Clutch Master Replacement (Non-stock)

[mferris]

I'm ready to replace the master cylinder on my '66 SV since my rebuild must have failed - so I'm looking for the quickest/easiest way to replace - but SS only has Tiger masters in stock (which will work with a spacer and new line + adapter) - but I'd rather get it done a little cheaper.

Are there non-stock 5/8 master cylinders that people have used which are nearly stock to install?

I'm really looking for something that is < $150 for the Tiger setup and won't force me to search for clevis/spacers/lines which will work. Otherwise I'll just get the Tiger setup from SS.

As to what I've done (and I just want to replace the master at this point):
I've replaced the slave, put in a new line, and "rebuilt" the master with kit from SS, and used a vacuum system to bleed the system - and I'm still only getting about 1/4" of travel on the slave. On the rebuild - I was only able to replace one of the two gaskets on the piston (the one on the end, and ensured that the cup was facing out toward the engine). The other I could not find in the kit/didn't see it in any pictures, and could not easily deduce how to get the piston apart on that end to easily replace (if necessary).

 

[Barry]

No personal experience, but I have been told that the Wilwood 260-2636 is a direct replacement.

http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...up=Integral Reservoir Compact Master Cylinder

Compare the MC you have to the Wilwood dimensions. Wilwood tech support (805-388-1188 or customerreply@wilwood.com) is typically very good.

 

[hartmandm]

Mike,

I'm puzzled about your comment regarding a second gasket on the piston. I've attached a photo of my series V clutch master internals and a poor photo of the SS rebuild kit, which contained 3 rubber pieces.
#1 is a small rubber cup, spring goes into one end, piston pushes the other end.
#2 is a rubber washer / cup, which goes onto the piston end.
#3 is a large sealing cap, which is mounted externally.

The #2 washer / cup was difficult to remove and install, but I was able to force it over the end of the piston during removal and installation. If you didn't replace #2, I'd suggest you take it apart again and swap it.

If your SS kit is missing #2, contact Rick.

Higher res photos to enable zooming:
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20141016-003-clutch-master.jpg
http://wp.mhartman.net/wp-content/uploads/20141016-004-clutch-master.jpg

Mike

 

[George Coleman]

2 cents worth , send the master and the slave to White Post and have them sleeved they will last longer than you after that. If you want the stock stuff!

 

[mferris]

Thanks guys.

hartmandm - if I recall correctly - your piston is slightly different mine, I *only* replaced the #1 (which required removal of a very small ring which held on the cup - but I might be forgetting what I did). The #2 ring I was unable to remove - it may have been in the kit, but I was so frustrated with #1 that I gave up (which is probably why it doesn't work).

At this point - I'd rather just put a Wilwood cylinder on it (stock isn't as important since I've already changed a few things. Looking for the simplest/cheapest answer at this point.

-M

 

[Mike O'D]

I just re-built one with the kit from SS. The #2 cup shown on Mike's picture was a bit tough to replace. Small screwdriver to pry the old one off the rod (it stretched and didn't break). New one stretched enough to get back in position. I put it on from the opposite end - seemed like it would be easier.

Mike

 

[mikephillips]

If you didn't replace the one labeled as #2 in the photo, that will be a problem since it is the one that pushes the fluid out the line to the slave. And if you did replace it you have to ensure that the lip of the seal is facing towards the line end of the cylinder so that the pressure will cause it to spread out and endure a tight seal against the cylinder bore.

 

[mferris]

Now I'm really intrigued - mine didn't look like the picture much at all if I recall correctly. The piston was different - but I'm pretty sure it was a stock (or near-stock) clutch master.

On mine there were two washers which were attached to the piston (not just resting on it). I am reasonably confident that I removed and replaced the piston in the same orientation - but that doesn't meant that it wasn't in the right order when I opened it up.

#1 was a cupped washer on the piston, so I removed the end of the piston (which had a very small retaining ring with IIRC a white spacer) and replaced it with the cupped washer in the SS kit (which fit).


#2 (which is closer to the clutch pedal) was a ring - not a cup - and since I couldn't determine if I could pull it off without risk breaking - I left it. I agree this is likely my problem.

#3 I had to split some and force over the clevis since I could not easily remove the clevis - but since it didn't do anything other than keep dirt out - I figured it wasn't a big deal.

I agree that the #2 is likely my problem (since I did not replace it).

Since I'm going to take it out anyway - I'll have to remove the main retaining ring and see what it looks like again and post pictures. I've seen other threads where there are (at least?) 2 different types of pistons/masters - my presumption is I have a different type in my '66.

Soon I think I'll have a Wilwood if I can easily get the hydraulic line to bend the right direction without crimping it.

My biggest problem is that I'm 45min from where the car is stored - so I only have one shot every weekend to work on it - if I don't have the right parts, I have to wait at least another week.

Again, I might be wrong on all the above - But since this is the the Internet - everything is always well reasoned and true.......

-M

 

[DenJr67]

I am diving in headfirst and just ordered the Wilwood 260-2636

the only problem I forsee is that the outlet of the Wilwood is going to have the 3/8"-24 inverted flare fitting for the 3/16 brake line and the slave cylinder has a 7/16"-20 for 1/4' line with a bubble flare and I have no solution ...yet