chimpodunker
Donation Time
I would like to free up one toggle switch to add a toggle for a fuel pump. Can I add the panel lights to the light switch and use the panel light switch for the fuel pump?
Gary
Gary
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Combining Electrical Circuits
- Thread starter chimpodunker
- Start date
I am not sure from an electrical standpoint if that "new" condition would be "good" as the electrical system in the Rootes cars can be a bit temperamental. I know that when I added an electrical fan, to cool the engine/motor, I just bought a factory looking switch and added it to the dash between the last switch and the cubby/glove compartment --- it looked great. In fact, I even had a new set of identification tags and gave the new switch for the cooling fan the name of "Blower" and it all looked like it came from the factory
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.chimpodunker
Donation Time
I'll be rewiring the whole car with the Rebel harness on eBay. So I will have more circuits. Just not sure if the switch will handle the increased amperage from the additional dash lights. Also converting to LED instrument lights so that should help. I will also be using a fan and would like to use the fuel pump switch for both but again unsure if the switch will handle that.
Gary
Gary
I wired my panel light switch to the light switch more than 30 years ago (at the time, I had set up the panel switch as a security 'kill' switch) and it has been that way ever since, both with the original harness and stock bulbs and later with a Rebel harness and LEDs. I have never had a problem with this set-up. Today the panel switch is a dummy switch, but one of these days I will use it for fog and/or driving lights.
chimpodunker
Donation Time
Thanks Jim. How was the install of the Rebel harness? Mine is being shipped. I'm worried that I may have bit off a little to much.
Gary
Gary
90days
Donation Time
The best and safest way to wire an electric fuel pump is to use a relay circuit between your pump and your ignition switch. You should also install an inertia or oil pressure switch that will cut electrical power to the fuel pump in case of an accident and you’re unable to turn off the ignition switch manually. You can find these switches for an example on Ford, Mustangs, Taurus, Rangers and other models. These switches will shut off/close on impact and can be reset by depressing reset button. All modern cars have this safety feature built in and it gives you some piece of mind to protect yourself and your loved ones who ride with you or drive your car.
It wasn't bad at all. I had to ask Pete (aka Paul A) multiple questions as I went, but the only real challenge I remember was feeding the rear harness through the hole in the back. That took some effort, as it is a tight fit, but overall it went fine. It took some time, especially since I crimped and soldered all connections, but I won't hesitate to do it again...On another car, of course.
Since you aren't keeping the car original, one extra thing I did that worked well was to install a couple of multi circuit connectors for the dashboard. That allowed me to pre-wire the dash and just plug it in after installation. It felt like a nice improvement and will certainly help if I ever need to remove it.
DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
That is something I did not do! If I had given any thought to it, lots of time could have been saved crawling in and out from under the dash...
sunalp
Diamond Level Sponsor
Gary,
I've installed 3 of these harnesses to customer cars as well as my own Series V. Please feel free to ask any questions you may
have when you want to install it. I have some documentation I can send you as well.
Too bad you're not closer!
Cheers!
Steve
DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
A Note to interested PARTIES, Paul A has recently made some of us aware that He is turning the reins (Wiring Harness) over to Steve (Sunalp), so sunalp is the Gent to call upon if you need help or have questions on the Rebel Wiring Harness.
Paul A was very helpful when I started doing my Blue Boy! I really did not want to do the wiring, did not have experience in that sort of thing, but necessity forced me to get started, and continued by the great assistance of Paul. We had lots phone and E-mail chats. At times I later realized I had called Him when it was inconvenient, but He still assisted kindly as always. My thanks to a real Gentleman!
Paul A was very helpful when I started doing my Blue Boy! I really did not want to do the wiring, did not have experience in that sort of thing, but necessity forced me to get started, and continued by the great assistance of Paul. We had lots phone and E-mail chats. At times I later realized I had called Him when it was inconvenient, but He still assisted kindly as always. My thanks to a real Gentleman!
CRBASIN
Donation Time
I installed Paul's wiring harness last year. To add to the comments above:
1. Check the main power cable from the battery to the fuse block. My NASA engineer neighbor condemned the one in my car because of brittle insulation.
2. Add a large (maxi) fuse in this power cable. I did this near the fuse block but on reflection I think I should have located it next to the battery.
3. Add relays for electric fans and fuel pump.
John
1. Check the main power cable from the battery to the fuse block. My NASA engineer neighbor condemned the one in my car because of brittle insulation.
2. Add a large (maxi) fuse in this power cable. I did this near the fuse block but on reflection I think I should have located it next to the battery.
3. Add relays for electric fans and fuel pump.
John
Gary,
Based on your question, I assume you want to free up the panel toggle switch and you are ok with the gauge lights coming on whenever the parking lights / head lights are on. You don't need the ability to turn off the gauge lights when the parking lights / head lights are on. If so, I think the easiest mod is to take the wires connected to the panel toggle switch and connect them together. That is equivalent to the panel toggle switch always being in the 'on' position. Very easy to undue the mod in the future if desired. You could also install a new toggle switch under the dash (and out of sight) and use that new toggle switch to keep the panel lights toggle behavior, if desired.
I curious about the desire for having a manual toggle switch to control the fuel pump. If you wire up the electric fuel pump as recommended by '90days' off the ignition wire, what benefit does the the manual toggle switch provide? Are you trying to add a hurdle to someone attempting to steal the vehicle?
Mike
There is an extra switched lug in the light switch, so it only takes a second to connect the panel wire to the light switch.
And, while we’re talking about changes to the stock setup, one other thing I did was create individual ground wires for each gauge, getting rid of the stock daisy chain. I don’t think I incorporated this into my “quick release” connections, but I know I ran a bunch of ground wires to one or two large lugs that I attached to one of the bolts under the dash. So, it would be a simple matter to release all of them at once.
chimpodunker
Donation Time
Thanks everyone. A lot of good info. I especially like adding quick connect for gauge wiring. If I put the dash altogether will it go in without removing the steering column?
Gary
Gary
Truthfully, it has been so long since I did it that I don't really remember and I am not near my car and can't look. But, I am fairly certain the stock switch only has two terminals. And, if you look closely at the wiring diagram, you will see that one of the wires goes to the panel switch, so that becomes unnecessary, just leaving two.
loose_electron
Donation Time
You want that fuse (350A is what I used) back near the battery, you got it installed at the wrong end. If that hefty battery cable chafes through and shorts to the frame, you got nothing to burn up except the cable and the battery. If it's near the battery, then if the main cable shorts out then the fuse melts, as it should.
I also suggest putting a 40A fuse (value may vary depending on your cars loads and lights) in the main battery feed line that goes to the ignition switch, from the starter solenoid. Put that inline, near the starter solenoid.
This additional fuse protects the power feed lines associated with the ignitions switch (Battery Feed, Accessory, Run, crank) which then feeds the normal fuse block that is part of the Paul A Rebel wiring harness.
With the new wiring harness and those two additional you have a bulletproof electrical system.
One other tweak - You may want to (when you get done) measure all the currents through all the fuses in the fuse block, and adjust the values used. I found most of the values provided a lot larger than what was needed. If you have a circuit with everything turned on and running, using a fuse roughly 2X in current is a good value to work with.