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Battery clamp

Nick Farrow

Donation Time
Hi all

Can anyone tell me how the battery is supposed to be clamped down in a Series 3 ? At the moment my battery is just in the battery box and can move freely.

Cheers
Nick
 

65beam

Donation Time
clamp

alpines used a group 27 battery. there was a rectangular frame that set around the battery. it had brackets with rubber buffers on each end that wedged the frame in place to keep the battery from moving in the box. the box lid was on hinges and had one fastener to lock it. there was no actual clamp like we see today.
 

Nick Farrow

Donation Time
Hmm...interesting. All I have is a battery in a big hole. Sounds like I might have to put in a clamp of my own. Anyone had to do something similar?

Cheers
Nick
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
If I could suggest, a master switch is more convenient when you need to cut power at the source to do some work safely. You can work on it without messing about taking the battery out. In addition [and apols. to long-time forum members who've heard me beat this drum multiple times] it serves two other vital purposes:

1) Theft protection;
2) Prevention of the most common cause of fire in old vehicles - short circuits. I turn the switch off any time I leave Matilda for more than a couple of minutes. When I park her in the garage (which is under our bedrooms) it goes off, too.

As to 1), Whenever I leave Matilda while I'm shopping, etc., the key comes out (it just lifts out) and goes in my pocket, alongside the ignition key;

Re. 2), I was impelled to installing the switch when I was driving some 25 years ago and noticed Lucas Smoke emerging from under the dashboard. By a lucky chance, I had my tools with me and was able to get the negative (ground) terminal unbolted and removed in under a minute. Otherwise, I might have stood there, like one of our forum members, and watched my dear restored Matilda burn to the ground. An unfused line to the light switch had worn through the firewall grommet and grounded.

Some members have installed cutoff switches far away from the battery, which is - excuse be for being blunt - dumb. It needs to be right at the battery post. Otherwise you have feet of unfused and unswitched primary cable, capable of carrying 500 amps or more.

Pic showing the top of the switch that emerges from the battery lid and carpet, with key in and a nice chrome bezel that I found that fits well. I can reach around and turn the key off without leaving my seat.

 
Last edited:

Nick Farrow

Donation Time
nick,
I posted on photobucket a couple of photos of the battery hold down unit. http://s606.photobucket.com/albums/tt142/65beam/ they should be on page 2.

Brilliant, thanks for that! I'll keep an eye out on eBay for one but for the time being I'll have to use a more generic clamp. I'd be happy to leave it without a clamp but the MOT rules in the UK have apparently changed since last I had it done and batteries need to be clamped down firmly.

Cheers
Nick
 

Alpine Addict

Platinum Donor
Platinum Level Sponsor
I have a quick release terminal at the battery on both my cars. It was fitted after a wiring short burnt the wiring behind the dash. Luckily I was with the car at the time to prevent further damage.
 

Gitnrusty

Donation Time
Brilliant, thanks for that! I'll keep an eye out on eBay for one but for the time being I'll have to use a more generic clamp. I'd be happy to leave it without a clamp but the MOT rules in the UK have apparently changed since last I had it done and batteries need to be clamped down firmly.

Cheers
Nick

I'm surprised that MOT will not grandfather in original battery retention method.
Are you registered as a daily use car or classic (or whatever)?


Nickodell......I certainly agree with that battery cut off switch (indeed I have a couple to install on my projects) but can't tell from the photo just where in the car it's installed. Can you clarify for me?
 

DanR

Diamond Level Sponsor
Nick's idea is where I got the idea to do mine in my '67 SV.

I utilized the same type cut off but mounted it under the dash on the left hand side of the inner firewall. It is very neat and very handy to reach under the dash and turn on or off with out having to "be seen fumbling with something".

It is very well hidden and easily accessible.

Thanks Nick for the suggestion of the CutOff!
 

chard

Donation Time
Brilliant, thanks for that! I'll keep an eye out on eBay for one but for the time being I'll have to use a more generic clamp. I'd be happy to leave it without a clamp but the MOT rules in the UK have apparently changed since last I had it done and batteries need to be clamped down firmly.

Cheers
Nick

Hi I recently had an MOT, mine has the original system I think, 2 "L" shaped brackets fixed to the lid with self tappers. A bit of rubber stuck to the brackets holds the battery

I don't think its a very secure system and have considered upgrading. If yours are missing I think I would but in a more secure alternative.
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
In reply to three members:

Chuck: The switch is clamped to the negative post (top terminal-type battery) by a worm-drive clip. I tried other methods, but although a bit crude, the clip works fine. The negative (ground - sorry, Matilda, I mean "earth") is used because in the event of its coming lose and contacting the box interior, no problem (the earth lead is too short to allow it to reach the positive post.)

You have to make a hole in the battery box lid, and carpet, to allow the stem of the switch to emerge. This pic might show the location better:


Steve: Great, except what if an electrical short happens when you're not there?

DanR: With all respect, while your location is great as an antitheft device, please read the part in my original post about its being essential to locate the switch at the battery, not downstream of a heavy unswitched, unfused cable.
 

Nickodell

Donation Time
reminds me of an air raid ending.

Hmm. Having lived through the Blitz, hearing the Air Raid Warning siren give the "all clear" (a steady tone, as opposed to the warbling one of the "alert") was a relief after spending time in a dark, damp air raid shelter. My wife lived in Birmingham, which got a lot more bombing than we did, and for several months essentially lived in their shelter each night.

We live about four miles from the Limerick (PA.) nuclear generating station, and for a radius of some 10 miles around the plant, every mile, there are very large, megaphone-shaped speakers on poles, intended to give warning of an accident with actual or threatened radiation leak. The first Tuesday in each month, at 2pm, they sound a practice tone sounding exactly like the ones from the early 40s. Even 70 years later, and even though we know it's coming, it still makes the hair stand up on the back of our heads.
 
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