-
Welcome to the new SAOCA website. Already a member? Simply click Log In/Sign Up up and to the right and use your same username and password from the old site. If you've forgotten your password, please send an email to membership@sunbeamalpine.org for assistance.
If you're new here, click Log In/Sign Up and enter your information. We'll approve your account as quickly as possible, typically in about 24 hours. If it takes longer, you were probably caught in our spam/scam filter.
Enjoy.
Clutch - Double Step to engage
- Thread starter chubby
- Start date
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
Toyanvil is not crazy; he responded to a post that I subsequently deleted so I could change some wording and hopefully prevent some irrelevant nitpicking.
The "improved" post follows:
Randall,
A partial list of things that could cause the problem you described includes:
Having to "pump up" a hydraulic clutch linkage system before being able to engage a gear suggests that either the clutch is not being completely disengaged or that the clutch is not remaining completely disengaged long enough to make the shift.
The first step is to determine (a) whether or not the clutch is properly disengaging and (b) whether or not the clutch is remaining completely disengaged. With the engine NOT running (and the parking brake dis-engaged), put the transmission in first gear and fully depress / hold the clutch pedal. If you can initially easily roll the car forward / backward, then the clutch is completely disengaged and most of the possible causes can be eliminated. Continue to hold the clutch pedal fully depressed for 10-15 seconds; if you can still easily roll the car forward / backward, internal leakage in the master and slave cylinders can be eliminated.
If the clutch is not completely and persistently releasing, you need to determine why not and correct the cause(s). If the clutch release system is working correctly, then you probably need to look at the transmission.
Never say never, but the problem you described does not strike me as being a transmission issue.
The "improved" post follows:
Randall,
A partial list of things that could cause the problem you described includes:
1. Mis-adjusted or incorrectly installed clutch master cylinder linkage
2. Incorrect clutch master cylinder
3. Internally leaking clutch master cylinder
3. Excessive expansion of the flexible clutch hydraulic hose
4. Incorrect clutch slave cylinder
5. Incorrectly mounted clutch slave cylinder
6. Internally leaking clutch slave cylinder
7. Incorrect, damaged or worn clutch throw-out lever or pivot ball
8. Damaged or excessively worn throw-out bearing
9. Damaged or excessively worn clutch cover
10.Partially delaminated clutch disk
11. Incorrect clutch release system hydraulic fluid
12. Incorrect transmission lubricant
2. Incorrect clutch master cylinder
3. Internally leaking clutch master cylinder
3. Excessive expansion of the flexible clutch hydraulic hose
4. Incorrect clutch slave cylinder
5. Incorrectly mounted clutch slave cylinder
6. Internally leaking clutch slave cylinder
7. Incorrect, damaged or worn clutch throw-out lever or pivot ball
8. Damaged or excessively worn throw-out bearing
9. Damaged or excessively worn clutch cover
10.Partially delaminated clutch disk
11. Incorrect clutch release system hydraulic fluid
12. Incorrect transmission lubricant
Having to "pump up" a hydraulic clutch linkage system before being able to engage a gear suggests that either the clutch is not being completely disengaged or that the clutch is not remaining completely disengaged long enough to make the shift.
The first step is to determine (a) whether or not the clutch is properly disengaging and (b) whether or not the clutch is remaining completely disengaged. With the engine NOT running (and the parking brake dis-engaged), put the transmission in first gear and fully depress / hold the clutch pedal. If you can initially easily roll the car forward / backward, then the clutch is completely disengaged and most of the possible causes can be eliminated. Continue to hold the clutch pedal fully depressed for 10-15 seconds; if you can still easily roll the car forward / backward, internal leakage in the master and slave cylinders can be eliminated.
If the clutch is not completely and persistently releasing, you need to determine why not and correct the cause(s). If the clutch release system is working correctly, then you probably need to look at the transmission.
Never say never, but the problem you described does not strike me as being a transmission issue.
Last edited:
My 2cents - if you are able, have someone push the pedal whilst you are under the car (safely supported of course) and see how much travel there is on the slave cylinder push rod, then whilst maintaining pressure on the pedal watch to see if the rod creeps back.
If there is little movement on the push rod then you might get by with adjustment (if you have an adjustable rod); if the rod initially moves then creeps back you have an internal fluid leak. Beyond these two basic steps any of the other faults already suggested should pinpoint the problem.
ps - it might also help if we knew how much travel off the floor the clutch pedal moves before the car begins to move.
If there is little movement on the push rod then you might get by with adjustment (if you have an adjustable rod); if the rod initially moves then creeps back you have an internal fluid leak. Beyond these two basic steps any of the other faults already suggested should pinpoint the problem.
ps - it might also help if we knew how much travel off the floor the clutch pedal moves before the car begins to move.
Nope, different department altogether.
Clutch issues are outside of the gearbox, nothing to do with the O/D; however you might want to change the oil back to a standard non additive oil to prevent future O/D problems.
As to 1/4 - 1/3 pedal travel, that's good.
So, on to the list of other suggested causes; I would start with a viewing of the slave push rod movement from underneath.
Clutch issues are outside of the gearbox, nothing to do with the O/D; however you might want to change the oil back to a standard non additive oil to prevent future O/D problems.
As to 1/4 - 1/3 pedal travel, that's good.
So, on to the list of other suggested causes; I would start with a viewing of the slave push rod movement from underneath.
From your original post one would assume that this was a situation that developed on a car that had been running fine for years. Little by little we learn it was possible a "botched installation", then later we learn it is a new transmission. And we still do not know what Series car.
Barry's list is a good list. It's easy to check item #5. The clutch slave should be mounted on the tranny side of the bell housing. - at least that is true for a SV, if that's what you have.
Barry's list is a good list. It's easy to check item #5. The clutch slave should be mounted on the tranny side of the bell housing. - at least that is true for a SV, if that's what you have.
It’s a S IV, had it for 4 years. The O/D gearbox was fitted right after I got the car. I would call it a rolling restoration, the clutch master and slave were fitted a couple of years back, the symptoms only started over the last few drives.
The car is only driven several weekends a year, I would say, the yearly mileage is no more than 100 miles or so.
I am located in Singapore, therefore it is a RHD.
The car is only driven several weekends a year, I would say, the yearly mileage is no more than 100 miles or so.
I am located in Singapore, therefore it is a RHD.
Barry
Diamond Level Sponsor
DanR
Diamond Level Sponsor
But I wouldn't. I would call that pumping the pedal. I have never experienced that with a clutch. An Alpine I had about twenty years ago had that I called an "autoclutch". Push the pedal down, snick it into low and and away you would go, with your foot on the clutch pedal and pedal to the metal. It was smooth, too.
Bill
Bill