Clutch kit problems

[Green67Alpine]

Hi Folks, After a totally wonderful drive on Sunday (about 3 hours), I started to drive to work today and had no clutch. Sunday on my predrive check I noticed the clutch fluid was getting dark, kinda blackish, the master and slave were rebuilt within the year, but with VB kits (new owner didn't know any better) I used DOT 4 fluid. It looks like the seals etc are melting. Has anyone else had a problem like this? The fluid level has not gone down (as of last night) I didn't have time to check this morning. I cleaned all the plumbing with solvent, and honed the cylinders, I have noticed the last two times out the clutch pedal has been creaking, (do I have a warning system I'm not aware of).
Any thoughts ? Thanks in advance for ideas..

Tom j

 

[Ken Ellis]

The dark fluid is the warning system for complete rebuild, in my limited experience. The creaking is the pedal pivot, which can be lubed into submission. Are you using the Castrol brake fluid?

At least you got your three hours of driving in, before the three hours of maintenance... (thus maintaining the 1:1 ratio.)

Ken

 

[Green67Alpine]

At least you got your three hours of driving in, before the three hours of maintenance... (thus maintaining the 1:1 ratio.)

How true ! but last year it was maintenance 150 + driving 0.

I'll be using Castrol after this is repaired.

Tom j

 

[Ken Ellis]

Ahhh... but think of next year...

 

[Bill Blue]

Tom, someone in the automotive know (in the industry, think it was Barry) posted that DOT 4 fluid was a no-no. Cannot remember if the reason was compatibility issues. Overall, the best is DOT 3, regardless of brand.

Bill

 

[jumpinjan]

and honed the cylinders

I would never use a "brake" hone on any hydraulic cylinders. They need to be polished, and not scratched with anything courser than 400 (600 does a good job on the aluminum). The rubber cups don't like the abrasion on a rough cylinder and it will cause too much drag and wear the cups down and then leak in a short time.
Jan

 

[skywords]

I would never use a "brake" hone on any hydraulic cylinders. They need to be polished, and not scratched with anything courser than 400 (600 does a good job on the aluminum). The rubber cups don't like the abrasion on a rough cylinder and it will cause too much drag and wear the cups down and then leak in a short time.
Jan

Diddo that

Take a 3/8 aluminum rod 10 or so inches long and slit one end about four inches down the center. Chuck in your drill with a piece of sandpaper or red scoth brite in the slit and polish it with that.

If the women don't find ya handsome they should at least find ya handy.

 

[jumpinjan]

Be careful with a power drill. I do all mine by hand and a wooden dowel and glue some 600 paper to it and wrap it. Remove some when it gets too tight and then work it by hand for a few minutes...That's it. Look inside and its like a mirror finish.
Jan

 

[Green67Alpine]

Ok, I understand about the honing I see where polished would be much better than cross hatched, I talked to rick @ SS and he said that DOT 3 will dissolve the rubber and to only use DOT 4 in the clutch and brakes, I've got both in the shop and don't really know what I put in the clutch. Since I'e got problems it must have been #3. When I remove the cylinders to rebuild them again I'll try the polishing technique, and listen to the supplier on the fluid..
If any thing out of the ordinary turns up I"ll post it.
Thanks for all the replies !


Happy Thanksgiving to all !!

Tom j

 

[Alpineracer8]

It's always been my understanding that American brake fluid is DOT 3, the Castrol GTLMA for British cars is DOT 4 and silicone brake fluid is DOT 5. From an experience a long time ago, I know for a fact that DOT 3 in a British car is a no-no as it is not compatible with the British rubber seals. DOT 4 is the correct fluid to use and I personally use that in both my Tiger and my Alpine vintage race car. The only drawback to using that type of fluid is that it's hydroscopic, i.e. it attracts moisture. Draining the system and replacing the fluid every couple of years is a good idea for long cylinder life. I've also used DOT 5 silicone fluid, which is compatible with American car brake systems as well as British car brake systems, with both using DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids respectively. The advantage with silicone fluid is that it is not hydroscopic and it doesn't harm your paint should you spill or splash some. I used to run that in my old Tiger but after experiencing some braking problems with the car (a hard pedal but no brakes on a race track makes a believer out of you...and quickly, I might add...), I switched back to DOT 4 Castrol GTLMA and experienced no further problems.

My suggestion is to run DOT 4 and just know that you'll have to change the fluid every now and then.

My .02 worth,