First , thanks for the replies regarding the starter dust cap. As it turns out, I've purchased a gear reduction starter . It does not protrude through the bell housing like the original, so I'm not going to worry about the dust cap. Looks like the gear is pushed into the flywheel rather than being pulled into it. Well ,I've installed it and got everything back together. That was challenging ! I turned the key and all I hear is a click coming from the starter area. My first thought was...Did I get a bad starter ? And do I have to go through all this again ? Or is there something else I should check ? Hopefully it's the latter. Any suggestions?
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'67 Series V gear reduction starter
- Thread starter BeachBeam
- Start date
Nickodell
Donation Time
It's sort of Good News/Bad News. Seems that a) your solenoid is OK but b) no juice is reaching the starter, or is reaching it but not getting inside and moving anything.
To confirm b) first remove the dissy HT lead (to prevent the engine from starting), then put a voltmeter between the input terminal on the starter and a good ground and have wifey turn the key. You should get at least 12v. If 12+ volts, there is either an internal fault in the starter (or the engine-to-frame ground strap is broken, disconnected or has a corroded connection). I bought a rebuilt starter some years ago that had exactly that problem. One would think that they would check them out before shipping them out.
To confirm a), (I assume the primary lead from battery to solenoid is ok, or you wouldn't get anything to work, like the lights) put a voltmeter between the output terminal on the solenoid (the one the heavy lead that goes to the starter is connected to) and a good ground. If no volts, the solenoid is faulty despite the click.
To confirm b) first remove the dissy HT lead (to prevent the engine from starting), then put a voltmeter between the input terminal on the starter and a good ground and have wifey turn the key. You should get at least 12v. If 12+ volts, there is either an internal fault in the starter (or the engine-to-frame ground strap is broken, disconnected or has a corroded connection). I bought a rebuilt starter some years ago that had exactly that problem. One would think that they would check them out before shipping them out.
To confirm a), (I assume the primary lead from battery to solenoid is ok, or you wouldn't get anything to work, like the lights) put a voltmeter between the output terminal on the solenoid (the one the heavy lead that goes to the starter is connected to) and a good ground. If no volts, the solenoid is faulty despite the click.
mikephillips
Donation Time
Or just bypass the solenoid by bridging the 2 heavy terminals with a large screwdriver blade, if the starter then fires up the solenoid is to blame.
George Coleman
Gold Level Sponsor
The gear reduction starter has a spad connector at the back of the starter, you need to run a wire from this point to the post were your heavy cable comes from the solenoid, this supplies the power to the rely on the starter! See the picture enclosed
start5.jpg (64.0 KB)
start5.jpg (64.0 KB)
mikephillips
Donation Time
I've never looked at one of this type. Is it like a pre engaged type starter with a solenoid and fork to engage the flywheel??
Since the fuse in my tester was bad , I was unable to test the circuit. So I brought the cable to an auto parts shop. It tested bad . Got a new one , put it on and connected the spade post to the main terminal. Click..AAArrgg ! Spoke with Stuart( the electrical man at Custom Spares/ Classic Garage where the starter came from-suggested by Rick at SS ) who said to connect the negative post on the battery to the engine , thus making sure of a good ground. I did. It spun ! I smiled ! I removed the temporary ground and tried jumping the solenoid terminals . It spun and I 'm still smiling. I believe a new solenoid is in order. Is a better ground in order too ? And if so, what do I do ? Thank each of you who responded. Because of this united effort there will soon be another " Beam " on the road .
Update... Well it starts, but there's a loud clacking noise that seems to be coming from the engine. It was rebuilt probably 10 years ago and has less than 2000 miles on it. When it runs ,. it runs like a top.It's been garaged and semi retired. I'm trying to bring it out of retirement. I haven't driven it for about a year.