Electric fans

[wframe]

I have been away from the board for awhile while I have been working on my '83 Honda Magna motorcycle. I am trying to keep the wife happy by only working on one toy at a time in between working on her projects!

My '62 Alpine has been sidelined for a couple of months. Somehow, 2 of the fan blades got bent enough to carve a big arch in my radiator; deep enough that a new core will be required. When I get it recored, I am considering going to an electric fan. Has anyone made this conversion? If so, can I get some advice/suggestions on parts needed and process for installation?

As always, any ideas and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

[JonPiz]

I would definately recommend the conversion and go for a fan that pushes through the rad from the front of the car. I have fitted a 12" fan which seems to be the largest I could fit in the space. Kenlowe is a well known make but there are loads of fans on Ebay for sale but dont know what the quality is like. It needs to have a thermostatic sensor that either goes in the top rad hose or there are sensors now that just go in the fins of the rad. Make sure you use a relay to switch it and wire it into the constant feed so it can still cool your rad after you have left the car. Hope this helps

 

[Nickodell]

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=8705

 

[chard]

Hi
I've also been thinking of this mod, but was thinking of a "puller" fan because it won't interfere with airflow when driving. Does a puller or pusher make much difference?

Chard

 

[JonPiz]

Hi
I've also been thinking of this mod, but was thinking of a "puller" fan because it won't interfere with airflow when driving. Does a puller or pusher make much difference?

Chard

You will have difficulty finding one to fit on the engine side of the rad cause of the clearance between the rad and the pulley

 

[Nickodell]

Hi
I've also been thinking of this mod, but was thinking of a "puller" fan because it won't interfere with airflow when driving. Does a puller or pusher make much difference?

Chard

In theory a puller is better as it obstructs the airflow slightly less, but in practice it doesn't matter if the fan is large enough and has a high enough air flow (many new cars have pushers). I fitted one some 20 years ago and set the thermostatic switch to 190 deg. F (88C), and it only comes on when stationary or moving slowly, ram air being enough all other times with one sole exception, which was when ascending a very long hill with the ambient temperature over 90.

Be sure to wire in a bypass switch so that you can turn it on manually if the t/static sw. fails, as my first one did.

 

[bashby]

I posted this in the modified forum:
http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10630&page=2
2-Spal 10" pusher fans, custom bracket (~$30).

 

[64beam]

Hi
I've also been thinking of this mod, but was thinking of a "puller" fan because it won't interfere with airflow when driving. Does a puller or pusher make much difference?

Chard

Hi Chard,

It can be done, but very little space (I did it but not ideal). I used a 10" fan mounted as far across as it would go on the radiator return side. I was also going to fit a smaller fan beside it, but I am going to go for one 12" fan in front of the radiator. If you had an aluminium radiator that was thinner than a stock radiator, it may also work.

Regards, Robin.

 

[atallamcs]

Fan

Hi There,
Just curious as to why the fan? An alpine, if all working right is not a candiate for overheating. I use to drive mine all day long in Napa Valley where it was 100+, no issues.
Bill

 

[wframe]

My front end has had some of the support structure for the radiator damaged so the radiator is probably not quite in the original location. This puts the fan is just too close for comfort. As I said, two of the blades got bent and destroyed the radiator. I would like to avoid that possibility. Also, here in the great San Joaquin Valley, 100+ temps start in early June and last through September, often hitting 110+, and I have had some problems with the temp climbing as I sit at a long stop light.

 

[RootesRich]

What you haven't mentioned was if your damaged radiator was the stock 2 row or if it had been increased to 3 row. If the former, there's a significant portion of your overheating problem and adding an electric fan to a rebuilt 2 row will be of little help in your climate.

When you have your radiator repaired make sure it's a 3 row "D" core. From what I've been told, the "D" aids the additional row's cooling even more. Ian Spencer presented the D core radiator at the Invasion he hosted three years ago. Perhaps someone else in attendance can post further info as I can't currently find my notes.

 

[Jim in PA]

2 row to 3 row rad

last winter I had my rad rebuilt to 3 rows of veins from the stock 2 rows. I don't know abouth the D as mentioned below...I am just hearing that as I read today.
My car, a 1966 SV ST, would have trouble staying under 210~220f in summer at a long stop light. (Original rad probably clogged up some too) I use a 170 thermostat all year.
Now with the rebuilt 3 row rad I run at the 170f of the thermostat rating at all times, even at long stop light in summer heat of 95f the engine temp stays around 170f. It doesn't often go above 90's here in SE Pennsylvania.
If your stock rad was damaged by the fan due to some sort of damage to the front of the car you may want to address that first. (engine mounts...?)The 3 row rad uses the whole depth (front to back) of the rad top and bottom tanks and would place the inner rad veins closer to your engine fan. You may find that with a 3 row rad you have no clearance between the fan and the rad and that you'll be only able to use an electric pusher fan in front of your rad or that the rad won't fit at all because the water pump and pully hits the rad.
If all is in proper form on the car a 3 row rad with an elect pusher fan for emergency backup seems to be the best set up especially in a region with
100f+ summer heat.
Just my 2 cents...