Alternate Low Profile 2150 Carb Mount

[Mike Armstrong]

I've had a few inquiries about my carb mount so I thought I would post some pics that I had taken when I made it.

I couldn't stand the look of the stock 'Tower of Babylon' looking carb mount and I wanted a lower profile not only to use the air cleaner I liked but just for general aesthetics too.

I ended up using two of the stock carb spacers. One that is bolted to the manifold, the second is used to mount the carb on and then both are bolted to the first. A total of the three carb base gaskets and eight bolts are used.

The carb mounting area on the stock manifold is angled forward to account for the engine normally setting in the engine bay with the back of the engine lower than the front, which then would level out the carb. The 2.8 in my Alpine sits level so the carb slants forward. Though this apparently hasn't been a problem for carburation, the air cleaner didn't look right slanted forward over a level engine so I ground off the air cleaner base till it leveled out when mounted on the carb.

https://goo.gl/photos/sfDVnwio2KSXz36Z6

 

[Mike Armstrong]

I've had several members Email me with questions before doing this modification so I wanted add to this thread.

The single spacer to manifold gasket, 5/8" carb spacer (2), and carb to spacer gasket (2), are all stock 1985 2.8 Ranger pieces.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=121159&cc=1137451&jnid=444&jpid=0

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=121334&cc=1137451&jnid=444&jpid=2

http://www.autozone.com/fuel-delive...carburetor-mounting-base-gasket/67598_0_1871/

Note that both the Fel-pro carb to spacer and Fel-pro 5/8" spacer have the same 60809 P/N. You can tell which one is which by the cost. The thin carb to spacer gasket is usually around $6 whereas the 5/8" carb spacer is usually around $20.

I used gasket sealer on both sides of each gasket.

The four bolts holding the carb to the 5/8" spacers are upside down to provide clearance from the top of the manifold and at least one of the valve cover bolt heads. These must to be in place as the first 5/8" spacer is mounted to the manifold.

Also, I waited overnight before mounting the actual carb onto the mod to allow time for the sealer to set making for a solid mount.

 

[DanR]

Neat-O!!

Like the breather. Looks really nice.

DanR

 

[Series6]

Nice work Mike.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Thanks guys.

 

[JR66]

Mike,

Thanks for info. I'm going to modify existing 2150 also and got the spacers today from RockAuto. Did you just drill & counterbore them to clear the bolt heads? What gasket sealer do you use on carb gaskets? Also do you have any advice on making the manual metering block? Hole size, screw thread etc.? The only info I have is the one posting of the white block by Martin. I have a hunch that yours is probably very nice since your photos show such neat work.

 

[Mike Armstrong]

Mike,

Thanks for info. I'm going to modify existing 2150 also and got the spacers today from RockAuto. Did you just drill & counterbore them to clear the bolt heads? What gasket sealer do you use on carb gaskets? Also do you have any advice on making the manual metering block? Hole size, screw thread etc.? The only info I have is the one posting of the white block by Martin. I have a hunch that yours is probably very nice since your photos show such neat work.

Hi Jon.

1) Yup, drill and counterbore to clear the bolt heads. Use the bolt holes in the spacer to manifold gasket to mark where to drill the bolt holes on the bottom spacer. Luckily I have a drill press and with everything clamped tightly in place the drilling was much more controlled and accurate. I first used an 1/8" bit, stacked both spacers, drilled through the bottom spacer and slightly into the top spacer (where you'll be countersinking for the bolt head) so everything is lined up.

When the spacers are oriented on top of each other with the 'TOP-FRONT' stamp up and forward, that keeps the solid side of the spacer on top (the bottom side of the spacer is hollowed out and just has thin paper in spots). For the bottom spacer, having the solid side on top give the bolts a solid surface to tighten down on. For the top spacer, having the hollow side on the bottom makes it easy to countersink a space for the bottom spacer head bolts. Just make sure the countersunk holes are deep enough so the bolt head doesn't interfere with the mating together of the two spacers.

I used Permatex Ultra Black Sealant. Make sure to have all 8 bolts in place when that first bottom spacer is bolted in place. Let that set up overnight, then put on the second spacer and secure the carb on top.

2) Martin's Manual Metering Block is exactly what I used.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/500837/1986-ford-ranger-regular-cab/

I found an inexpensive approx. 1/2" (thicker is even better) nylon cutting board. Use the Mixture Solenoid gasket for a template for tracing the outline and holes. I found that using a bench grinder I could get the outline shape nice and smooth. I bored out the large cavity in the block using a Dremel Tool and drill bits for the adjusting screw bolts. Some guys use a rubber gasket or springs to keep the adjusting screws from backing out from engine vibration but I found that after drilling the holes slightly small, when they were first screwed in the nylon allowed for nice and tight threads to be created so I didn't need anything to keep them from backing out.

Use the same Permatex sealant but be very careful not to use too much that would cause the sealant to be sqeezed into the cavity you bored out and interfere with its function.

Here's the thread for the metering block.

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/showthread.php?t=24514&highlight=Metering+block

Adjust the smaller Low Speed (at Idle) screw all the way in first, back it out slowly until you get the fastest rpm then back the carb throttle idle screw back down to idle speed. Mine ended up several turns out before I even saw any change in rpm. Adjust the larger High Speed (at 3000rpm) screw all the way in first, then slowly out to get the fastest rpm. Mine hit the sweet spot at only a turn or two out.