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broke the rear bleeder, not good

miket

Donation Time
The rear bleeder broke when I tryed to unscrew it today. I had put wd40 on it. I put more on the brake line connector, but I think the chances of it coming loose are not good.

Can the rear cylinder be interchanged with an MGB unit or Triumph. If so I can pick it up locally and save a lot of time.

Has anyone had any luck drilling these out.

Even if I can, I'm better to spent the money an get new, but VB is soooo slow.

Mike
 

Ken Ellis

Donation Time
Mike,
You might try one of the square bolt removers from an auto parts store. The tip is smaller than 1/8 in. You can get left-hand drill bits, too, to try to drill it out.

If you're unhappy with fulfillment speed from VB, you might try one of the vendor/sponsors on our home page. CS even gives a discount for members.

(Also, remember to clean up good after your WD40, etc. so you don't get contamination.)

Ken
 

puff4

Platinum Level Sponsor
My advice, if you plan to keep the car a very long time (I've had my Alpine for almost 30 years now), is to buy a new set of wheel cylinders... then immediately send them off to White Post Restorations (or whoever) to bore them out and slip in a bronze liner... then have the pistons blued to inhibit corrosion (a good gun shop can do that for you), and put it all back together, using silver antisieze lubricant on the threads of the bleed and tubing nuts, on the tubing inside the tubing nut, and on the bolts attaching the cylinder to the backplate. You'll never worry about your wheel cylinders ever again.

If you really want to keep the ones you have, then, if you can get off the brake tubing nut, take off the cylinder and use a drill press and a proper drill press vise to drill out the bleed screw - don't even attempt this with a hand-held drill. If you can't get the tubing nut off, then cut the tubing, because that connection is toast no matter what happens - replace the tube with both nuts.

I know a lot of folks like to use left-handed drills, but the problem I've found with those it that they aren't readily available in a lot of sizes, so you have to make compromises - drilling a not large enough hole or too big a hole. Instead, I use right-handed number drills (not fractional) so that I can carefully go up a little bit at a time until I'm left with just a thin spiral of threads which I can then carefully pick out with a dental pick. The nice thing about a bleed screw is at least you already have a pre-drilled hole to center things up.

Having said, that, I still recommend the bronze sleeves whether you use your existing cylinders or new ones. They are *wonderful* and will indefinitely preserve the life of your brakes.

A couple of final notes: On tubing nuts, *always* use a proper flare-nut wrench, never an open-end wrench - this prevents crushing and/or rounding off the nut, as well as makes it easier to apply the proper force without slipping off and busting a knuckle. Also, when unscrewing any really stuck nut or screw, I find that *tightening* it just a bit, before you back it off, actually can break free things that ordinarily would not come loose.

cmanflare.jpg

Flare-Nut Wrenches
 

miket

Donation Time
Thanks for the advise.

I managed to crack the brake line fitting today (in other words it did give)with the correct wrench that I've had for years. But all this wasn't on my schedule for this weekend.

Since the line will come off, I should be able to get the cylinder off the car and have a look.

I agree with the idea of getting new cylinders. Just hadn't planned on that expense just yet. But the brakes were working fine when I got the car 4 years ago.
 
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