "numbers" matching. It was a performance build that cost nearly $12K--pistons were custom made and the list goes on. If you want a quantum leap in performance, buy a crate engine!
My black tiger had well over 300hp with a built 260--http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1446859668078015567wvUHQT
Now, I would suggest some minor improvements that would be a great first step. If your current 260 is strong and healthy add to it a 4 bbl carburetor and manifold, a set of jet coated headers (control the heat) and a 2 inch exhaust system with cross over pipe into a set of flowmaster delta 50,s. Replace the stock air filter element with a K&N filter. Add to this set up a six blade fan, and you have a nicer running tiger. If you do not have a posi rear end make that change with a 307 set up and you will be very pleased. Fairly cost effective and puts you over 200hp.
Bill
I like Bills approach. Simple yet effective. 4 V intake and carb upgrade.
and a distributor upgrade could make a major difference.