Engine / Pumpkin-Diff / Rear Springs / Paint

[Andrew]

I have finally had enough. I was looking at the Alpine this morning and it is time to pull the engine, drop the rear, replace or rebuild the rear springs(add a leaf?) and check the diff as I have some slack in the drive line that almost drives me nuts when running slow. I will be sure to check back in the past posting and I will keep a photo and text log of what I do to share and post as an article similar to what I did with the car rebuild doc.

If you are new to the club you should check out the Featured Articles, Todd posted a great one on fuel tanks, JimE with head mods etc.

After all of this then paint.

I worry about doing the rear end as it is all new to me. Not sure if I can just unhook the break lines, drive shaft and just drop the rear end or if there is more to it. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks a bunch guys,
Andrew

 

[jumpinjan]

Not sure if I can just unhook the break lines, drive shaft and just drop the rear end or if there is more to it.

Do you have a hub puller?
I wrote an newsletter article on rear axle rebuilding.
Jan

 

[Andrew]

Do you have a hub puller?
I wrote an newsletter article on rear axle rebuilding.
Jan

Hi Jan,

No, I do not have a hub puller. I am way up in Canada so I will have to try and find one. Shipping one from a member in the states would probably cost as much as purchasing one.

I was just thinking if I have to pull the rear down to rebuild the leaf springs, what other work should I do. I do have play in the drive line and I think it is from the Diff/pumpkin. What is involved in changing out these bolt that infamously loosen off? I will have to look for a tech doc/article if there is one. If there is no Doc I will produce one as I learn. It is alway nice to give other a travel path. I hate not knowing.

Thank you for the communication,
Andrew

 

[DanR]

Dropping the rear assy

Andrew, A simple removal or dis-connect of the rear brake line (Rubber) will allow the removal in regards to the hyd system. The emergency/park brake cable is also very simple.

I must refresh my knowledge of the Series your have....

DanR

 

[pruyter]

Right now I am in the middle of taking care of loosen and broken bolts which secure the crown wheel to the carrrier in the differential.
I was not able to arrange for new original bolts so I have ordered in the UK 8 aerospace bolts which are described as NAS 1306-4 and there have to been taken off about 0.1 inch of the lenght of this bolts in order to make them fit.
They are quite expensive but they will work.
Important is to use Loctite 262 red. I will use also the old tab washers which are in fact the cause of loosening of the bolts, but now this washers are flattened and are safe to use again. Torquening demands 50 lbs.
Important is to change the bolts one by one so that the crown wheel is staying at its place!

Regards,

Peter

 

[Andrew]

Andrew, A simple removal or dis-connect of the rear brake line (Rubber) will allow the removal in regards to the hyd system. The emergency/park brake cable is also very simple.
I must refresh my knowledge of the Series your have....
DanR

Hi Dan,
Thank you for the note. I have a S3, I had the hubs off about 6 years ago and installed new gaskets / seals and all is good that way. It is good to be bak on line after these past years. I look forward to being more involved again. It was nice that Nick just made contact again and I was able to help with the graphics.
Please feel free to call on me any time.
Andrew

 

[Andrew]

Right now I am in the middle of taking care of loosen and broken bolts which secure the crown wheel to the carrrier in the differential.
I was not able to arrange for new original bolts so I have ordered in the UK 8 aerospace bolts which are described as NAS 1306-4 and there have to been taken off about 0.1 inch of the lenght of this bolts in order to make them fit.
They are quite expensive but they will work.
Important is to use Loctite 262 red. I will use also the old tab washers which are in fact the cause of loosening of the bolts, but now this washers are flattened and are safe to use again. Torquening demands 50 lbs.
Important is to change the bolts one by one so that the crown wheel is staying at its place!
Regards,
Peter

Thanks Peter, your inform is appreciated. It all sounds possible to tackle.
As always you guys are great help.
Andrew

 

[65beam]

engine

After unhooking the brake lines from the wheel cylinders you can remove the bolts holding the backing plate to the rear end housing and remove the axle without pulling the hubs.