Brakes Lights not working

[SeanP]

So Almost got rear-ended yesterday come to find out my brake lights are not functioning. I'm going to test the wiring tonight however I'm thinking it maybe the pressure switch located at the brake line distribution block in the engine bay. If it the pressure sending unit can we get replacements somewhere?

 

[Paul A]

So Almost got rear-ended yesterday come to find out my brake lights are not functioning. I'm going to test the wiring tonight however I'm thinking it maybe the pressure switch located at the brake line distribution block in the engine bay. If it the pressure sending unit can we get replacements somewhere?

Moss Motors

 

[65beam]

brakes

take a large wrench and smack the switch a couple times. smack it hard enough to loosen the contact inside. I do this almost every spring when I take the cars out of storage. it been working for several decades.

 

[SeanP]

Will do thanks!

take a large wrench and smack the switch a couple times. smack it hard enough to loosen the contact inside. I do this almost every spring when I take the cars out of storage. it been working for several decades.

 

[DanR]

One of our members has fabricated a brake light kit to resolve that very problem. I think it is Bill Blue.

DanR

 

[Bill Blue]

Sean's problem is making me reconsider making the kit. It is a safety issue.

The original kit contained the necessary switch, but I'd like to delete it. The switch is just an ordinary GM unit that was OE for over 30 years. They are readily available at prices ranging from three or four bucks up to 30. I used a cheapie from Autozone. It worked for me and I wanted to keep the price low. Some guys expressed disappointment. Expecting, it seems, a $15 switch in a $20 kit. Looking for input.

Any and all feedback is welcome. If I should go pound sand, I can do that.

Bill

 

[V6 JOSE]

Hi Sean,

Don´t fool with that old pressure sensing switch. It takes too much pressure to activate, which means that you are actually stopping before the stop lights light up. A travel switch is much better. I believe ALL new car manufacturers use them now, and have for years.

The best part about the travel switch, is that you can adjust it to where you just need to barely press the pedal, and the lights go on. You want the guy behind you to know as soon as you decide to stop. You have a very nice Alpine, and you sure don´t want for the old pressure sensing switch to quit working when you need it most. If it has quit working once, it will fail again, and you won´t know it till it´s too late. It IS a safety issue.

Jose

Will do thanks!

 

[SeanP]

Well still trying to tie down the actual issue. I would love to replace the pressure switch it already almost caused and accident.

I rapped on the pressure switch with no results, checked the fuses and it looked like the stop light switch 20 amp fuse was burnt so replaced it and still no brake lights.

The pressure switch is a simple ground switch correct? if I jumper between the two connections the brake lights should go on correct? If they don't then I have another issue.

I live alone and its been hard to trouble shoot this issue when the brake needs to be held down to test the system!

 

[DanR]

I need a Brake Light Kit!

Bill Blue, I'll take one for a starter maybe two for now!

 

[Paul A]

Sean's problem is making me reconsider making the kit. It is a safety issue.

The original kit contained the necessary switch, but I'd like to delete it. The switch is just an ordinary GM unit that was OE for over 30 years. They are readily available at prices ranging from three or four bucks up to 30. I used a cheapie from Autozone. It worked for me and I wanted to keep the price low. Some guys expressed disappointment. Expecting, it seems, a $15 switch in a $20 kit. Looking for input.

Any and all feedback is welcome. If I should go pound sand, I can do that.

Bill

I got a couple of your kits, Bill, and I am glad I did. Like you said, it is all about safety. Safety, dependability, reliability - same reason I developed the wiring kit.

Pete

 

[Tom H]

Sean said:

The pressure switch is a simple ground switch correct? if I jumper between the two connections the brake lights should go on correct? If they don't then I have another issue.

Yes, a simple Normally Open switch. Not sure why you would call it a "ground switch" . And yes, jumper across it to see if the lights come on. if so, it's a bad switch, if not there is a different problem.

Bill Blue, Love your kit! BUT, as you may remember the switch failed about 2 years and 8000 miles after I installed it. You were quick to give me a replacement , of a slightly different brand, at the 2012 Invasion. And I could pretty easily buy a replacement at an auto parts place. I would suggest supplying a better switch with your kit and raising the price. But the real value in your kit is the bracket. So either way, keep making them.

Tom

 

[DanR]

Mr Bill, I'll rely on your judgement on how to do the kit. With or wothout the switch.

I'll take two kits!

 

[SeanP]

ill be the first one to tell you i know little to nothing about electrical. I had some idea in my mind that it was on the ground side of the circuit. Anyway the whole car was rewired with a Kwik wire 8 circuit wiring harness. I replaced the fuse and jumped the switch and had lights then tried the pedal and also had lights for about 4 pedal pushes then snap and the fuse blew again. going to have to see where the short is coming from. Orders a nice test kit but if you guys have some advice or place to read about tracing a short I would appreciate it. Never done it before.

 

[kmathis]

Bill's brake light kit is great and quite easy to install, not sure which switch I have, but so far no problems.

Thanks, Bill!

 

[agmason54]

bum switch vs dead short..

I have never seen a Sunbeam brake light switchh fail. My Ford Exploder uses a simular set up but has no muffler clamp.I would call it a Rube Goldbwg device at best and would use hand signals before l would put one on my car even if it came with a free set of Micky Mouse ears.I have replaced two on my Ford.

 

[Tom H]

Sean, I am pretty sure that the only circuits in a SV Alpine that switches the ground side are the horn circuit and the wiper motor (and possibly the heater blower, can't be sure since that wiring is not on the diagram)

Earlier you replaced the fuse and still no brake lights. Now you bypassed the switch and the lights work. You pumped the pedal and the lights worked. ( I assume you reconnected the wires to the switch and removed your jumper for this). Then on the 5th or so pump the fuse blew again. All this says to me that the switch is the problem.

Here's what I would do. Replace the fuse. Pull both wires off the switch, and jumper the wires. I assume you will have lights. Leave them on for 5 min. That will assure that all the wires seem OK. Now pump the brake pedal as many times as you want. If the lights stay on and no fuse blows, you can be pretty sure the switch was the problem. If a fuse blows then look around the pedal for a loose wire that is affected by the movement of the pedal.

Tom

 

[SeanP]

thanks Tom
I used a Power Probe to test the wires at the sensor and the hot side had 12 volts. applied 12 volt to the other wire and had brake lights. So while the sensor had not failed apparently it was shorting out the fuse. Until a better replacement is available i will just replace the sensor. luckily Rick is having a swap meet today at Sunbeam Specialties.