Brass vs bronze O rings

[SIVAllan]

I'm replacing the metal O rings between the oil cooler hose fitting and the oil filter base. I think for one of the hoses, the O ring has been compressed to the end of its usefulness for stopping leaks.

So far, no can find copper or brass O rings that are big enough.

Is bronze too hard for this use?

I did find some flat bronze washers that should fit, but am uncertain whether to use them.

I tried rubber O rings but they did not stop leakage.

Thank you.

Allan

 

[SIVAllan]

Came across an old base plate - will recycle the rings on it...

I assume they re copper, not brass or bronze.

Thanks.

allan

 

[jumpinjan]

Bronze is way too hard. I would think a soft metal like aluminum would be best. There are aluminum seals used on the water nipples & plugs on the head.
Jan

 

[SIVAllan]

Jan thanks!

Will try alum ones if the copper ones off an old base plate don't do the job.

Aluminum had not occurred to me .

Allan

 

[Bill Blue]

Allan, when reusing copper rings, consider heating them to a dull red and allow to cool. Copper work hardens pretty rapidly, heating anneals it and allows it to easily deform to fit its new location. Annealing copper is a one step (heat) operation, it does matter how it is cooled.

Bill

 

[SIVAllan]

Bill - thanks!

Slow going today - cold and wet.

Finally removed the fitting to the baseplate, and put on the replacement copper O ring.

I'll torch it briefly as suggested. I'm assuming the process works best with the O ring on the fitting (but off the car ) for annealing... ?

The copper O rings are interesting. They are not flat as I had thought, but have a small indent to the inner side of the ring, a tiny inner area all the way around. So I guess they are "sided" or "handed."

The inner area is mostly gone from age and use so that may be a contributing factor to leaks. The replacement is slightly better and not as crushed.

Since the copper O rings are "crush" rings, would it help to use two I wonder. The O rings are very thin.

Allan

 

[Bill Blue]

The copper ring will heat much faster if off the part. I'd hold something like a 1/4' bolt in a vise, loop the ring over it and heat with a propane torch. Will take only a few seconds of heat.

Have you stopped the head leakage?
Bill

 

[SIVAllan]

Ok, thanks, will heat in that fashion.

The "order of battle" is first to address the oil leak, 2nd to torque the intake manifold, third to retorque the head. (Fourth to go for a DRIVE!)

It may be tomorrow before the rain leaves; I'll wait on clear skies to do the head since I'm out doors (beneath a deck ). Right now the car is in addition under a tarp, which is Ok for working on the oil leak and intake manifold vacuum leak.

The head coolant leak is external so far as I know so hopefully a good retorque will solve that little issue and then I can do my first valve adjustment .

Allan

 

[Lee DeRamus saoca0404]

I can't remember ever annealing copper, but I have done iron, steel, and brass cartridge cases for bullet reloading. With all of these you must let them cool to room temperature, without cooling them with air or water. Dunking them in water will make them hard and brittle.
Lee

 

[Bill Blue]

I can't remember ever annealing copper, but I have done iron, steel, and brass cartridge cases for bullet reloading. With all of these you must let them cool to room temperature, without cooling them with air or water. Dunking them in water will make them hard and brittle.
Lee

Not copper. Makes no never mind how you cool it. In fact, old time annealing said to "plunge into water". Perhaps this was done to save time. Air cooling works fine.

Bill

 

[sunbeam74]

Try Pegasus Racing (find them online). They have BSP seal gaskets. You can also get new fittings, too.

Steve