Engine lifting points

[Derek]

My SV engine has no shackles or any obvious points to attach a hoist. I have one stud from the block at the left front. Going under the motor seems to be asking for it to rotate and cause mayhem. What is my best method of going about this?

I'm pulling it because the main bearings are coming apart, plus who knows what else I'll find..the whole engine is coming apart

Thanks Derek

 

[twospeed]

Found this on-line awhile ago,might help.

 

[Derek]

does give me an idea, I plan to use a balance bar on the hoist, but I like the use of straps vs chain, seems more secure going under the engine and less risk of slipping and damaging something. I'd like to grab it from the top, but I'd also like not to be pulling it at all..

Thanks Derek

 

[George Coleman]

Stock motors had two lift points with factory attachments, one was at the front of motor at the thermastat housing and the other was attached at the right side rear clyinder head bolt! (Thats looking at the enegin from the front of car). Most cars over the years have lost these brackets.

 

[AlsPine]

If you are going to do a complete strip down of the engine, there are some modifications that you should do including drilling out the oil passage between the center main barring to the oil galley.

Here is one paragraph taken from the modifications page.
Here is the full link:
www*team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-5/techtips/techtips.html
You need to replace the * with a .
Good luck with your project.

Engine oiling modifications for improved reliability:

1. Groove the center main journal on the crank the width of the groove in the bearing shell and approximately .060 inch deep.

2. Drill the oil passage from the main oil galley to the center main all the way with a 21/64 inch drill bit.

3. File the oil pump housing to provide no more than .001 inch of end play for the pump gears.

4. Obtain a new oil pressure relief valve or shim the old one to provide 60 psi of oil pressure. These valves are also prone to sticking if the pistons are too tight.

5. Be sure and remove all the oil galley plugs and thoroughly clean the block. Don't have the block cleaned at the machine shop without also cleaning it thoroughly yourself before assembly.

 

[Tom H]

In this photo you can just see the two lift points George notes:

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/plugin...?categoryid=3&p17_sectionid=2&p17_imageid=344

Near the firewall, on the head, you can see the thick, black, angle bracket. And at the front, just in front of the valve cover, you can just see the tall, flat, thinner steel bracket. It has a large (1.5"?) hole.


Tom

 

[Derek]

Thanks all, I knew the brackets were there at one time but they are long gone now, so I'll just have to do without them. I may fabricate some replacements for the rebuild and ease putting it back.

Thanks Derek

 

[Faux tgr 66]

My Series IV '65 parts car has both brackets on the engine. What they worth to you?

 

[spudman5]

I pulled my SV engine last fall. I posted some pictures showing the brackets and attachment points at: http://s1186.photobucket.com/albums/z369/spudman5/Sunbeam Alpine SV/

For the front left bracket (when viewed from the front of the engine), I had a broken bracket that I was able to cut down in length and attach. You should be able to make something out of a heavy flat metal bracket from a hardware store. This attached to the lower bolt on the water pump.

For the right front and right rear, I used the 2 L-brackets that came with the leveler. I'm sure you could pick up some L-brackets that would work at a hardware store. They wouldn't need to be as heavy as the ones I used. The Alpine SV 4-cylinder engine isn't that heavy. These attched to the head bolts.

When I pulled the engine, I left the transmission in the car. I pulled everything off of the engine and emptied most of the compartment before pulling the engine. This gave me a lot of operating space and it went quite smoothly.

Mike Tanner

 

[Ken Ellis]

A good source for ready-made brackets strong enough for this task is HD/Lowes in the electric aisle. Look for the Unistrut, or "Sturdi-strut" or whatever product line, alongside the metal electrical conduit. They have pre-made L-brackets of 1/4" steel, with either one or two holes per leg. This stuff is strong, but still workable by hand-held tools if necessary for filing, drilling, or cutting. It's about twice the thickness of the original brackets. It would be quick work to cut off the excess, drill a new (smaller) hole, and fasten it with an additional fine-pitch nut and washer on the original long head studs.

Jumpin' Jan S. has made a custom pulling bracket that also fits nicely. I believe it's outlined in the Marque PDFs.

If you're pulling engine and trans together, just be sure that whatever you use is stout enough to lift both (easy) at the extreme angle necessary to clear the bodywork (not so easy). In other words, the factory lift points are more than adequate for a straight-up lift of the engine only, but I'm not sure I'd trust them for engine+trans at a 45-degree angle. (That said, I believe others have done it successfully. It just looks too risky for my taste...)

In addition to the "right" places on the engine to lift, I have used S-hooks (old-school 5/16" heavy ones) in the hole at the corner of the engine mount (left side) and a similar one on the right side, near the fuel pump... then a bracket at the rear. The three points proved very stable for lifting.

 

[65beam]

lifting

all of my engines have two head studs. these studs were original to all engines. one is on the drivers side at the front of the head and the other is on the same side at the back. this one is where the original bracket mounted. i have a chain that the links slip over the studs. i also have nuts that go on the studs and hold the chain to the engine. we have a hoist that hangs from a beam running the width of the shop. we usually hook about 2/3 of the way back from the front of the engine. we have been pulling engines with trans in this manner for over forty years. works good and is real simple. we also install the entire unit this way.

 

[agmason54]

65Beam,
That's the only way I have ever done it.Less is more.I have done it using a come-a-long on a homemade swing set banged together out of 4x4s under a shade tree of course.
Al

 

[RootesRooter]

I also pull my engine this way, but I add heavy-duty washers under the nuts, just in case. The owner just needs to replace the incorrect head bolt with a stud.

I've found that using a chain held on the studs this way also makes re-installing the engine easier - if your hands are big enough - by allowing me to squeeze together the lengths of the chain and fine-tune the angle of attack to mate the clutch and pilot bushing to the input shaft.

 

[65beam]

lift points

i use two of the heavy washers that were originally used on the studs. we have done this many times and the wife remembers where to put the hook depending on whether the engine is coming out or going in. we have a couple bolts that go thru the links to hold the hook where we want it. we were at a flea market in october and she bought one of the adjustable balancing bars so i guess we'll try it when we set the engine and trans back in the series 4.