Door hinge renew

[bobbo]

For my series V, driver's side. The upper door hinge is sloppy to the point that the door drops about 3/8 inch at the b post. Causing the door paint and b post paint to chip off.
I'm looking for info on rebuilding hinges as I can only think this must be an issue with many of our cars.
Thanks Bob

 

[DanR]

Bob, I ordered some components from McMasterCarr a few years ago to rebuild some of my door hinges. I will look for the details on the materials, time permitting. My desk top computer is not available at present..... Send me a PM or E-mail in a day or so....as a reminder.

 

[hartmandm]

I think the details might be in this thread: https://forum.sunbeamalpine.org/index.php?threads/passenger-door-hinges.26511

Mike

 

[bobbo]

Thank you to Dan and Mike. Dan, the thread Mike sent me to had your info on parts to procced with the repair.
I should be able to locate bushings and rod locally.
Removal of the pin? Is it pressed in? Will heating the hinge allow it to be pressed out?
Bob

 

[DanR]

I think the details might be

DOn't know for sure what we (SAOCA) would do without Mike..... Always helpful,

THANKS Much,

 

[bobbo]

Removal of the pin? Is it pressed in? Will heating the hinge allow it to be pressed out?
Bob

 

[jumpinjan]

Most of the pins will NOT come out with heat or whatever.
I repair mine using drill rod as the new pin and drill & ream the hole. These are best done on a milling machine with a good machine vice.
Jan

 

[windlessdog]

I hand drilled my pins stepping up in size after my pilot hole leaving a small amount of the pin then used heat and punches to pop the last part out, but as Jan said if you can do it in a Mill it would be a lot easier and less chance of damage.

 

[bobbo]

Sounds like I'll need to find a machine shop, if not some good hinges.
Bob

 

[jumpinjan]

The new holes are a precision sized hole using a drill then reamed to within 0.001" of the diameter. The pin material needs to be precise thats why I use drill rod. Those replacement door pins that they sell in the auto parts store are not precise enough.
Also, you need to replace the same hinge back to the same location where it was removed. Why? The hinges come in various widths.
Jan

 

[PROCRAFT]

USE/DO AS JAN SAYS REGARDING THE PINS!!!!!!!!!!

 

[Asm109]

Do you harden the pin or just use the soft O1?
What part wears? The pin or the hole in the moving part of the hinge?

 

[jumpinjan]

Do you harden the pin or just use the soft O1?
What part wears?

I don't remember the hardness of the drill rod that I used. I bought the drill rod & drill & reamer all from McMaster-Carr.
I drill & tap a 6/32 thread for a set-screw at the hinge bottom to lock the pin in place. So, in the future the hinge can be re-lube.
If the original pins cannot be remove (believe me, I tried everything..heat, tons of pressure...) the pins can be EDM-drilled at a tool repair shop.
Some original hinges that I inspected, has the pin snapped in half, still inside the hinge. That gives you an idea on how TIGHT the top of the pin is to the hinge. The pins have a knurling at the top for a force fit in the hinge.
Jan

 

[bobbo]

Just to update. I used a hack saw today to cut the pin at the 2 thrust washer locations. Actually only cut through at one of the thrust washer locations as the pin was snapped in half at the other. One third of the pin fell out ( top of hinge ) and I proceeded to drill out the other 2 portions. Started with a small pilot hole and increased in size till there was just a slim sleeve of the pin left, ( windlessdog's suggestion ) which popped out quite easy. The bore is just slightly over 5/16 so I'm thinking to go Dan's route of bushings and pin. Imagine I'll tack weld the 2 halves together to keep all in line while I hopefully can bore out for the bush sizing.